1. Once you take the caliper off, Using an appropriate brake caliper piston spanner tool, slowly rotate the brake caliper piston clockwise while applying inward pressure to the brake caliper piston until the piston is fully seated in the brake caliper housing.
2. Ensure the notches in the brake caliper piston align correctly with the pins on the inner disc brake pad. NOTE: the inner brake pad has the wear sensor.

 

I have a 2014 Impala LTZ with an electric parking brake.

Once you take the caliper off, Using an appropriate brake caliper piston spanner tool, slowly rotate the brake caliper piston clockwise while applying inward pressure to the brake caliper piston until the piston is fully seated in the brake caliper housing.

While none of my Impalas have the rears with the rotating piston, my 07 Pontiac does. So I'm familiar with that feature. But what about the electric brake Jamn cites? I'd love to hear more about that.

Doug

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It's just a manual operated cable operating a lever on the caliper isn't it?

 

It's similar to that. Except that instead if a lever inside the car there is a toggle switch that controls an electric motor that pulls on the cables.

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Thanks for all of the advice. Just a couple of more questions: Can I assume that after retracting the piston and installing the brake pads, the parking brake will auto adjust just like the brake pedal does? Also, The tool kit I have has two tools to push the piston back into the caliper One turns clockwise while pushing in, and the other turns counter clockwise while pushing in. do I turn the piston clockwise while pushing in on both the right and left caliper? -- In regards to the sensor being on the inside pad,, I'll be using NAPA Adaptive One Brake pads. They're marked inner and outer due to different pad formulas for the inner pad and outer pad.

 

how many miles are on the car. i have 100K and the rears show half wear left. just put new fronts on last month. so i expect 150K out of the rears

i didnt know rears were different than other cars i did. but cant find a video on youtube of 2014 being done.

 

i didn't find a video but i found this site where the guy says clockwise on the front brakes to turn in the caliper pistons: Chevrolet Impala Front Brake Pads Replacement Guide - 2014 To 2018 Model Years - Picture Illustrated Automotive Maintenance DIY Instructions

the parts of that site i read seemed to make sense.

 

Thanx Joes74challenger. Thats a very good detailed write-up with video, but its for the front. I found a site that explains how to compress the rear calipers on a Malibu. The calipers look just like the ones on the Impala. You have to use a tool to compress while spinning the center of the piston clockwise. I'm going to give this a whirl this weekend. Hopefully all goes well.

 

44k on the car. The back pads look to have about 1/8th left. The front about the same, but they're howling while stopping hard, so I'll replace the front rotors as well.

 

I figured if the fronts were one way the rears may be the same. All in all id just slowly and carefully turn them and if the go in great, if they don't, then go the other way.


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The fronts don't have an e-brake so you just press in the caliper with a compression tool. The tool would obviously turn clockwise to compress. The rears have an emergency brake incorporated into the caliper so you have to actually use a special tool to spin the emergency brake insert while compressing the caliper.... Check out the following link. It'll help when you replace the rears.

 

wow i'm glad i found this thread. i have 150K on the rears and its time to replace them. I had no idea about this special tool. is that the only thing different that doing the fronts, which i did a while ago. i hope so because i have a bad history of working with parking brakes on some cars...jeep was nightmare with the pads

i see rock auto has the tool for 7 bucks. not bad.

 

The newer Impalas use the regular brake pads for the e-brake - there is no separate, dedicated e-brake shoe like the older Impalas. It's much easier than the older ones, but you'll still need a special tool to turn the rear brake pistons in (it's different than the fronts). I'm not sure if it's the same tool on the 9th gens as it is on the newer 8th gens though...

I'm sure someone with more details on the 9th gens will chime in though. I actually just bought a whole kit - it has dies for all of the different types of brake systems. They are relatively cheap on Ebay.

This is what I bought:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/21-pcs-Uni...s+Universal+Car+Auto+Wind+Back+Hand+Tool+Kit&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=m570.l1313

 

rockauto has the cube type tool and i think you use your own extension so id save the 12 bucks and just buy that vs the universal.

hope its as easy as the video above to turn

 

So:
Pads
Rotors
Caliper bolts (I always replace since so cheap)
Brake piston tool
Boots should be ok after just 4 years id hope
Did I forget anything? I have grease

normally i get through rock auto but amazon bit cheaper on some things and free ship

 

Wow! I started this thread well over a year ago. I'm already going to replace brake pads again this coming weekend. I used NAPA ADOs, and I'll use them again. They performed very well. Also with the grease, I put a very thin layer between the shim and the piston. That seemed to work well. Thanks for all the responses.

 

You went through a set of brakes in one year ? Wow! How many miles do you drive a year?

 

Pads last me about 30k. The aftermarket ADOs were no different than the stock. The only difference is that the ADOs seem to stop better....

 

You must be pretty hard on your brakes if you only get 30K out of them in a year or so's time.

I am at 30K (4 Years) now and pads still look great, will probably get 50K or 60K out of them.

 

so i'm lucky fronts lasted about 100 and rears 150 then fronts i buy OE, rears i dont this time

 

I think its also due to a lot of local driving - short trips with several starts and stops....

 

WM is still cheapest at 35 bucks for ACD 18A2733A rear rotors..10 bucks cheaper than amazon. i dont know why but they are always cheapest...not for my radiator hoses nor brakes themselves though

 

i HATE that darn torx screw on the rotors. took me a few minutes of playing before remembering i drilled out the old ones. then my cube caliper tool didnt work and i rent tool from autozone.



i buy new caliper bolts and sliders every time i do brakes but the head was a different size. is this normal? was raybestos i believe.


also when i put it all back together the caliper was not totally solid. it did wiggle a tad. should it be 100% solid. maybe i should replace with old pins?


i ran out of light but did get to do the other side and noticed the caliper before taking it off is rock solid. i did take it on a drive with just one side new around the block and had no issues. tomorrow ill finish drilling out that darn torx

 

None of that sounds right to me (about the caliper being loose and a different size head) - it almost sounds like it's the wrong kit...

Why do you need to drill out the torx screw?? Can't you just unscrew it? They really aren't needed - they are mainly there for assembly-line purposes, I believe.

 

no i can never unscrew the torx


ill switch back the caliper bolt to the old ones tomorrow. and not use the new ones on the other side

 

well its confirmed that i did indeed install the wrong pins on the LR .good news it was an ez fix and we are back to noise free thankfully didnt replace both sides and i did save the old