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No Power Steering or Stabilitrak

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65K views 33 replies 16 participants last post by  JaelenK  
#1 ·
So I have a 2014 Impala 2LT (45,000 miles) that has the Overkill Tune (91/93), Cold Air Intake and 80mm Throttle Body. Everything has been working great for the last 3-4 weeks (Other than slight surging at startup which Will said he can resolve) until the other day when I turned a corner and the "Service Stabilitrak" came up, ABS Light and No Power Steering.

I used the Autocal to see if I can read any codes and none come up. I was able to select "Clear DTC Codes" which I did even if nothing showed up and it resolved the issue TEMPORARILY. I started the car and got about one block away and it happened again.

I have been researching online as to what the problem could be and its driving me nuts. I have read that it can be a wheel speed sensor, a MegaFuse and possibly the throttle position sensor.

Looking to see if anyone has had this issue and what the problem could be. I know I can go to the dealer and have them scan it for $$ but trying to avoid this if possible. I emailed Will to see if he can help and am waiting to hear back from him. I'm thinking it may be the 80mm throttle body?? I may put the stock throttle body on to eliminate the Overkill one.....Thoughts?

1FastImpala
 
#2 ·
Besides the "no power steering" part, this sounds like an issue with the wheel speed sensor wiring. I just had to fix the same issue (it's a VERY common issue on these cars) on my 2012 at ~45k.

Each time this happens you also lose your power steering though??

The problem with the wheel speed sensors is that the wiring that goes to the hub is too short - so after turning the wheels enough, the wire inside the insulation breaks - and during turns, when the wiring gets pulled, the connection breaks.

If you normally have the happen when turning right, then it's an issue with the drivers side wiring. If you get it when turning left, it's the passenger side wiring.

This is, of course, assuming that it's the wiring... Unfortunately, there is no easy way to tell that the wiring is "bad" by just looking at it. In my case, when testing with a multimeter, I found that when I bent the wiring in a certain location (right by where it was secured to the frame of the car), the multimeter would go nuts - so that was a pretty clear sign that the wiring was the problem.

You can get replacement wheel speed sensor "pigtails" dirt cheap off of Ebay - just simply cut the old off and solder in the new one. Not very hard to do - and very inexpensive (~$25 for 2 pigtails).

Here is a link to the post I recently made about this, which includes some pictures of the wiring that you need to replace:

http://www.impalaforums.com/recent...t-mods-weekly-updates/572514-jt-s-2012-impala-lt-mod-thread-40.html#post2942562

There is also another post where I originally brought the issue up - let me see if I can find the link...

EDIT: Here it is:
http://www.impalaforums.com/showthread.php?t=1383297





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#3 ·
I lose the electronic power steering when this all happens. At low speeds it has no power steering but seems to be a little better the faster you go. I was going to swap out the throttle body thinking it might be the "Drive by Wire" causing the issue but do not want to go through the trouble if I don't have to. I actually just made an appt at the Chevy dealer to see if they can at least scan it for me. Since it is an ABS code I cannot scan it and their scanner should tell me exactly what sensor and/or problem...Hopefully!

1FastImpala
 
#5 ·
Well I was lucky enough to have a buddy with a scanner for the ABS. It showed code C0045 left wheel speed sensor. Looks like I won't be going to the dealer and can repair myself.. Now to order the part from RockAuto.
Please understand that a wheel speed sensor code can be caused by a broken/intermittent wire from the speed sensor.

I recommend jacking the car up, removing the (corresponding) wheel, and removing the wheel speed sensor wires from the loom and inspecting them for breaks and chafing.

I can't say for sure about the 2014's, but the gen 7 and gen 8 cars had front end ABS wiring that was susceptible to breaking. Mostly what I've seen are breaks at the tie downs - the plastic clips that hold the loom tend to pinch it and cause chafing and breaking of the inner wires at the tie downs.

If you buy new wheel bearings and then later discover that the problem is actually broken wires...well, you won't be the first person to make that mistake :)

Doug

(Are the 2014's gen 8 or gen 9?)

.
 
#7 ·
You know, I mistakenly thought that this was for an 8th gen 2014 (old body style), but it's actually for a 9th gen 2014 (new body style). I'm not sure if the 9th gens have the same wiring issues as the 8th gens (I would hope not, but...).

So maybe it really is a bad speed sensor and not the wiring.

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#10 · (Edited)
I wouldn't hold your breath for a recall, that's for sure - the issue has been present in the 8th gens for over 10 years and a recall was never issued! :) And from what Doug says above, it sounds like it was also an issue with the 7th gens too!

The 8th gen issue really is dangerous when it happens too - it makes it so the car will no longer accelerate - so you could be in the middle of pulling out into traffic and then you car not moving like it's supposed to!

Luckily, it's an inexpensive and easy fix - and it comes on gradually over time, so you do have some "warning" that there is an issue. But still can be dangerous when it happens the first time unexpectedly.

Hopefully, for the 9th gens, this is just an isolated issue and won't be a common problem...

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#14 ·
So after installing the new wheel speed sensor it still has the same problem. It was a 50/50 chance that it would solve the issue but now the only thing it could be is the Hub itself. After I pulled the wheel off you can see the corrosion from the salt, being that I live in the Midwest. I'm sure I can tackle the hub myself but at this point I just want the damn this fixed so I will be bringing it to the dealer. I'm sure if I spent some more time diagnosing the sensor itself I would have known it was the hub. Luckily the sensor only set me back $25.

1FastImpala
 
#15 ·
Confirmed today from the dealer that the hub was the issue. I was also informed by them that both front struts are leaking which surprised me a little bit. I of course told them not to replace them since I can do that myself knowing that they are leaking. Just need to plan on doing more repairs I guess!!

1FastImpala
 
#20 ·
i would clean them and then check for leaks again. It has come to my attention that some dealership have un ethical practices of spraying oil on shocks/struts. Many of my friends are previous dealership mechanics from gm to honda.
 
#18 ·
I blame cheap parts! :) I grew up in Pittsburgh, PA, which is known as the pothole capitol of the USA and never had to replace struts before 100k in any car I've ever owned.

I just think that they are using such cheap parts nowadays. Cars just seem so much more "disposable" now... Even things like hubs - I don't think that I've *ever* replaced a hub on any car I've owned. I blame cheap parts from China! I truly believe that the car manufacturers are "cheaping out" on the parts that you can't see. The 8th gens are the same way - it seems common to have to replace hubs before 75k! Lots and lots of cheap parts...

Uh-oh - you know that you're getting old when you start the "back in my day...." talk!

I think I'm officially "old" now. ;-)

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#19 · (Edited)
The sad part is they have no aftermarket struts available for the 9th gen cars that I have found. I have only seen the original OEM struts available therefore I will be holding off as long as I can until they come out with more options. Many people will say it doesn't matter but I think that the aftermarket KYB or Monroe struts are pretty good. I guess I will see how bad the "Drive" is in the next few weeks and months and may just end up getting the OEM ones.

1FastImpala
 
#21 ·
I am having the same issue with my 2014 Impala 3.6L I took it to the dealer and they told me that is was the Left Rear Wheel Bearing. They wanted 425.00 to fix it so I bought a wheel bearing from Rock Auto and did the replacement to only find that nothing was resolved. So I am guessing that my next thing to fix is going to be the speed sensor unless anyone else has any ideas on what else it could be.
 
#24 ·
comments and questions to your concerns.




Well i would like to know where you bought the parts at seeing i been trying to find a cold air intake for 2 years now and havent fount one yet can you give me both of the parts and where you got them? i have the same car and mine currently has 67000 and seems like i got the one with all the faults, for one when i got the car 2 years ago it was a little over 36000 miles so the bumper to bumper warranty was expired but my finance company through it is (thank god!) because not even a week things started up, the first one was the headlight went out so went to the part store and they told me for 1 bulb was 149.99!!! so i went and bought a whole kit with 4 light bulbs and changed the color to lightning blue for 170 (looks sweet) so i noticed the right side detection system was not working only the left the a few weeks later not even a month the left went out and then every-time i started it a message would pop up says to service the side detection system so i took it to the dealership explained to them and the car stayed for almost a month cause they were to dumb to listen to me i been working on cars for years and was a prototype tech for awhile so i knew that both sides needed to be replaced and instead of ordering both parts they ordered 1 then when the problem wasn't resolved they ordered the next fixed it finally and messed up my rear fascia that now has a gap on the right side cause it wont snap in and if i had to pay for the replacement and the rental car (a damn sonic!!) would have been 2000, but only costed me 100. So I was finally back on the road drove for a month or so more and one day the engine light popped up! the car was rough idling and wanting to stall at lights so i checked into it and fount out i needed to replace the purge valve on the intake when i did that i noticed the intake tube was ripped!!!! so fixed that problem then not even a week later it was back again this time was different thou only on the freeway it would pop up and say tighten gas cap well i read that the purge solenoid on the vapor canister should be replaced when the valve is (got the part but not dropping the tank at the moment) and i have a permanent code in my pcm, on to the next issue which was the same thing your talking about the abs/stabilink so lucky me i was working on the gm proto line at that time and scanned it with a computer and came back as right rear speed sensor, so had to order it and when i got it i put it on and the light continued to stay on along with the reduced power steering but if you noticed when that happens when you turn the car off the steering is fully functional. eventually it went off but only for a few then came back the off and stayed off until 2 days ago! well i don't have access to the computer scanner and the hand held wont pick up the issue so i'm throwing in the towel and taking it in i always said they try to hard on building these cars having a fully electronic power steering system is not foolproof but also disables the rear back up detection system and your traction control. ill give a update but i'm sure its a different side that needs to be replaced but i'm not going to replace them all to fix this.
 
#26 ·
Well i would like to know where you bought the parts at seeing i been trying to find a cold air intake for 2 years now and havent fount one yet can you give me both of the parts and where you got them?
Parts where all from here, as of recently, the cold air intake was removed from options. :: Overkill Motorsports ::

The owner of the site does this as a side job and is notoriously difficult to get ahold of him, best bet is facebook i think.
 
#27 ·
Just had this happen to me last night after inspecting there is a chunk missing out of my tone ring on the passenger rear I think that given the other three are still good they should not cut electric power steering I can see abs and stibilitrec just my .02. Started with checking sensor wires and they all looked good so went on further inspection and that's when I seen about 3/4 of an inch of the tone ring missing. Would be cool if this was serviceable instead of changing a otherwise perfectly good hub. They should also have some sort of cover on the rear ones to keep the elements out but is what it is hope this helps someone in the future
 
#28 ·
Hey guys. Hopefully someone got to the root of this issue. I have a 2014 Chevy impala 3.6 v.6. Coming from school I made a right turn, went down about a half a mile and the no power steering and service stabilitrak came on. my brother works at a dealership and ran a scan. It tells me left rear wheel sensor has an issue. We drove down the road while the scanner was attached we see that the rear left wheel wasn't responding as it should. So my next move is to stop at auto zone see if they even carry the sensor. I need it this fix tonight. If I can't do you guys think its safe to drive for one day.