I do not trust the oil life monitor system on any of my GM cars - and by other manufacturers. I change the oil and filter (or have it changed) when the oil life is between 30% - 40%.

GM reprogrammed the oil life monitor system in hundreds of thousands of their cars with the 3.6 V-6 because the oil life monitor system was too optimistic and was causing engine damage although the owners were following the monitor oil change schedule.

Oil and filters are cheap - engines and their repair are not.

 

Although I'm NOT retired yet (dream of the day!), I too ignore the oil life monitor and change mine at approximately 5k miles. I just don't trust the oil life monitor with the newer direct-injected engines (it contributed to oil-related issues on the previous generation LLT direct-injected 3.6L engine). Chevy has supposedly recalibrated it since then, but I still just don't trust it.

When I do go to reset the oil life monitor after changing my oil at ~5k miles, it's usually between 40%-50% though.

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Although I'm NOT retired yet (dream of the day!)...

LOL !!!

...I too ignore the oil life monitor and change mine at approximately 5k miles. I just don't trust the oil life monitor with the newer direct-injected engines (it contributed to oil-related issues on the previous generation LLT direct-injected 3.6L engine). Chevy has supposedly recalibrated it since then, but I still just don't trust it.

When I do go to reset the oil life monitor after changing my oil at ~5k miles, it's usually between 40%-50% though.

FWIW, I have trusted it up to now, with my gen 7 and 8 Impalas as well as my 99 Lumina and 07 G6. But, knowing what I've learned of the direct injection motors, I can see a reasonable justification for being doubtful, so changing the oil at 40% seems very reasonable.

That said, the warning comes on at 10% (on my cars, anyway) so the users will need to periodically interrogate their OLM's in order to ascertain the current oil life - it won't automatically pop up on the instrument cluster at 40%. So some pro-activity is required. (I wonder if changing that 10% threshold might be possible using a Tech2 or similar device?? )

Doug

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Yeah, honestly, I can't think of a valid reason not to add oil to the filter before installation - it can only help and certainly can't hurt anything... While not doing it may not cause a complete engine failure, I'm assuming that it could cause issues such as excessive oil usage and other non-catastrophic failures over the long term. But those are assumptions - not something I can say for sure is 100% accurate.

But again, why not do it?

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Yeah, honestly, I can't think of a valid reason not to add oil to the filter before installation - it can only help and certainly can't hurt anything... While not doing it may not cause a complete engine failure, I'm assuming that it could cause issues such as excessive oil usage and other non-catastrophic failures over the long term. But those are assumptions - not something I can say for sure is 100% accurate.

But again, why not do it?

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Sorry, but I have to disagree. If the filter needed to be pre-filled with oil, GM wouldn't have the filter side mounted and with their drivetrain warranty would mention it needing to be done. It would certainly be a challenge to fill the side mount filter then not have it run out trying to screw it on before much of it leaked out. The 2 later model Impals's I've owned both had side mount filters as did the past 4 cars I've owned before that.

I worked as both a dealer car mechanic and diesel truck mechanic. Neither recommended filling the oil filters first. I changed oil on many canister type oil filters, both car and truck and it would have been impossible to put any oil in the canister and not have it leak out til you tightened the bolt with the small gasket on the bottom.

On the truck side, the place I worked at had the largest fleet of trucks in the world next to the military. They also had the best preventative mantainance program of any fleet and followed it. They never recommended filling the oil filters and we had diesels with over 500k on them. We also had every kind of truck from vans to 18 wheelers, every brand. We did fill the fuel filters on the diesels as they have a closed system and air in it was a problem.


Sorry, just my opinion.

 

I used to just jump the firewall mounted solenoid on my '97 expedition as the "clear flood mode" always seems to be tricky for me to do on either that or my '13 impala. sometimes it would work, other times it would just start then redline instantly on both vehicles. In the impala I always run it for about 3 minutes or so from a cold start before changing to get oil up top and warm it slightly to get the filter ready to be removed, drain, replace fluid and filter and just start it w/o adding oil to the filter, I haven't heard any noise indicative of a dry start yet over three oil changes with the impala.. The expedition is long dead but the solenoid trick was always used with it for the 38k miles I had it before the head gasket failed at 303k miles.

 

The OLM does not measure anything to do with oil quality, it is a calculation designed to account for how the vehicle is used and cold starts etc.. Back in the 90s they had it dialed in on the LT1s so that it was technically OK, those who left it go till the light came on and then tested the oil said it was spent but not to the point of harming the engine. I would expect that to be the case on the 2008 as I am fairly sure those were still port injection.
You get into the newer direct injection engines and they are harder on oil and I think GM was hesitant to increase a maintenance frequency and tried to just use the Dexos spec to keep the oil change frequency where it was.

Personally on my truck(2005 Sierra) I buy whatever synthetic is on sale with premium filter at Advance Auto and hopefully catch it at 20% life remaining, figure since it has the OLM setup for regular not synthetic I am feeding it the 20% is going above and beyond GM recommended.
My wife's 2014 Impala if I see in the OnStar email it is at 30% I tell her to make an appointment.

My current car is a 2015 SS with under 11K miles and I intend to do the third change at the dealer in the next week or so but I figure it is just getting broken in, my commute is short and this is a LS3 that will be modified one day. I don't drive it too hard but I do enjoy it.

 

Being retired, my oci is Spring/Fall or 3-5k mi. I don't even check the olm except when I reset it. A lot of short trips, city driving. '12/'13 Impalas.

 

Also being retired, I don't hit the mileage interval so I change it once a year. Never look at the oil life monitor except to reset it. The longest I've ever let the oil go was 5000mi when I was using 5000mi oil. I've never used syn oil til now in over 40 years of driving and that's because the 2014 Impala requires it.

 

The 2014 Impala does not require syn (synthetic) oil. It requires an oil meeting the Dexos 1 specification, which is a semi-synthetic blend (but can also be synthetic).

 

Yeah, that would be nice if you could set to the "oil life warning" to whatever you wanted. I'm not aware of any way to do that, but I don't have a Tech 2 either.
@hatzie (our resident Tech 2 expert!) - any idea if that can be adjusted with a Tech 2?

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Expert I am not. LOL. I have one and I have played with it a bit.

The Tech 2 can adjust oil life % to whatever value you want. For certain procedures the ECM must be completely cleared. You should write down the previous oil life value and probably some other settings so you can re-enter it once you're done.

The GM Factory Shop Manual set is your best friend. It will tell many of the things you can do with the Tech 2.
While I'm on that subject... Don't pay outrageous prices for used well loved manuals from the manual mafia on evilbay.
I've seen 2009 3 volume dogeared and missing covers manual set on evilbay listed for $280.
You can have BRAND NEW all three volumes of the 2009 GM Impala service Manuals for $200 from Helm in 3 days. [http://www.helminc.com]
If an obviously well used complete set of FSM is over $75-$100 on your doorstep just say no and wait or buy em new from Helm.
In the shrink wrap or not wrapped but nearly new then the price goes up to $150 or maybe $175 on your doorstep but no more.
I just plain do not bid on single volumes of a multi-volume manual set.

 

i've never trusted it. i've been running mobile 1 15k oil to 8k miles with a fram 10k mile filter and never had an issue. on the wife's cruise i run it 6-8 and just change the paper filter at 3-4k mile intervals. just switched her over to penzoil platinum to see how it does...probly won't go more than 6k on it though. which is fine since it's 8 dollars cheaper than the mobile 1...

 

Wow guys thanks a lot for all the ideas. I was using Pennzoil Platinum but it burned about 2 quarts of that over the course of 8k miles. I am now using Pennzoil Gold (still Dexos approved), and of course Ive always been picky about using AcDelco oil filters on my GM cars. It hasn't burned a drop of that over 6k miles though. I sure wish it was an easier way to recalibrate it, but I keep a close check on things so I most likely won't miss it. The oil seems almost black when I check it cold, but when warm it's still a nice light brown color. I'll change it anyway. It's kind of confusing hahaha.


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I only use the OLM to prompt me when I've hit 7K and 14K miles.

I've always used Mobil 1 Gold Cap EP 5W-30, changing the filter and topping up at 7K, and changing oil and filter at 14K. I use Napa Gold filters.

It's less hassle and a little cheaper to just use the M1 EP for 14,000-ish rather than a dino oil and filter 3 times, and far better oil besides.

I do the chore, reset the OLM and log the date and the miles into my vehicle maintenance book.

I wish it would count down from 7,000. :laugh

 

I wouldn't go 14k without UOA to confirm it is working out OK. Mobil may say 15K miles is OK but they are making a generic statement, not based on your engine, your use, your conditions.

 

I completely agree - I wouldn't go anywhere near 14k miles between oil changes - *especially* on a direct-injected engine (not sure what car/engine you have).

You also have to remember that claims that manufacturers use for their products are usually"exaggerated" - and even then, only if they are used under "best case scenario" circumstances - which almost nobody qualifies for.

At the very most, I would go 7.5k miles between changes - even with full synthetic oil. It's a small price to pay for "peace of mind" - and it most certainly can't hurt - can only potentially help.

Personally, I wouldn't use synthetic blend oil - I would stick with full synthetic. I think that the synthetic blend recommendation from GM is used only so that they can reduce their "total cost of ownership" figures - not what is best for your engine.n It's more like a "bare minimum".

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I had an oil burning problem with Full Synthetic Mobil 1 5W30 I run Full Synthetic Shell Rotella T6 5W40 with 5K UOA. I change the filter at 5K intervals and the oil at 10K.

The low wear metals in the Blackstone UOA agrees that it's Kosher. I'm only loosing 1/2QT over 10K miles so far... It burned almost 2QTs in 5K before.

LS4 5.3L

 

Just changed my oil... I'm never EVER trusting the OLM again!! There was a lot of glittery dust in the old oil. Once I changed it, it started it up and I heard a loud rumble/knock noise from the bottom end. That went away after a few seconds but now there is a faint but sharp knocking noise around 1700-2200 rpm. This didn't happen last oil change. I have the 3500 V6 if that helps. Hope I didn't ruin my engine


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I'm curious - do you put oil into your new oil filter before installing it? I've always done this and was curious if most others do it. Yes, it *can* be a a little messy depending on the angle of the oil filter, but I'd rather waste a little oil than run my engine "dry" at first until the new oil filter fills up.

To me, it just makes sense that you'd want oil in there at the first startup...

On the other hand, I've seen others that never do this and never had any issues.

Just curious....

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When I worked for full service shop the only time my boss would tell me to pre-fill a filter was when its was like a huge diesel and the filter was like twice the size of a normal filter. I'm sure it is probably proper procedure and most engine builders would tell you to do it anyway haha

 

I've never pre filled the filter on any of my families cars. Never seen an issue as a result. Everything we have lasts to 180k miles or more.


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Yes I did fill the filter up with fresh oil. Always thought it would prevent dry start.


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I just change the oil and filter every 3000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. Easy to remember for me.

 

Everywhere I go is highway miles. Trip to even the grocery store is highway, 2 lane and 4 lane. I can't go anywhere that isn't highway driving; zero stop and go.

140 miles/day, each day of work, all over 55mph, mostly cruise set at 70 to work, foot into it 75-90 going home. No lights, one stop sign.

It got the '10 3.5L to 215K, and I think there was plenty of life left in it.

I don't recommend anyone do what I do; my situation is unique.

 

No need to apologize! We all have different "beliefs" about cars and their maintenance. To me, it just seems like it can't hurt to put some oil in the filter. Maybe it helps - maybe it doesn't - but if it's possible to put oil in the filter before installing (like it is with all of the cars I've owned, including the Impala), why not? It certainly can't hurt - and could possibly help. The more lubrication during startup, the better...

Regardless if it helps or not, you can't use GMs recommendations as the reason why not to do it. Lets face it, GM also recommends synthetic-blend oil even though full synthetic is better - so GM's recommendations are not always what's best for your car. Just as an example....

But again, I was just curious if others do it. It's something that I've always done since I first started doing my own oil changes many, many years ago and just seems like a simple thing to do - it definitely can't hurt. Potential "pros" with no "cons".

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^ The horizontally mounted filter on the '12+ LFX is a big "con", lol!!! Totally unnecessary. ^ Chevyguy3100, what brand filter? What brand/wt. oil? Only eng. knock I've ever experienced following an oil/filter change was on a Ford with a Fram (the orange can of doom). A Fram rep. came to the house and listened to several start-ups, gave me $650 and took the filter. Never heard a word back from them. Simply changed filter to a Motorcraft and the knock vanished. Put another 150-200k mi. on the Crown Vic and sold it to a nephew who eventually wrecked it. Valve placement/position on some filters may be to blame. Even some "higher-end" ones.

 

AcDelco PF61 and Pennzoil Gold 5W-30 Dexos

 

Far as the OLM I have a 2003 3.4l Impala rusting away in the yard with 235K miles I think, we bought it new and it was my wife's daily up till about a year ago. Got dealer quick lube changes at OLM most of it's life. I think the first few years she tried to have it done between 3-5K, before settling in on trusting the OLM. Car is easily the cheapest and most trouble free vehicle we have ever owned and there are no major mechanical issues with it now.

I understand that on the direct injected engines they had to change the OLM settings but generally the OLM is an adequate frequency so long as there isn't outside dirt contamination. It is pushing the limits but not exceeding.

 

If oil level is correct, dunno....

 

Personally, I change my oil every 7500-8000 miles, but due to the amount of highway driving I do, the OLM still reads about 20%. I run Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 or Royal Purple 5W30 with the Mobil 1 M1-212 oil filter (rated for 15k miles). I change oil and filter every time. The oil always comes out a darker shade than went it went in. In the case of the royal purple, just comes out a dark purple, but doesn't look harmful. The pennzoil comes out a dark brown, but still a bit gold, but in the future I may change the pennzoil around 25% to see if it comes out as a lighter shade.
I have a 2013 with the DI 3.6 and ~59k miles

 

I have had my 3.5L Impala now for about 14 months. I got it and had the oil changed soon after as the previous owners service records for the last oil change did not state the exact mileage but more likely it was around 4K and under 5K. After that change, the OLM went from more than 50% to 0% when I had a water pump issue. I have changed the oil 2 times and going for the 3rd soon. Try to shoot for 6 months and 5K to 6K in mileage. This last time though the engine must had been burning some small amount as I had to add a bit more than 1 Quart to it. OLM just went to 0% last week and I pulled out my log book and a bit over 6K in mileage in that 6 months time.