[rleehamn]

Thanks for the quick reply.

 

[CubSmurf]

Finally got around to changing out the blend motor. Wasn't too hard actually. Spent probably 25 minutes total, with 10 of that messing with the glove box door Was trying to see if it came all the way off, when I decided I probably had enough room. The hardest part was trying to get the second screw back in after the swap. Couldn't see the hole. So far, no clicking!! :beer:

 

[kcarlos2008]

Is this still the issue if it happens when I have the car turned off and it still clicks when I set the alarm. It even happens when I do not have the air on or have the fan activated. Only way I can get it to stop is the turn the air on and turn the fan to the max setting and then it still makes the noise for about 45 seconds before it stops. When the car is started the noise starts off on the passenger side but then moves to the middle of the dash. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Kawosa]

Blend/Recir actuator replacement

Well I see this is an ongoing embarrasment for the chevy design engineers. Youtube shows this clicking or popping noise on just about every chevy model including trucks.

I've had 2 of mine unplugged now for 6 months on my 09 Impala. I tore into the driver side and spent hours trying to figure how to get at it. Finally gave up and unplugged the harness. Then the passenger side started clicking so I disconnected it as well. Now that Winter is moving in I need to get back to it since there is no heat.

I'd feel a lot better about it if I could smack the holy crap out one of those yuppie engineers that put this contraption together. I can just imagine what the newly designed 2014 Impala will be like. More of this stupidity which means you never want to keep one past the warranty period. :bang:

No video will be made on this repair, it's going to be real ugly.

 

[CubSmurf]

Well I see this is an ongoing embarrasment for the chevy design engineers. Youtube shows this clicking or popping noise on just about every chevy model including trucks.

I've had 2 of mine unplugged now for 6 months on my 09 Impala. I tore into the driver side and spent hours trying to figure how to get at it. Finally gave up and unplugged the harness. Then the passenger side started clicking so I disconnected it as well. Now that Winter is moving in I need to get back to it since there is no heat.

I'd feel a lot better about it if I could smack the holy crap out one of those yuppie engineers that put this contraption together. I can just imagine what the newly designed 2014 Impala will be like. More of this stupidity which means you never want to keep one past the warranty period. :bang:

No video will be made on this repair, it's going to be real ugly.

You can add the engineer responsible for the battery placement to that list!!

 

[ChevroletCustomerService]

Kawosa & CubSmurf, please send me a private message anytime if you would like me to explore your next steps with you. Sending me the last eight of your VIN and a brief summary of your Impala's current status would be very helpful!

Best,

Katie
Chevrolet Customer Service

 

[plano-doug]

You can add the engineer responsible for the battery placement to that list!!

On the SS? For that model, there's no place else to put it. With the V8 crammed into a space for a V6, they had to make some compromises. Tucking the battery behind the headlight was one of them.

For the benefit of having a V8, I can deal with the inconvenience of the battery placement.

Of course, don't ask me that if I ever have to work on the accessory end of the motor - I might have changed my mind - there's 0 space there to do anything

Doug

.

 

[plano-doug]

Well I see this is an ongoing embarrasment for the chevy design engineers. Youtube shows this clicking or popping noise on just about every chevy model including trucks.

I've had 2 of mine unplugged now for 6 months on my 09 Impala. I tore into the driver side and spent hours trying to figure how to get at it. Finally gave up and unplugged the harness. Then the passenger side started clicking so I disconnected it as well. Now that Winter is moving in I need to get back to it since there is no heat.

I'd feel a lot better about it if I could smack the holy crap out one of those yuppie engineers that put this contraption together. I can just imagine what the newly designed 2014 Impala will be like. More of this stupidity which means you never want to keep one past the warranty period. :bang:

No video will be made on this repair, it's going to be real ugly.

I agree, this is a frustrating issue. I've replaced 3 of mine and somehow repaired the 4th. But, keep in mind, it's not just Chevy - I'm pretty sure all GM divisions use these same damper motors.

As for replacing them, I can't remember the exact socket used to do the repair, but, as I recall, an SAE socket fit best, rather than a metric. Get yourself a 1/4" screwdriver handle with the coil spring shaft. That along with a mix of 1/4" extensions helps a lot. Also, to see under the dash, I put a compact fluorescent bulb in my shop light. That way, I didn't have to worry about burning anything, including myself, while I was laying on my back trying to see under the dash.

HTH.

Doug

.

 

[LT08]

My daughter's 08 Impala is doing this now. She's only had it for a month.

 

[Tnoc]

I got mine fixed finally. It took several hundred trips in and out of the repair area under the glove box and under the steering wheel to replace the passenger side Air Recirculator Actuator and the driver side Air Temp Actuator. It was a truly good beer drinking experience.

I disconnected the POS battery terminal for the whole repair. Didn't try to reconnect till both actuators were replaced. Let it sit with the battery connected and key in run position for about 5 minutes. This allowed the relearn function to complete.

It is definitely a 5.5mm socket and the good fit was a blessing when trying to get the screws back in while in such a cramped position.

For the recirculator actuator I used a 1/4" Tee socket drive. There was only about 2 inches of clearance for the back screw. Actually the Tee drive and 5.5mm socket and a very short extension did the whole job.

The replacement actuators came from both Autozone and Advance Auto since the dealer had none in stock and wasn't sure which number was needed since the number on the bad actuator did not cross ref in his books. I thought that was very odd. :WTF: The Dorman 604-108 model for $36 is a perfect fit and is working fine so far.

Hope that helps you who are looking at this challenge. It's really a simple fix unless you are clostraphobic!:beer:

 

[kingnutin]

One quick note for others reading this, always disconnect the NEG battery terminal, not the POS. There is no difference as far as the electrical system is concerned, but when you disconnect the NEG, there is no risk of hitting the wrench on something and shorting out the battery through your hand.

 

[Tnoc]

One quick note for others reading this, always disconnect the NEG battery terminal, not the POS. There is no difference as far as the electrical system is concerned, but when you disconnect the NEG, there is no risk of hitting the wrench on something and shorting out the battery through your hand.

:sign12:This is partially wrong and I will explain why.

If you disconnect the negative battery terminal what you have is +12V potential applied to all devices on the auto that do not go through the ign switch. So now lets say I have the neg battery terminal disconnected and I short the wires on the actuator with my wrench while replacing it. With +12V on one wire and the other now at ground potential from the wrench, I have possibly created a miniscule current spike that could destroy the IC circuits.

Either disconnect the positive terminal or both but DO NOT disconnect only the negative terminal.

Now when you jump a vehicle you should always go with negative terminals first to reduce the possibility of a spark and battery explosion.

I hope this clears up the age old myth about always disconnecting the negative battery terminal. :toothy9:

 

[plano-doug]

So now lets say I have the neg battery terminal disconnected and I short the wires on the actuator with my wrench while replacing it. With +12V on one wire and the other now at ground potential from the wrench, I have possibly created a miniscule current spike that could destroy the IC circuits.

No. The low side is not at ground potential - it's floating because the negative terminal is open. There's no where for the current to go, there's no path back to the battery, so there's no way current can flow.

Doug

.

 

[kingnutin]

^ exactly, it's an open circuit, no amount of magic is going to change that.

 

[TxImpala89]

sounds like the same noise my impala is having :icon_eek:

ive had so much bad luck with this impala, door regulators are going out, clicking noise when switching to different modes on the A/C and even when i turn it off, etc..... :bang:

 

[Tnoc]

Yes as in current flowing from the battery you are correct. The circuit is open. But in the event stray capacitance builds up and you short the terminals back to the circuit, snap. Some call this static electricity but in effect, with the negative bettery terminal disconnected you have created millions of capacitors at various parts of the electronics. :dizzy:

 

[kingnutin]

So... If I were to cut your arm off, and then touch something with it, you would still feel it? I don't think electricity works quite the way you are saying...

 

[Tnoc]

No I don't mean that at all. And I can't say anything because I didn't believe it either till I learned the hard way. But ESD (electrostatic discharge) is very real when working with digital circuits and one of the best ways to prevent this from happening is to leave the ground circuits intact.

In fact if you check the Chevy service manual you'll see that the procedure includes removing the positive voltage source from the HVAC logic circuits. This actually serves 2 functions. It allows the logic memory to return to zero and keeps the the electrostatic build up at a minimum.

My first lesson was an expensive mother board in my home computer. I didn't feel a thing but I knew when I plugged it back that I had done damage.

Second was a computer in a 85 Voltswagen. About $800 unless your lucky enough to find one at the junk yard. This one I heard a faint snap when I touched one of the plug terminals with a screw driver, even with the negative battery terminal removed. This time I learned my lesson. ESD will cost you money! Keep the ground circuits intact if at all possible.

 

[kingnutin]

I see what you mean now, but thats not really a factor with jobs like this, only if you are going to be messing with fine circuitry. This is just to reset the system so the blend doors will learn their positions.

 

[prneigel]

Blend door actuator on my car clicking

Thank you soooo much for this post..My issue is on a 2006 Impala SS V-8.. I just kick over at about 65,000 miles and the issues are about to begin. First I had replace the oil sensor switch now this little issue can drive you crazy:bang:.. But thanks to this forum:wav: I feel a sense of new relief.. I just joined this forum..I'm in southern California and I just celebrated my 59,000 mile birthday...

Thank guys...Be blessed