Impala Forums banner

2007 Impala LT - Location of CENTER Blend door?

61K views 40 replies 24 participants last post by  sheila 
#1 ·
The "clicking has began":bang: Hey folks...My car is an 07 Impala LT with dual climate control. Recently when starting the car with the A/C on, the clicking would start behind the dashboard and last for about 60 seconds. The videos, diagrams, and posts that I have looked up appear to be for a blend door actuator behind the glove box. The noise from my car seems to be coming from behind the radio, NOT the glovebox. Can anyone confirm exactly where this 2nd blend door is behind the radio and what the necessary steps might be to getting at it? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!:eek:k3:
 
#4 ·
See if this helps. This is my video so if you have anymore questions either ask here or pm me. I usually check this board once a day.
That was extremely helpful!! Now I am confident to tackle it without ripping the dash apart. Given the odd angle, were you using a 1/4" drive with a straight extension to the socket or was it necessary to use a swivel/flexible extension? Giving it a shot on Wednesday. :eek:k3:

The screws are actually 5.5mm a 5mm is too small and 6mm is too large. If you have trouble finding a 5.5 then look for a Ford Ignition Module removal tool. It will be the 5.5mm. That is what I used to pull my neighbors passenger side actuator last Saturday out of his 06 Impala.

What you don't see in the video of the opened up actuator is the piece of plastic that houses the incoming wire terminals and hooks to the motor, inside part of it is a integrated circuit chip and that chip is what is causing the motor to continue to move when it is at its far stop. That in turns is what breaks the gears.

Sad that this is still a GM only part
Thank you for clarifying the size! :eek:k3:
 
#3 ·
The screws are actually 5.5mm a 5mm is too small and 6mm is too large. If you have trouble finding a 5.5 then look for a Ford Ignition Module removal tool. It will be the 5.5mm. That is what I used to pull my neighbors passenger side actuator last Saturday out of his 06 Impala.

What you don't see in the video of the opened up actuator is the piece of plastic that houses the incoming wire terminals and hooks to the motor, inside part of it is a integrated circuit chip and that chip is what is causing the motor to continue to move when it is at its far stop. That in turns is what breaks the gears.

Sad that this is still a GM only part.
 
#6 ·
UPDATE
Installed the new blend door actuator today. IMPSS07's video was a big help and 77Impala was dead on with the correct socket size of 5.5mm. Luckily Sears had one left! Took the actuator out in the Sears parking lot and it was off to the dealer. New blend door actuator was $47. The Service Mgr. advised me to disconnect the battery when installing the actuator and leave it disconnected for at least 10 minutes. He said this will allow the actuators to recalibrate themselves when the battery is hooked back up and the ignition on/car started. He stated that if the battery stays connected, the actuators would not recalibrate and could potentially throw off a code. I followed his instructions and everything works great! Sure is nice not going deaf for a minute when starting the car. Thanks again for the help!
 
#7 ·
Yeah I've never heard of the crap the dealer told you. I've changed 2 on my car and helped 20 or so others change that out and I'm 90% they didn't unhook the battery and I know I didn't unhook it and I've never had a code thrown.



Glad my video helped! I don't feel that anyone should have to pay $500+ for a $40 part and 2-3hours of your time.
 
#9 · (Edited)
My local Chevy dealer said that is why it is so expensive. He says they all get placed on the computer to clear codes and force a calibrate function prior to release. Of course that still didn't justify $700 for one actuator to me.

I replaced both of mine, driver side Temp/Blend and the passenger side Air recirculator (exactly as the video), with the pos term disconnected from battery. When I hooked it all up, it did just what they said it would do, relearn the positions. I watched the recirculator door open and close several times over a 3 minute period.

It may do this anyway if the code had been thrown but I didn't want to have to do all again so I took no chances. :dunno:

I am almost certain that Remote Start has something to do with this actuator failure routine. Both of mine went out right after a remote start. Wonder if anyone else can confirm or deny this?

I used a 1/4 inch Tee Socket wrench with short extension and 5.5mm socket. This worked great!
 
#38 ·
I replaced both of mine, driver side Temp/Blend and the passenger side Air recirculator (exactly as the video), with the pos term disconnected from battery. When I hooked it all up, it did just what they said it would do, relearn the positions. I watched the recirculator door open and close several times over a 3 minute period.
Are all of the actuators identical parts? I've looked the part up and can't find anything specifying which actuator it is (driver, passenger, etc). If I find the one that fits my car, will the one part work in any of those positions? Thanks!
 
#10 ·
Re: 5.5mm sockets

Lest anyone should get wrapped around the axle trying to find one of these unusual devices, keep in mind that 5.5mm is dang near exactly 7/32". 25.4 times 7/32 equals 5.56mm. The 0.06mm difference is negligible. It's about 2 thousandths of an inch.
...
FWIW, in the old days, lots of folks could eyeball the bolt/nut and know what size socket to grab. Nowadays, with the mix of metric and SAE fasteners being used, I just grab a handful of stuff from the tool box and keep trying until I get one that fits, or at least, one that fits good enough. Having removed and installed all four of my blend door actuators, I can promise that I never had to buy a 5.5mm socket, and never noticed any sloppy fit on the 7/32. YMMV.


Doug...hoping I haven't ruined anyone's on-going "smoke shifter" gag


.
 
#11 ·
I disagree! When holding the screw horizontal to install the actuator in tight quarters, it stays in the 5.5mm socket. This is not a time for loosey goosey. My suggestion is that if you own a later version Impala you may as well pick one up. You're more than likely going to need it.
 
#12 ·
Did you try a 7/32? The metric conversion is 5.556mm, I doubt you will notice ANY difference.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Joelmateo
#14 ·
Any chance on getting part #'s, and where I can find these? I did see Ebay, but what would these be searched for as, what's the name it?

I've got at least 2 of these that need to be replaced, and the clicking is driving me up a wall...
 
#15 ·
Mine started as well.

What i want to know is if i can just disconnect them and not use them ever. and if the vent will stay in the front position. Since i dont use my foot or window vent in arizona heat. I just need mine facing front.
 
#24 ·
The driver side blend actuator apparently quit on my '09 LTZ as only cold air blows out that side regardless of position of the left temperature wheel (dual zone system). The passenger side works properly.

However, I do not hear any clicking noises from the actuator, as I did when the recirculating door actuator failed. Could it be the left temperature control wheel at fault instead?

I cannot access the video posted here and I would like to ask this question question: Where is the blend actuator located for both driver and passenger side? If I am to tear anything apart, I might as well replace them both.
 
#25 ·
I have the middle one on the passenger side disconnected now. So far it has worked out ok in my climate. Disconnecting this one permanently closed the damper to outside air. This allows A/C and defrost to work normally however, it will not allow outside air for farts. I use the window for that.
 
#27 ·
Help plz! I have taken out my dash trying to find this actuator thats knocking. I have changed 2 on the passenger side and one on the driver but it still knocks seems to be coming from behind the radio.. How many of these things are there? And how do I get to it? Thx
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top