Stop by an autozone or similar parts house that offers free trouble code reading, that will at least point you in the direction of the problem, also you could buy a dongle from amazon like this one: www.amazon.com/dp/B00T5G53ZM/ref=sx...f_rd_t=301&pd_rd_w=wPbvo&pf_rd_i=dongle+obd2&pd_rd_r=RD66W9WGKDBJ3V6KP9V1&psc=1
then download an app called torque, with that you can get all sorts of info from your car including trouble codes, that way you don't have to deal with the parts house trying to sell you a part!

 

I appreciate the response - I didn't think of it as a traditional readable code for some reason. My dad has a laptop hookup so I will see if he can read it for me sometime within this week before he leaves out of town.

 

my guess is wheel speed sensor, they're popular to fail on these cars. more than likely on the front wheels, but the code will probably confirm my suspicions.

 

That was my first thought, too. In particular, the wiring to the sensor.

Doug

.

 

@spazmataz - did the Service Traction Control message initially pop up while you were making a sharp turn? Did the ABS kick in at all? It seems that most of the time when it's a speed sensor wiring issue the message pops up during a turn - and the ABS kicks in. In my case, it was very intermittent and the message usually went away rather quickly.

But I suppose the wire could be completely broke, which would make the message stay there at all times...

It's still safe to drive - but if I were you, I would disable Traction Control until you can get it fixed - just so it doesn't malfunction while driving (mine would come on during sharper bends and the ABS would kick in - could be dangerous in that scenario). You have to disable it each time you start the car though (it doesn't "remember" the setting). Button is next to the headlight control - underneath the interior light dimmer dial - I think it has "T/C" on the button with a line through it or something.

Sent from my Hi10 pro using Tapatalk

 

I believe it came on when I was doing a turn on a highway exit. It went off later as I drove down the highway, but it came on twice more (and I believe both times were during a turn scenario.) It isn't displayed right now so I can't have the code read if I am not mistaken, since there is no error present right now. I'll make sure to disable it as I drive to be safe though! I figured it was a gas pedal wire/sensor as that is what I kept finding online, and wanted to get some thoughts before I take it down to have it replaced. I really appreciate everyone's feedback!

 

Ok, then yeah, that sure does sound like the speed sensor wiring... The harness is VERY inexpensive and it's really easy to replace yourself if you can solder... Just need to cut the existing one and solder in the replacement. Not really a how-to, but here is a post and some pics from when I did mine:

[ame]http://www.impalaforums.com/showthread.php?p=2942562[/ame]

Sent from my Hi10 pro using Tapatalk

 

I agree with the wiring and not the actual speed sensors. I had to replace the wiring both sides about 2 years apart. there is probably an open. on my impala in the rain it never happened the wet must have bridged the juco Zaza

 

LOL. Sorry on my phone no way to correct..."the wet must have bridged the gap" just found out how to edit

 

Assuming the '08 is similar to the early 00's models as pertains to the wheel hub, if you're in a pinch you can get cheap hub assemblies off eBay and replace those for <$100. You'll need a hub nut wrench or whatever you want to call it (can use loan-a-tool from Autozone) as well as, I forget which size sockets, somewhere in the 23mm-25mm range. Torque wrench also highly recommended.



Now some will say not to use the cheap wheel hubs but it is what it is. The good ones probably run $180 apiece or so and the cheapies can run as cheap as $25.



It takes a little bit of labor but changing them isn't rocket science if I can do it in my driveway with a wheel hub wrench and ratchet set with the car propped up on a scissors jack.

 

My light comes on every time go from stop to go I have to accelerate slow so it doesn't hesitate in the light comes back on

 

I suspect an intermittent connection in one of the wires going to the wheel speed sensors on the front axles. When you release the brake, if there's any play in the ball joints or tie rod ends (or strut mounts) the steering knuckle can move a bit causing the wires to flex slightly. That in turn can cause a bad connection to open and close quickly. The computer senses that and turns the light on. The bad connection could be a chafed/broken wire in one of the harnesses to each hub, or it could be one of the connectors going bad at the ends of the harnesses.

How many miles on your car? Besides inspecting the wiring harnesses, I would check the front wheels for play.

Doug

.

 

I know it's been a while on this post, but I have an 06 SS and my light came on about 2 months ago. It went away in a day. It came back about a month ago and stayed. Now I have not seen where anyone posting that the check engine light blinks under torque. That is the perplexing thing I am finding. Any thoughts?

 

Blinking check engine light usually indicates a misfire...

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

Turning off traction control including stabilitrak in my 13, I don't know if anyone mentioned it and I'll assume its all the same, hold the T/C button for 3 seconds release when DIC says Traction or Stablitrak off. Each time the motor is killed you'd have to keep doing it. My ABS would particularly kick on when turning and the problem was that the ABS wire on the lower chassis had worn out and was shorting onto the frame, didn't matter what the weather was but more often on wet days. I put styrofoam pipe tubing in there and the problem went away, but I did have a Stablitrak code and a DIC service message. The stealership cleared it from the computer so I had never seen it the entire time I ran the car.

 

Hey, I know this post is a little old & I’m just coming across it so I have a few questions. - I have the 2011 Chevy Impala and the Traction Control, the “stabilitrak service” & My ABS is all on, on my dashboard. Is it an easy fix like a mechanic can do it or do think it’s better to go to the actual Chevy dealership and let them service it? Would that be more money?

 

1st thing I'd do is unplug the speed sensors at each wheel/hub and spray both plug ends with elec. contact cleaner then smear dielectric grease on boh and reconnect.

 

@beautyrush6195

Welcome to the forum!

The most common of the easy things to look at first are the brake fluid level, and the wheel speed sensors at all 4 wheels. Could be both are problems, based on your dash warning lights, its hard to know but easy to look.

The wheel speed sensors by nature have little plugs and wires that are exposed, and sometimes road debris or critters (or a shop mechanic) can pull off a plug or break a wire.

The wheel speed sensors are located behind each wheel. They are on the side opposite from the brake caliper. Right out in the open. Be gentle when you pull each wire to see if it's firmly connected. Then unplug to check for corrosion on the plug pins. Note they have a little snap-in hangar that sometimes breaks, leaving the sensor free to bounce around. Just get a GOOD QUALITY thick zip tie and tie the sensor back to its snap-in point WITHOUT REDUCING SLACK WIRE because suspension and especially steering need the slack.

These cars are low to the ground so it's easiest to lay eyes on it if you raise the car onto a jack stand and peek behind (or remove the wheel). I raise the front onto stands and look at both sides. Then same in back. If you can't do this then take it to a tire shop, their lift cost is far less. Bring a few 6" long zip ties that are THICK so if needed they will last for years. Cut off excess length.

This is such a common trouble that I look every year when I swap to/from studded tires. It's become a habit ever since I had the trouble.

If these two things don't fix it then the trouble is likely inside a wheel hub or in a module and things get tricky. Hubs can be swapped at home if you have the right tools. Parts store service manuals like Clymer show the steps. You're gonna want to buy the hubs at a local parts store or online at Rock because their system makes it easier to know you are ordering the correct parts. Do a search here for "wheel sensor" and "wheel hub" there must be prior pictorials around this joint.

 

Keeping this separate from my post a moment ago. If the fix does not also resolve the ABS dash warning light then post here in this thread again. Or look in a Clymer's shop manual for your model year for Troubleshooting ABS for the other potential solutions.

 

By any chance, did you change the gas pedal and did that fix your problem?

 

Welcome @Ray007

Unfortunately none of these members who were asking for help came back to cite their solution.

Best Practices:
First, clean debris from brake master cylinder and check fluid level plus notice if fluid is so black you cannot see thru it. Top off with correct brake fluid for your vehicle (indicated on master cylinder cap). Review a couple of DIY videos for tips about checking level including if yours has an accordion seal under lid (very important).

Second, look behind both front wheels (might lay on ground with flashlight if no jack/stands) shine light behind each wheel look fir a wire stretching across open air from vehicle to ~middle of back of wheel / hub. Depending on your year and assuming Impala, it might have a plug mi-way ir at wheel end at hub. Just look to see if wire is broken or unplugged. THEN LAY UNDER BACK WHEELS WHICH IS EASIER AND LOOK FOR SAME THINGS. ☆ If they all 4 look okay then you need to get the car up off the ground on jack stands and fiddle with the wires looking for damage, AND unplug each plug to clean out any corrosion then re-plug making sure to do all four.

Then with both of these things done, start car to see if errors disappear.

Separate: do you have an OBDII Scan tool in case neither of these solves it? A scan tool doesn't always code for specifics or at all. But a scan tool is likely to be helpful.

..

Note:
The gas pedal / TPS are less common than the above suggestions, and tend to present differently (hesitation on acceleration and similar). Some Impalas have TPS under hood at intake, others have TPS integrated into gas pedal.

..