Impala Forums banner

Serpentine Belt / While you're in there

3 reading
6.8K views 12 replies 3 participants last post by  metalmike187  
#1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone,

Seems like my good luck continues. I've noticed most mornings when I start my car I'm hearing a little bit of squeaking but it goes away in 45-60 seconds. It's not loud like a full on belt squeak but perhaps the very early stages of it. I figured I toss a new belt on there since I have no idea when the last time it was done. The belt itself doesn't look bad but it's inexpensive enough to toss one on and see if that helps.... or so I thought. With a little bit of research I have found out you have to support the engine and remove an engine mount to replace the serpentine belt. I don't know who's idea this was but wow it is not a good one.

So my question to you all is this. If I have to go through this nonsense, is there anything else I should consider replacing while I'm in there? I plan on doing the belt, idler, and tensioner at least. My car has 138,500 miles on it and I was considering doing the water pump as well since I have virtually no service history and the water pump isn't too expensive.

EDIT: I have the 3.6 LFX Engine
 
#4 ·
If the 3.6 is setup like the 3.5 was on the 2008 I had, you don't have to do anything like that. The only thing that needed doing was to unbolt the support bracket for the A/C line to allow the belt to pass through. It was just in the way and the belt couldn't clear it any other way. Nothing major.
 
#5 ·
This is the video I watched because I like to know what I'm getting into before I get into it. It doesn't look like there's a way to remove or reroute the belt with that bracket in the way. Again, I have no idea why they would design it like this considering next to oil and air filters, the belt is something that does need to be replaced from time to time.

 
#7 · (Edited)
I found zero information online on this topic except one 2014 3.6 V6 youtube but it was in a foreign language and it did not seem to begin at the beginning. I didn't find even a YouTube covering serpentine belt or water pump swap.

I don't have the service manual for 2012 and newer.

From the belt routing diagram, the belt is not captured behind a motor mount. And it makes no sense to require removing a motor mount for a belt swap. Roadside repair would be impossible. But on the other hand, the vacuum of info on this topic sure speaks volumes, so maybe it's accurate.

If it were me, I would dig deeper and confirm or deny. But if a lower motor mount does need to be removed then do water pump too.

If it's just a front-top motor BRACE then it's not a big deal to unbolt. Re-bolting requires a bar and some muscle but not much. Get a ~12" crowbar with a pointed tip on one end in order to grab the brace-bolt hole and align enough to get the bolt in.

Cheap is fine for this:

Image
 
#8 ·
We were typing same time. I think that might be the same vido I referenced.
 
#9 ·
I see what you mean and that is in no way like the 3.5 I had in my 2008. I'm sorry I can't be of more help, although this doesn't look like to crazy a job.
No it doesn't seem terrible but at the same time it blows my mind they would design it this way. Just like GrizChev said, this makes a roadside repair impossible. A belt replacement should be a 2-5 minute job not something like this.
I found zero information online on this topic except one 2014 3.6 V6 youtube but it was in a foreign language and it did not seem to begin at the beginning. I didn't find even a YouTube covering serpentine belt or water pump swap.

I don't have the service manual for 2012 and newer.

From the belt routing diagram, the belt is not captured behind a motor mount. And it makes no sense to require removing a motor mount for a belt swap. Roadside repair would be impossible. But on the other hand, the vacuum of info on this topic sure speaks volumes, so maybe it's accurate.

If it were me, I would dig deeper and confirm or deny. But if a lower motor mount does need to be removed then do water pump too.

If it's just a front-top motor BRACE then it's not a big deal to unbolt. Re-bolting requires a bar and some muscle but not much. Get a ~12" crowbar with a pointed tip on one end in order to grab the brace-bolt hole and align enough to get the bolt in.
Thanks for the confirmation on the lack of info. It does speak volumes. They don't have to make everything difficult...

I'll plan on doing a water pump as well. Regardless if it needs it, I hate repeating work. It looks like 6 bolts hold it in place according to RockAutos images.
 
#13 ·
No it doesn't seem terrible but at the same time it blows my mind they would design it this way. Just like GrizChev said, this makes a roadside repair impossible. A belt replacement should be a 2-5 minute job not something like this.

Thanks for the confirmation on the lack of info. It does speak volumes. They don't have to make everything difficult...

I'll plan on doing a water pump as well. Regardless if it needs it, I hate repeating work. It looks like 6 bolts hold it in place according to RockAutos images.
I agree 100%. My Trailblazer has the belt front and center, right behind a fan, fan clutch and shroud. Also making a roadside repair damn near impossible.
 
#10 ·
Could you confirm for me if a bottom MOTOR MOUNT or a top-front MOTOR BRACE needs to be removed? ☺
 
#12 ·
I know that water pump is tight and at least 1 bolt is obstructed. If it were me I would disassemble and remove not only the battery but everything else that reasonably can come off. Get some HARD PLASTIC gasket scrapers and go gentle with scraping. Inspect hoses for cracks and hose clamps too.

BTW I think we think alike on these kinds of things. I replaced every seal and gasket on my 2010 over about a year having it on stands in the garage. Except head gaskets because compression and leak-down proved very very good. Replaced water pump, alternator and starter, all the incandescent bulbs outside including complete headlight assemblies, and a couple inside the cabin. Also tensioner and serpentine belt. And a number of relays and fuses. It only has about 140k so for the most part it should be good for another 100k+.
 
This post has been deleted