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Power steering flush?

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6K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  GrizChev  
#1 ·
I’ve used a syphoning method to change the ps fluid. I really want a more complete method for this. Watching some yt videos it seems there are some similarities among power steering systems. One, the return path appears to be low pressure. Two, if this return connection is separated it seems possible to either pump or drain fluid continuously thereby replacing old w new fluid. Do people do this more complete fluid exchange or is the trouble not worth it? The baster or syphon method enables old fluid to be removed and new fluid added. Is this similar to changing transmission fluid in that each drain and fill one could assume that each time about 1/2 the total of fluid is replaced? Does the ps system circulate enough to keep sediment from building in the lowest points of ps system?
 
#2 ·
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Flush = drain. After looking I see the inlet and outlet of the ps cooler which on the v6 limited is by the plastic radiator drain plug. It has reinforced rubber tubing and a hose clamp on the inlet and outlet. This is where I’ll disconnect the reservoir side and drain. Hopefully a gallon will be enough fluid for replacement. I’m also hopeful that the combination of gravity and pump pressure will push the new fluid back into the recesses of the system. I’ll rely on that and the turning the wheels back and forth to accomplish this. On that pic 19 attaches to 15 w those small clamps which can be seen from the top. It appears I’ll wish I’d removed the plastic deflector that runs along the bottom. 👍🏻
 
#3 ·
One step in the plan has changed. I’ll take off the rack side which is the on on the right looking from above. I’ll attempt to control the gravitational flow using a vice grip on the reservoir side enabling me to add to the reservoir to keep the system air free. True some may enter but the lowest point will be able to drain any sediment (theoretically).
 
#4 · (Edited)
When I did mine, I first jacked up the front end to get the wheels off the ground. I removed the low pressure line from the reservoir and capped the nipple. I used a barbed union to attach the low pressure line to a length of 3/8" OD clear hose and put the other end in a drain pan.

I opened the reservoir cap and started to turn the wheel lock to lock. After 2 or 3 of these, I topped the reservoir with new fluid. I used Lubegard 23232 Power Steering Fluid. The benefit to this is it's clear in color and I was able to visually see the change. Repeated the lock to lock turning and topping off several times until the fluid ran out clean.

Reinstalled the low pressure line, topped off to the cold line, lowered the vehicle and went a few laps around the block, alternating lefts and rights. Topped off as needed (which wasn't much at all) and never had an issue since. 2 quarts was more than enough for a flush and to have some left if needed.

Didn't have to start the vehicle once during the process and the only spill was some dripping when removing and replacing the low pressure line.

Did the same procedure again a few weekends ago on my 2002 Trailblazer with the same results.
 
#6 ·
Hey hope all is well! I have a 2012 Impala 3.6 Lfx and im looking to do a full power steering flush. This car is in really great condition and was a one owner when i bought it with only 54k miles on it now and my fluid is pretty dark, not sure if its ever been done. I tried just sucking out the reservoir and refilling it and hoping the dirty would mix and then repeat a bunch of times but seems too lengthy and I'm more interested in the ways that were mentioned. I see the screenshots that are posted but off of the ps cooler which barb is the low pressure line where i would disconnect to drain it? also how does the fuild flow through the lines? Does ps fluid flow from around figure 14 or does the fluid enter in from around figure 21 from the reservoir? Thank you so Much!
 
#7 ·
If you want to save some frustration take the bottom front deflector off then remove the hose on the right (from the top). This will allow fluid to drain from the reservoir through the cooler on the bottom into a drain pan.
It holds maybe 1.5-2qts.
The remaining fluid would be in the rack. I didn’t go back and forth w the wheels to excise every drop. After replacing the tube and spring clamp, I did go back and forth to be sure no air was in there. Be sure to check it a few times in the coming few miles to be sure the level is good.
I got acdelco ps fluid from rock auto. I think it’s just mineral oil but I chose oe.
 
#8 ·
Mine is a 2010 3.5 so come summer I'll follow what @metalmike187 did on his 2008. Unless anyone has done something different that replaces more fluid with new, and can communicate the how-to as clearly as Mike did. This is a great thread.
 
#12 ·
Last September @metalmike187 mentioned 2 quarts was more than enough for a flush with some left for spare. I presume he meant his 2008 LT.

No mention of quantity in my 2010 owner manual, or in either Haynes service manual I have, covering 1995 to 2011.