You didn't state year and model of your car, but if it's an 8th gen (2006-2012), try checking the RAP fuse in the passenger floor fuse box. These symptoms sound like it may be a rap fuse (key stuck in ignition, etc). The RAP fuse is the red fuse all of the way in the upper left corner of the fuse box (behind the metal relays).

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Sorry my bad. It is an Impala 2006 LT.
Thanks for the help and I will check the RAP fuse.
What usually causes this fuse to blow?

 

my guess is too much Kanye West is being played in your car causes that fuse to blow. sorry i couldn't let the RAP reference slip by....i'll stop now lol

 

Kanye West yeah he is a problem but not mine.
I had to become a contortionist since I couldn't open the pass side door enough to get at the fuse box. I got the RAP 10a fuse out and holding a light behind it I can see it is good to go.
Back to square one as they say. How can I get the shifter button to release so I can get the car out of park? This is really strange that everything electrical is dead.

 

I saw on YouTube the way to fix the car not shifting from park. It's in the center console, have to replace a part in there. YouTube the issue Impala won't shift from park and your year. You should be able to find the video. Try this video,

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What's strange is that nothing electrical is working. I've heard of the unable to shift from park issue, but that shouldn't affect things like his radio and other electronics...

Very strange. Sure seems like some sort of power issue. Maybe a bad relay? He did mention a tick, tick, tick sound, which might be a relay going nuts...

I honestly think that the reason that he can't shift from park is electrical-related and not the nuetral safety switch issue. Was hoping is just just a RAP issue, but sounds like it's more "severe" than that. I think I'd start going down the relay avenue at this point.

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The problem is electrical and it is just like disconnecting the battery. So anything electrical is shut off. Which is why the key got locked in the switch and why the park button will not work either.
I was checking fuses and all were testing ok for continuity then when I tried removing the battery #2 60 a fuse the dang thing was very hard to remove as these fuses all are. The dang fuse flew when it came out and I heard it hit something plastic. I be darned if I could find where that fuse went. It is colored yellow so I would think I could see it but nope.
I went to the auto parts store to get another one and dang if I got the wrong one. It is to short so now another trip to the store. I did notice two battery fuses #1 and #2 both being 60a, I checked the #1 fuse and it checked okay. The #2 went flying so who knows if it was bad.
I have a bad feeling my problem isn't a fuse.

 

I wonder if the problem isn't the starter relay because when that relay is not working in my Silverado most of its electrical is dead also.

 

Update. I replaced both battery 60a fuses, the PWR/TRN relay because it had been clicking, and the starter relay. Wah Lah!!! Problem is gone and car is running. I am so glad it wasn't a more expensive repair. This repair cost me $40.
Thanks for all the input.

 

Glad to hear that you got it resolved!

Just curious - did you ever find that big 60A fuse that flew our of your hand? If not, you'll find it some day and it'll remind you of this nightmare.

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Update: Same problem happening again. No power what so ever but I do hear the same PWR/TRN relay clicking that I heard last time I had this problem. The car ran fine after replacing the relays but now here I am at 1st base again. I swapped out relays and I checked both battery 60 a fuses which checked good for continuity. I still have no electrical power at all. The battery shows over 12 v so it is good.
I don't understand what cleared last time that it then ran and now it all quit again. Replacing and swapping out relays didn't work this time. Could it be the ECM is the problem. Perhaps a connection problem at the ECM?
Where is the ECM or the BCM located on the car so I can check the connectors? I hate to tow the car to someone with electrical testing abilities but that might just be what I need to do. Back yard mechanics and untrained mechanics in electrical trouble shooting often cost more than taking it to a qualified repair shop. Oh geeze I don't want to think dealer but that might be the best option.
Good thing I have a back up vehicle.

 

I read that I should check for a good ground by touching v-meter + lead to + bat post and the negative to the motor. If good ground then should have 12 v. I checked and showing good ground.
I checked the small ATO fuses under the hood main fuse box and the fuses that should have had power were only showing around 5.94 volts. I think that should be reading 12v. The main battery big fuses are around 12v.
I again noticed the PWR/TRB relay was steady clicking away. I disconnected the neg battery cable for about a minute then connected again. Still nothing working.
What is causing the low 5.94v at the small fuses? Is the ECM or BCM bad causing that? I hate electrical work!

 

I am not 100% sure as it is hard to say what your problem could. However I know this is going to sound ODD but I think it could be your Ignition switch. IF you have a VM Maybe check your Wires at your Switch! It has been a while however from the V+ that your saying is coming from the fuses it could be the Ignition issue. Sadly it is hard to give a good answer on what the problem is with out the car being present.

Hope you find your fault soon

James

 

I found the problem. The battery cable that runs from the battery + terminal clamp to the fuse box was not making contact at the battery clamp. Sanded the eyelet to metal and reconnected. Have all powered up now. A lot of aggravation and time spent but at least it is fixed now.
Thanks for all the input.

 

I found the problem. The battery cable that runs from the battery + terminal clamp to the fuse box was not making contact at the battery clamp. Sanded the eyelet to metal and reconnected. Have all powered up now. A lot of aggravation and time spent but at least it is fixed now. Thanks for all the input.

Hey do you have number having same problem as you

 

At least it was a simple fix that didn't cost a trip to the shop! Glad you figured it out.


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