I've done this on my 2013. It's a gen older, but it's essentially the same process. You don't have to drop the subframe for the front sway bar, but the extra space does help a lot. I got my car up on jack stands and then used my floor jack to help support the subframe. The engine mounts should be enough to keep the engine from shifting too much, but you'll definitely want a jack to support the frame, jic. Lowering it 2" - 3" was enough for the 2013, hopefully the same for the 2014.
One thing I found that helped was adding a bit of dielectric grease around the bushings, both to the sway bar and to the metal straps that hold the bushings to the frame. Any neutral grease that doesn't eat rubber should work. Made it easier to get the straps in place and to let the sway bar move once all was tightened back down.
Also, you should tighten the bolts in this order:
1. Get the bushing strap bolts hand tight, but not torqued
2. Put the subframe back in place and torque to spec
3. Reattach the end links to the sway bars and and hand tighten, but not torqued
4. Do any final adjustments to the sway bar so it's centered between the struts
5. Torque the end links to spec
6. Torque the bushing strap bolts to spec
I would also make sure the sway bar link geometry is where it needs to be in relation to the struts. I replaced my rear sway bar with this
ZZPerformance one and these
adjustable links. I made the links the same length as the stock ones, but didn't account for how much bigger the zzp sway bar was from stock. So when I connected the links to the sway bar, the angle they sat at was around 15-20 degrees more shallow than before. That was enough to make the sway bar smack into the trunk when going over bumps and caused all kinds of clunking and scraping noises. Fortunately I took some pics before I started so I had a reference for what angle the links were supposed to be.