Dunno, but I changed the serpentine belt a while back on or 12 and like you say, do not see any reason to have to remove the idler or the engine mount unless they are somehow physically in the way. As best as I can recall it looked like the alternator should not have been much trouble at all to get to.

Guessing by your posting that you are needing to change yours? If so and there is anything out of the ordinary do a write up for us.

 

Ok, thanks. I don't really *need* to replace mine, but I've always had flickering interior lights if car is running and idle. And I came across a *brand new* 170amp AC-Delco alternator for $70 shipped on Ebay (stock is 150amp). So I figured that I'd try replacing the alternator since I suspect the issue is the voltage regulator inside the alternator (have to replace the alternator to replace the voltage regulator). Plus, with my added amps and electronics, I figured the extra 20amps will be useful (the 170amp is the one used in police impalas).

I haven't looked closely, but I just got the alternator today, so I may investigate further this weekend. It does look easy though.... I couldn't pass it up for $60 shipped (normally $200+ easy).

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If you’re running amps, make sure to do the ‘big 3’ upgrade. That too will greatly improve your voltage for your car. I always use 1/0 awg ofc wire for my big 3 upgrades. It is definitely worth doing.


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For reference here’s what it will look like

Run a wire from alternator to battery (+)

Run a wire from engine block to ground (-)

Run a wire from ground to battery (-)

Do not remove any existing factory wiring. This is just adding to it.

 

I'm running VERY small amps - not really interested in doing the "big 3" upgrade. At this point, I don't even have a single wire running to my battery for my audio/video gear, and I like it that way.

Here is what I have and how it's powered:
- Rosen GM1010 Plug-and-Play DVD/Navigation head-unit (powered via stock radio connections)
- Alpine KTP-445U class-D amp (45Wx4 RMS) for the door/rear-deck speakers (designed to get power from head-unit power wire, which is what I did)
- Pioneer TS-WH500A under-the-seat powered subwoofer (50W RMS / 150W peak) - designed to get power from a 10amp (or greater) fuse via a fuse tap, which is what I did)

With this stuff, I never get dimming headlights or anything like that. I actually specifically chose the Alpine amp so that I *didn't* have to run wiring to the battery - and really, I made sure the powered sub was the same way. I'd really prefer not to have to mess with 0 gauge wiring and all of that stuff. As it stands, my current setup gets louder than I need and sounds fantastic, so I'm happy with everything as-is. Hell, I'm still even using all of the stock speaker wires!

Amp is installed right below the head-unit, under the center console (it's the size of a red brick)
Powered sub is obviously installed under the seat (passenger seat)
I also have some headrest monitors that get their power via the RAP fuse (very low power devices)

Since the fuses that I tapped for both the powered sub and the headrest monitors are right in the passenger footwell fuse box, everything is very close together - makes the install VERY simple and VERY easy. Didn't have to run any wires to my trunk or engine bay or anything like that. Uses *zero* trunk space as well.

I'm mainly considering replacing the alternator simply because my interior lights flicker - only when the car is idling (they don't flicker when the car is not running) - and I suspect that it's the voltage regulator inside the alternator. They flicker the same regardless of what is powered on. I just figured that if i'm going to replace the alternator, I might as well "upgrade" it to the 170amp version at the same time - that's all. Probably don't even need the extra amps - but can't hurt...

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Not many people go small with amps lol

Do your lights flicker when your stereo is off??


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Yes, the lights flicker the same regardless of what is powered on/off. It did this before I even added any aftermarket gear, so it's definitely not being caused by any of the audio/video gear.

That little 45Wx4 Alpine amp does an AWESOME job. I like loud music and it's more than enough for me. And the little sub that I just added really helped the bottom end (more than I was expecting). It's amazing what these little boxes can do!

I'm not after the type of bass that drives the neighbors crazy or rattles every bolt in the car - just good sounding music that is plenty loud for me *inside* the car. And like I said, it was all super easy to install at the same time. Couldn't be happier.

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Well for those who want the same feel. Post a thread on it. It’d be cool to see what u did so people that don’t have a big budget or even want to rattle their nose hairs can get and be happy


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Yeah, I have documented most of the stuff, but it's "here and there" throughout my mod thread and/or other threads. I probably should put it all in a single "budget build" thread though - that's a great idea. Like I said, since I didn't need to run any special power wires or even new speaker wires, it's a VERY simple setup. Took me about an hour total to add the sub and most of that time was dis-assembly and re-assembly of the dash and console. Actually running all of the wiring for the sub took about 15-20 minutes, if that.

For what I have invested and how easy the install was, it's pretty damn loud and sounds great - the sub really put some polish on the overall sound. It's rare that I can turn my head-unit up past the halfway-point and like I said, I love loud music - and at my age, from always listening to loud music my whole life, my hearing isn't the best either.

Obviously, it's not going to compare to a multi-thousand dollar, dual 12-inch sub, 1000's of watts setup, but for what it is, what it cost and the ease of installation, I think that the vast majority would be thrilled with it.

 

Agreed taking a set up from a 50 watt total to a 200-300 watt total is a huge improvement


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Wouldn't any alternator upgrade require some upgraded wiring?

 

I don't believe the wiring is any different between the 150amp and 170amp alternators - I know that the connectors are the same and that there is only a single part number listed for the wiring harnesses in the parts manual (not separate parts for civilian and police Impalas).

I guess I'll find out soon enough.

 

Replaced the alternator in my 2012 LT today and all went well. Probably took me about an hour and half, but I'm sure you could do it quicker if you have organized tools, etc.

Pretty much followed the steps in the OP with a few exceptions:

1. I didn't remove the front engine mount strut. I was afraid of the holes stripping where the mount strut "mounts" (like they sometimes do with the braces).
2. I removed the battery instead - this gave me room to pull the alternator out easily from the side (towards the passenger side).
3. Went pretty smooth. The electrical connector on the new alternator was in a slightly different location and the wiring harness from the car-side *barely* reached it - but it worked out fine.
4. You have to remove the Drive Belt Idler Pulley because the bolt that is used to secure it goes through a mounting hole on the alternator (the bolt for the idler pulley also secures the alternator in the "back").

As to whether or not it solved the interior lights flicker... Drum roll, please......
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.
.
.
.
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YES - it *did* seem to fix it!! I didn't notice *any* flickering of the interior lights at all (was pretty constant before).

Made my day.

I'll let you know if anything changes regarding the flickering... But I have a feeling I'll be fine now.

I didn't take any pictures along the way, but I'll try and put together a write up using some pictures from my service manual (shh, don't tell anyone). But if I can do, anyone can do it.

 

As to whether or not it solved the interior lights flicker... Drum roll, please......
.
.
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YES - it *did* seem to fix it!! I didn't notice *any* flickering of the interior lights at all (was pretty constant before).

Made my day.

I'll let you know if anything changes regarding the flickering... But I have a feeling I'll be fine now.

That's good news. Thanks for the update.

Did you keep the old alternator? Or turn it in for the core charge? I was thinking it may be worth hanging on to. My guess is that all it needs is a new voltage regulator.

Doug

.

 

I still have the alternator. I got a brand new (NOT remanufactured) AC-Delco 170amp alternator for $70 shipped on Ebay, so no core charge or anything - old one is mine to keep.

Is it easy to replace the voltage regulator? I'm sure that is all that's wrong with it. Has 60k miles on it.

 

The first and only one I ever rebuilt was on my 81 Buick Skylark (x body). That may well have been my first ever bonafide car repair I had to buy my first metric tools, a couple of wrenches along with 14 and 15mm sockets (all of which I recently touched in my tool box ).

The funny thing was that, while I needed the metric tools to get the alternator out, once out, because it was a pre-metric design, SAE tools were needed to disassemble it

Back then, repair parts were readily available at parts stores. But nowadays, they're more scarce - I think most folks just replace the entire alternator, often with a rebuilt unit, hence the parts stores don't carry much for rebuilding. A recent hunt showed me the parts are still available, but mainly via the web / mail-order .

Anyway, as I recall, the regulator is in the back end of the alternator. You shouldn't need to completely disassemble it, but it's been a while. I can't find any rebuild info in my manuals, either. I did find lots of rebuild kits and some videos on Google just now, for what that's worth

One thing I'm curious about is how yours would test out at a parts store. If you have a store you frequent that would test it for you, I'd be curious what their machine identifies about it. That is, if the tester can give any additional info beyond "bad alternator". If it's too much trouble, I understand.

Either way, it's good you can keep it in case you need it or want to try fixing it.

Doug

.

 

Yeah, I was under the impression that the voltage regulators weren't even replaceable on these newer alternators (unlike the older alternators where the voltage regulator was replaceable). Well, I guess *everything* can be replaced, but at least not easily... Could be wrong though.

Sure, I might as well take it to AutoZone or something and have them test it - I'd be curious what they say too. I actually have a battery and alternator tester, but I never ever tested it like a dummy (kind of forgot that I bought it!). Should have done that before I removed it. Really wasn't planning on replacing it, but stumbled across that brand new $70 170amp alternator and couldn't pass it up.

I''ll let you know what I find out when I have it tested.

 

Eh, I wouldn’t keep it lol. Just more crap laying around. And if this one dies I wouldn’t think you’d be replacing it with the lesser powered one (even if u did fix it)

If it were me I’d just take it to an auto parts store and donate it lol. But that’s just me


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Hmm, I may have spoken too soon... I went down the street to get some food last night and when I got home, I again checked for flickering interior lights by opening my door while idling.. I did see a little flicker. Didn't seem quite as bad, but was still there.

So I just used my handy-dandy battery/charging system tester to do a battery test and it's telling me to replace the battery... Here is what it shows:

Right now, I'm charging the battery with my battery charger. Maybe the old alternator was damaging my batteries? Although, the battery *is* probably about 3 years old... However, this battery tester is actually decent - if it's a good battery and just has a low charge, it will tell you that. So I'm assuming that it's saying to replace it based on the "Health" and the maybe the internal resistance values?

The funny part is that this same battery charger told me to replace the battery in the LaCrosse - and I ignored it. About 2 or 3 weeks later, the LaCrosse was DOA and needed a new battery.

I may just go and get a new battery so that I'm starting off with a new alternator and a new battery...

Any thoughts/input?

 

i'd have the local auto parts store check it. if both say it's bad then i'd replace it. however if you top it off and in a couple of days/uses test it again to see it still says bad then i'd replace it.

i say replace in these circumstances so it doesn't strand you somewhere unexpectedly, or mess with the new alternator you're installing/just installed.

 

Yeah, I'm leaning towards just replacing it... I just checked and it's almost 4 years old - and I never realized it, but it's a pretty low CCA battery (AC-Delco "Professional" battery) - only 660cca, whereas a Duralast Gold is 800cca. Especially since i just put a brand new alternator in... At least that way I know I'm starting with known-good battery/alternator. Then, if I still have the flickering issue, I know that it's either that little current sensor (about $10) or the wiring (maybe a bad ground somewhere?).

Damn - should have tested the battery yesterday so that I could have replaced it while replacing the alternator! Now I have to fight the battery again to replace it (but would rather do it myself than have an AutoZone guy do it and end up breaking something else in the process).

Curious what others think too...

 

^ JT, if you're a Costco member, or have access to someone's card, you can get an Interstate group#34 with 800cca and 1000ca. for $85 with exchange (core). 42mo. free replacement. I recently bought 2 for my '12/'13's.

 

Damn - that's a great deal! Thanks for mentioning it. Unfortunately, there are no Costco's close to me and I kind of want to buy from somewhere that is very close for warranty replacement reasons. I was thinking about an Optima Redtop, but have been reading that they're not what they used to be - and the warranty isn't even as good as the AutoZone Gold warranty (3 year free replacement warranty and 5 year pro-rated warranty) - and AutoZone is very close. Kind of hard to pass that up...

So after charging the battery, I still get the flickering interior lights - and the battery tester still says to replace the battery (which I expected):

But in all honesty, since the flickering/pulsating only occurs while the car is idling, I can't imagine that a battery will ever fix that since when the car is running, the power is coming from the alternator... So regardless of whether or not I replace the battery, I'm pretty sure that I'll still have the flickering interior lights.

A few more details - the interior lights flicker regardless of whether or not the radio or headlights are on. If I increase the RPM's just slightly (1k, for example), the flickering stops. Only while at idle (about 680rpm)... And only seems to affect the mirror lights, dome light and visor lights - radio lights, door lock/window button lights, etc do not flicker at all.

I'm thinking that is has to be something else... I wonder if a "bad" current sensor could cause this (that little black thing on the negative battery cable)? I can get one of those for $9 on Ebay - anyone think that is worth a shot? Although since it only affects some of the interior lights, it seems to be tied to a single circuit... Maybe just a loose/bad ground for that circuit - but then it would do the same thing when the car isn't running if that were the case... Will probably never figure this one out.

I'll probably replace the battery either way, just as a "maintenance" item, but just not thinking that is related to the flickering lights issue...

 

Nobody else has noticed this flickering in their 8th gen?

I've noticed it before and wrote it off thinking thats just how the electrical system behaves.

I noticed that the voltage in my car doesn't stay a steady 13.7-14.4, in my case it sometimes will dip down into the high 12's or low 13's. If I bump my stereo at it's loudest, the voltage seems to stay in the higher areas and doesn't seem to fluctuate.

I guess what I'm getting at is, to me it seemed like the car doesn't keep the voltage at it's highest level all the time until there is a demand on the electrical system in which at that point it regulates the voltage back up to a more acceptable level. This is all speculation and probably totally wrong.

In my case I've pretty much noticed my lights will flicker when the voltage goes down and I've noticed this happening pretty much only at stop lights or when the car is idling.

Also, if your current battery is 3-4 years old it definitely is probably on it's way out, might was well try to get one now if you can afford it. Mine crapped out on me earlier this year and was the same age as yours, was a total surprise and luckily it was my day off so I was able to run a get a replacement.

 

I've asked others before and they swore that their interior lights didn't flicker at all at idle... So I'm assuming that it's not normal - unless others just don't notice it - but it's almost impossible to not notice it - especially at night....

Who knows, maybe I'm chasing a problem that doesn't really exist?

Like I said, it's certainly not a big problem - just one of those little things that I've noticed that bothers me. If it's normal, then I can quit chasing it though!

My understanding is that it's completely normal for the voltage to go up and down - basically, the car is smart enough to only generate the amount of power that is actually need to keep things working (and keep the battery charged) - so what you're seeing sounds correct. But you would think that it would provide enough power to keep the lights from flickering at idle...

 

Have you checked your ground location? If it's the same as a 2007, the battery grounds to the car frame by a cable, about one foot, from the negative terminal to the frame. You can unscrew the bolt, clean it with a wire brush, and even sand around the connection spot to bare metal to increase the contact area. Ideally, add another low gauge cable from the battery negative to that grounding bolt. A "Big 1" upgrade, I suppose.

If the flickering lights happen while parked, an easy way to try this in a parked location is to use jumper cables. Connect one end to the negative terminal on the battery, and then experiment by connecting the other end to various parts on the engine, the strut tower bolt, etc. to improve the grounding. Perhaps it's not a grounding problem, but it is easy to check, and does not cost anything if you use jumper cables.

I carry a cigarette lighter voltage display I bought on Ebay to monitor my voltage. If you use one, remember to pull it out as the cigarette lighter (power ports) are powered whether or not the ignition is on.

 

Have you checked your ground location? If it's the same as a 2007, the battery grounds to the car frame by a cable, about one foot, from the negative terminal to the frame. You can unscrew the bolt, clean it with a wire brush, and even sand around the connection spot to bare metal to increase the contact area. Ideally, add another low gauge cable from the battery negative to that grounding bolt. A "Big 1" upgrade, I suppose.

If the flickering lights happen while parked, an easy way to try this in a parked location is to use jumper cables. Connect one end to the negative terminal on the battery, and then experiment by connecting the other end to various parts on the engine, the strut tower bolt, etc. to improve the grounding. Perhaps it's not a grounding problem, but it is easy to check, and does not cost anything if you use jumper cables.

Yeah, that is one of the first things I tried when I initially noticed this issue years ago (scraping paint underneath that battery ground connection). Didn't change anything...

It does happen in Park while idling, so I could test connecting to other ground locations. Won't hurt to try.... I'll let you know happens.


Thanks for the input!

 

Heck........For the price of a voltage regulator and bearing set for my 100 amp. 5.0 Chevy alt. a
ready to go re-built was only a few bucks more.
The time to knock out the bearings and install the reg.............forget it!

 

When your car is running. Do you have a voltage checker that will tell u what current voltage in car is?? Perhaps keep a digital multimeter handy.

If it looks good. Maybe pull the flickering light at test it there


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