Well don’t be afraid to ask if u have a question bud.
This bypass that’s coming out is supposed to eliminate a ton of the install headaches on our cars. I was going to go with summing the after amp signal but found out these were coming out so I have been hanging tight.
Do u have photos of your install?? And what you’re using??
Just got done tearing the dash down and putting it back together... The climate controls still work without the radio!
My Metra dash kit came in today too so I went ahead and just put the majority of it in while I was at it.
My radio comes in tomorrow (Kenwood double din), but I'm still on the fence about what kit I'm going to go with. Most likely the PAC RP5-GM51 cause it's cheaper than the Axxess one, but I will make up my mind tomorrow. Probably overnight it from crutchfield, or try to find it locally so I can have it in by the weekend and finally enjoy some clean sounds.
I'll also update with some build pics once I'm done!
Hey there, I have obtained the integration piece but slowly plugging away at the system before I install that. Right now I’m building a monster subwoofer set up. I’ll attach some photos. Making everything custom.
Sorry, it's been a while. I'll jump right into it....
So I installed my Kenwood DDX775BH with the Metra/Axxess Kit GM-MOST-02. (pricey still at almost $300 for the dash kit and harness; I bought both of mine off carID as they were the only ones that had it at the time).
I wound up having a shop do the headunit install because I was lazy af and they had a bar next door (!!). I tore the dash completely down for them and also ran my 6 channel pre-outs to the DSP so they had minimal work to actually do and everything came out nice. With that Axxess kit, the Onstar app controls also still work fine with my vehicle so that's a nice little bonus.
I also added a Sirius XM module (SXV300) to get my XM back after not having it for a few weeks with the new radio. At first I used the included antenna from the XM module, but reception was piss poor no matter where I placed it inside the cabin/dash because I didn't want to add the damn thing to the exterior on the roof... So I wound up buying an adapter to use the factory antenna fin on the roof; link for that here: XMF-SMB FAKRA to 3rd party Satellite Radios :: Car Stereos and components. I bought a 6 foot extension but I'm fairly sure 3 foot would be enough. The cable needs to run from the inside of the dash (above the glove box) where the XM tuner module sits (or wherever you have it placed after installing to the back of the radio) to the bottom passenger kick panel where you'll connect it to the factory XM connector (I believe its the gold/yellow connector down there). Once I did this, the reception is the same as factory, no more intermittent dropouts.
Overall, sound quality is superb now with the new radio and I have a nice looking radio with more features.
Currently I'm working on installing an aftermarket dash cam, Crux CUL-03. It just shipped out today so maybe I'll give another update if it winds up working out. Pretty sure it should fit on that lip right above the license plate though.
Also, I'm going to sound deaden my floor and roof next (everything else - all doors and entire trunk - is deadened to the max with CLD, CCF, and MLV all layered up) and then make a MDF amp rack panel to tidy up all my amps and wiring (currently in a bit of a rats nest, but not too bad)
That's about it for now. If you have any questions feel free to ask away, I pretty much know this damn car inside and out now audio-wise.
Also a side note for everyone:
Crutchfield doesn't really have an up-to-date list of fitment for either radios, nor speakers for our cars (at least at the time I did everything).
Did this car have a touch screen from the factory or was it a base level with the basic radio ? Another question: How do you change the various vehicle settings and options that were accessible in the factory head unit ?
Did this car have a touch screen from the factory or was it a base level with the basic radio ? Another question: How do you change the various vehicle settings and options that were accessible in the factory head unit ?
No touch screen, was stuck with the ugly 4.2 inch radio before.
And whatever settings were set on the OEM radio before are there to stay now (not that there were even many settings to begin with on the 4 inch radios; pretty much the only things available to mess with were lights and door settings upon key fob unlock/lock, that's about it)
It was a bigger pain than expected (you have to pull the engine mount to get to the serpentine belt tensioner).
Took a couple hours to do.
Here’s what I went with
Mechman elite 320amp alternator
Smaller serpentine belt (3/4” shorter than stock)
The pulley on the new alternator is smaller (hence making it spin faster).
I haven’t been able to test it with my subwoofer set up yet. I removed the subwoofer and amplifier temporarily so I can start sound deadening the car completely. And build a nice amplifier rack for my 2 amps.
So as far as I've gone to do this. I have been getting a TON of compliments on the sound quality and performance of the system. Even after doing the alternator swap, I'm still getting the dimming lights a bit when i really turn it up. After much research and looking to fix this issue. I cannot go with a simple 'capacitor' as a 1 or 2 farrad capacitor just wont work well enough. I found a supercap set up that will work yet a bit pricey. I've talked to many 'competetion' guys that have tons of extra batteries and all have told me the same thing. 'if you are going to go with a capacitor, the rule of thumb is 50 farrad for every 1000 watts. Which blew me away because there's no way i'm installing 150 capacitors in my car lol.
Instead of getting an ultra capacitor which is shaped exactly like a car battery and is 1000 farrad, im going with a super capacitor, when you string 6 of these together and you get 300 farrad capacity, which will be sufficient for my set up. they are very light and pack a mean punch.
Sorry to bother you, I hope you don;t mind a couple of noob questions...
Do you have any diagram on how to install the AX-DSP-MOST1?
Are you using 6X9 speakers on the front? did you make adapters for that yourself?
so the new 2019 ride i just picked up is going to receive a different type of system i think. This one will be all stealth, nav tv hook up, and going to be pulling spare tire and building a custom box for the spare tire wheel well. should turn out nice and keep my trunk space. I'll send pics and give updates when i get started. as for now, enjoying the new car smell and the stock bose system in this new car is actually pretty good especially for a stock system.
Looks like wingnut and theory have illustrated the 2 methods available to upgrade sounds of new body impalas.
I also have the my link system and went with axdsp most1 method to retain the factory head. tJhenry did you loose parking assist when you replaced the factory amp
so the new 2019 ride i just picked up is going to receive a different type of system i think. This one will be all stealth, nav tv hook up, and going to be pulling spare tire and building a custom box for the spare tire wheel well. should turn out nice and keep my trunk space. I'll send pics and give updates when i get started. as for now, enjoying the new car smell and the stock bose system in this new car is actually pretty good especially for a stock system.
I'd like to know what you think of the Navtv unit! I'm thinking of just skipping navtv and doing the arc audio ps8 processor since I'm already running arc everything!
I like the navy since it does not interfere with anything in the car. And it gives a fiber optic output.
I was going to go stealth, however there’s just to much $ tied up in the stuff I already have. I will be switching to a sealed subwoofer inclosure since that hits smoother and more accurate on bass production. As a trade off the box is only 1/2 the size of the potted enclosure. Slowly but surely the blueprint is going to become reality. Still putting stuff together. Weighing out ideas.
I may just say screw the nav tv. Stick with the stock Bose system since it sounds pretty darn good as is. And just add a sub with a line out converter. I’m really starting to lean that direction. I went all out on the last car and to be honest I think the stock mids and highs sounded better and fuller. And I spent like $1000 on those mids and highs.
Special Coverage# N182186881
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