Will the car move in 2nd and 1st ranges?

 

No, it currently only moves in reverse. It does, however, catch gear. I can feel it switch but when you press the gas it seems like sonething is holding the car from moving. Perfectly fine in reverse

 

You have pulled the shifter to "1" and "2" and tried to move? If the differential was imploded/exploded it shouldn't move at all.

 

Yes, I have put the shifter in 1 and 2 and it does the same as DRIVE. It seems to start to move, but then cant go as if the brakes were applied. It hasn't even been 4,000 miles since having transmission rebuilt. Any possibility of it NOT being the transmission...again?

 

I have had the same issue as this before and it ended up being that the rear emergency drum brake fell apart and would wedge in place when driving to drive forward, locking up the rear wheel. For whatever reason it moved in reverse. I would think if you could feel the car grabbing the forward gears and moving just a little bit, the transmission is probably fine. I would jack the car up and see if you can rotate the rear wheels forward while they are in the air. If not, take the wheel off and remove the rotor to see if the brake pads for the ebrake came apart.

 

Only other things going on with this car right now was the P0011 code, starting symptoms of bad wheel hub, and sometimes randomly not starting until i disconnect and reconnect battery.

Yes, you may be correct about that. I tried moving the car forward again and it moves about a foot or two then locks up. Which rear wheel did you have your issue with? Thanks for the help

 

I had the exact opposite problem a few months ago when I had the transmission rebuilt on my '95 Cutlass Supreme convertible. It would move forward but not in reverse. This was a bit of a problem when brought it home from the transmission shop and parked it in the carport. I went to back it out the next day and it wouldn't move. I had to have it towed back to the transmission shop and they tightened a cable and adjusted the shifter linkage. It works okay now, not perfect, but okay. I have to move the shifter back one click and then push it slightly forward to get it into reverse and then do the same thing putting it into drive or it will be in third instead.

 

I had that happen with mine. I had a friendhope that back up. it's actually under the hood but connects at the bottom, I believe it was slightly to the right of the engine.
I had somebody put that back together and it worked fine after that. wish I could tell your names of what part that is called but that I don't have currently.

 

Did you check the transmission fluid level ?

 

Yes, I checked the transmission fluid level and it's not low. Fluid is a nice red and does not smell burnt at all. (Fluid and filter were changed at time of rebuild a few months ago...according to my paperwork)

 

^ Good call reubenswinks!!!

 

Mine is doing the samething. But will drive in 1st and 2nd grat

 

I have transmission fluid mine will shift and drive in gears 1 and 2 but not 3 and drive. Did anyone or. u find a solution yet?

 

Hey did you find the solution to your problem

 

Alot of these people havent posted here in awhile.. are you having transmission problems?

 

Dumb. Even if the emergency drum brakes were grabbing, you should feeling it want to pull forward. You should be able to tell that.

 

I have a 09 Chevy Impala. 3.5l. Yesterday I was going across a intersection and heard a big pop and started sounding like grinding coming from the driverside engine bay. It's been snowing and been having to turn off traction control to make it around. Before this problem I would get vibrations in my steering wheel when I would turn or idle. Right now the front wheels don't move at all even being in neutral. I just wanna know how f***** I am? I've had it rebuilt before. $2800 😥

 

Hello everyone I have a 2010 Chevy impala, few days ago was driving and came to a stop light. When light turned green I pressed on gas and heard a pound clunk noise, thought I was dragging something but looked under didn’t see nothing hanging. Tow truck driver came and was having a hard time pulling car up as it didn’t want to roll as if something was stopping it and letting it go over and over. He mentioned that it looked like the cv axel was busted on passenger side, so I replaced it still didn’t work. Had a mechanic look at it yesterday and he mentioned that it was the motor mounts. While I put it in drive seemed engine jerked which lead him to believe transmission was fine as both axels where wanting to turn but hitting something. So I replaced engine motor mount as it was busted, but still same problem. Can anyone help me figure it out or know what’s going on. Please email me at VERSATILEPROJECTS760@GMAIL.COM

 

So what exactly are your symptoms, from when you first drove away from the stoplight? Fill us in if there was anything leading up to this as well.

 

I figured out the problem. Apparently I ordered two cv half shafts and one of them ended up being shorter..... Thanks rockauto. My dumb ass should have more careful and checked the parts b4 installing. Appreciate it the mexking for replying to this forum.

 

Thank you for the update. Im glad you were able to figure it out

 

so my 08 impala was slipping in drive first and i was using the other gears but now it won't drive in 1,2,3rd gear or drive just reverse but before it would drive in 3,2,1st gear but it stopped and then i decide to check my transmission fluid after doing some research after a week or more of it not moving forward and it was basically empty and i refilled today and it still doesn't drive in drive 1,2,3rd gear but still reverses, kind of had a burning smell when i cranked it yesterday and just let it ran in my driveway and also when i first couldn’t go forward and i was reving it to make it go.

 

I need help

 

Yea i know now, i didn’t then. As this is my first car.

 

And only a gallon but that was useless because i looked up on the internet afterwards, i need 3.5-4 Gallons to refill a transmission. 13.4-5 Qt’s. Wtf

 

@Williamwb004 welcome to the forum. Based on everything you have posted it's most likely the case that every speed system in the transmission and all clutch and valve components are toasted. I applaud you for squeezing every mile possible out of it. Now it's time to get a REFURBISHED transmission and have it addressed to the computer and you'll get another hundred thousand miles with only basic maintenance.

 

Hey. So I posted and am not sure if I did this right but im gonna shoot this here too. Ive got a similar issue to everyone else with the 2011 Impala LT. Mine will go just fine from a cold start. For about five minutes. After the car gets to running temp it just won't go anymore. I've checked my tranny fluid. There's no metal, its not burnt or discolored. Nothing there to alarm me.after 5 minutes it just won't go. If I restart the vehicle it will go for another couple minutes at best and then as soon as I stop again no more forward motion. I've got a guy swearing its the tranny. Could it be something else????

 

Hey. Sorry to keep texting. I am having trouble figuring out how to access the manual you sent. Could u send it to me in pdf?

 

@Marre4life

@bigrader35

Hard to say since not much said about each of yours, there's always slightly different symptoms, so speaking generally, it's the valve body and probably the friction material, plus compounded possibly the Transmission Control Module (or a wire exiting the TCM running to Ground).

The attached aftermarket service manual will help you find the TCM and also to do a couple related checks. But its not adequate for diy Transmission repair: have a shop do it.

 

Thanks for getting back to me so fast. Let me explain a little better. My 2011 Impala Lt is acting up. Bought the car from a friend who drove it round trip daily 125 miles. The car idles a little rough. Nothing major just shutters a little. When I first got it the thing was throwing all kinds of error codes. Hard to tell what was real and what wasn't so I ran down a couple things. Replaced the map sensor, control module, coil packs, plugs and wires. Only code left now is 02 sensor and stabilitrack. I can get in it when its fresh and go. For about five minutes. Once the motor warms up and I get to a stop sign, hit the throttle I get no acceleration. The car simply revs. Shut it off and then get back in drive i have acceleration for 2 minutes tops. After that its hurry up and wait for the car to cool off before it will move again. Ive checked my tranny fluid and its red. Doesn't smell burnt and there's not any metal in it. Its just like it falls flat on its face and will not go once its warm. Im hoping that I can fix the car and drive it back and forth to cdl school this winter without dumping 3 large into it.

 

@bigrader35

Its not a link. The pdf of the cover is simply so you can find it in the parts store, but they sell pdf copies on their website. And online resellers like Amazon etc.

Separate, there's e-info on www.charm.li but it's more for experienced mechanics. Give it a try.

 

@bigrader35

Trying to be certain from afar what is happening. Nothing negative intended.

Warm or cold your motor responds to gas pedal and motor rpm increases-decreases normally.

When Cold the transmission sends rpm's to the wheels. So car runs normally.

But when warm (a few minutes) regardless of motor rpm the transmission stops sending rpm to wheels. Turning key off and waiting for motor / transmission to cool, then restarting, temporarily fixes it.

---

That sort of weirdness always seems to be related to sensor array. You have a Stabilitrak error. Have you looked into that? Stabilitrak relies on wheel hub speed sensors, one in all 4 wheels. Check each plug for corrosion and each wire for damage. If everything is good there, then test all four speed sensors (youtube for 2006~2011 Impala). These are Hall effect sensors built into the hubs. Front hubs are different than rear hubs.

Note that both Stabilitrak and ABS rely on these speed sensors. Oddly, the OBDII system doesn't always Code uniformly. But if the Module gets unexpected wheel speed data it usually responds in some protective manner, so you need to solve Stabilitrak.

There is an on-off for Traction Control left of steering wheel on dash. At each key-off key-on it reverts to default (Traction Control On) and so it takes a little time for it to realize wheel speed data is not reliable. You might try turning Traction Control off before putting it in gear. It might solve or there could be other reasons the wheel speed sensors will not be Ignored (like ABS). In any event, you need to solve Stabilitrak Traction Control before you can get reliable performance observations.

Once Stabilitrak is solved, any hidden or phantom condition should become observable. If none exist then it should solve your reported transmission trouble.

..

 

Thanks for the tip. I tried turning off the traction control. No change. Still gets warm and wont go.
I did notice that I dont feel the transmission slide into gear.
I pulled the car forward and back this morning amd before I could say 5 mjnjtes flat it was not doing anything whatsoever. It was idling hard this morning and I was beginning to think I had throttle body issues too until my battery died. So here I sit broken hearted.... trying to fix an impala that sharted

 

Solve Stabilitrak. See if computer is in protective mode.

Or replace transmission and hope for the best.

But you're still gonna need to solve Stabilitrak.

..