Is the passenger window working from the master control?

May be the window regulator. Some of the older gm cars have had issues with the regulator cable snapping. Usually when the regulator is bad with a snapped cable the window will be able to be moved freely by grabbing it and sliding it, but not always the case. Have seen regulator motors go bad as well. Not too bad to replace them if it is the regulator.

If it were mine, I would pull the door panels off, will know real quick if the regulators are bad.

If the regulators are not bad, check voltage at your switches where the windows are not working, can then check voltage at the motors connections when bumping the switches to see if they are getting voltage.

 

I'm pretty sure it is not the regulator. I would hear the motor. There is no sound coming from within the door- no motor movement. I'm not sure the regulator on the driver door would effect rear windows- they all quit working at the same time.

 

I previously owned a 2008, 2011 and 2012 Impala LTZ. I now own a 2014 Impala 2LTZ.

I did not have window problems on the 2008 model - but did replace the LF and RR door lock actuator assembly. Door panel removal is VERY easy.

Do your rear windows work from the rear local / door panel switch? If so, I suspect you have one or more broken wires in the harness that goes from the LF door, through the rubber conduit accordion near the door hinge area (which would affect operation of the LF door master switch). You can dislodge the conduit as it is a press fit on the door and the A pillar, and carefully use your fingers to see if there is one or more broken wires. If so, you may have to CAREFULLY cut open the rubber conduit to replair the wire(s).

One thing to check - have you inadvertently activated the window lock-out switch on the LF door master switch, which would disable the other three windows? Since the windows stopped working suddenly, I'd bet it has to be an electrical wiring issue - probably a broken wire.

 

You can dislodge the conduit as it is a press fit on the door and the A pillar, and carefully use your fingers to see if there is one or more broken wires. If so, you may have to CAREFULLY cut open the rubber conduit to replair the wire(s).

You can maybe stretch the rubber out of the way and do the repair, but you gotta be good with bungee cords and duct tape

Seriously, on the one or two I've had to repair, I was able to do it without cutting, but I mighta needed an extra pair of hands - it's been a while

Doug

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My thought was that my window lock switch went bad. I hoped that getting a new master switch would remedy that. Unfortunately, it did not. I have pulled the rubber boot in the door and inspected the wires. Everything appeared to be sound. (I'm familiar with the broken wire issues as I had to repair the wire for the rear defrost located on the passenger side.

I have checked the other windows at the local switches. The only one that works is the RF- and only from the local switch. That's what lead me to believe it may be an issue with the window lock switch. I'll try pulling the panel tomorrow to see what I can find.

Thanks for your input.