[caldridge4]

I have a 2005 Impala 3.4L
I drove it a few weeks ago just fine, parked it in the driveway and when I went to start it again a couple hours later, it wouldn’t start. Because I didn’t have the patience to mess with it, I didn’t bother for a couple of weeks. A “service engine soon” warning came on.

When I put the key in, all electronics work fine. When I attempt to start the car, nothing happens. The lights dim, but there is no effort made by the car to start, and no clicking from the starter.

I have swapped the ignition switch and starter for brand new ones, still nothing. I also detached one ground wire and cleaned the contact surfaces with no luck. I have checked fuses, and they seem to be visually fine. Battery was also checked and is fine.

Anyone else have this issue that (hopefully) found a solution?

 

[cj1]

First verify that you have bat v at the starter term and bat v on the starter solenoid terminal when key in start position.

 

[caldridge4]

Can I do this with a multimeter?

 

[plano-doug]

Can I do this with a multimeter?

Yes, a multimeter works fine for this.


Doug

.

 

[caldridge4]

Cleaned all the grounds, still nothing. Here’s a quick video. Going to check voltage to starter now.

https://youtu.be/cyt-2HZvCD0

 

[caldridge4]

Battery voltage is about 11, and starter is the same. When attempting to start the car, there is a voltage drop to around 8.

 

[plano-doug]

Battery voltage is about 11, and starter is the same. When attempting to start the car, there is a voltage drop to around 8.

Did you get batt v on the solenoid when you tried to crank it? You need to determine if the issue is the solenoid (shouldn't be on a new starter) or if it's the starter relay or if it's upstream of that, between the ignition switch and starter relay. In fact - I can't look art the drawing right right now - but I think the BCM is between the ign sw and the starter relay.

The key here is, did you get bat v on the small terminal on the solenoid when you went to crank it?

Doug

.

 

[caldridge4]

Yes, just checked voltage to solenoid again. Drops about 0.8 V when trying to start

 

[caldridge4]

Instrument cluster, interior lights, and headlights flashing now when I put the key to “on”. Stops when attempting to start car.

https://youtu.be/UvMkHOKmXLY

 

[caldridge4]

Also, just noticed the dash is not registering the car being in different gears and no reverse lights. Neutral safety switch possibly? Where is it located on this car?

 

[cj1]

Bat v should read 12.6 engine off, at least 10 v during cranking and 13.8 -14.2 engine running.

 

[plano-doug]

Also, just noticed the dash is not registering the car being in different gears and no reverse lights. Neutral safety switch possibly? Where is it located on this car?

I've not dabbled with the Internal Mode Switch for the transmission, but I've attached a drawing. The IMS encodes the shifter position into four wires going to the PCM. From the drawings, it's not clear how easy/difficult it is to access the switch, should that be necessary.

From what I can tell, the PCM uses those four wires to implement the neutral safety switch function by interrupting the signal from the ignition switch to the starter relay. The PCM signals the BCM over a serial link. I think the BCM then sends that info to the instrument panel, to display the selected gear.

If I get a chance, tomorrow I'll look at mine to get a better handle on what's entailed to access the switch.

Checking in my manual, I see no other neutral safety switch in the car, such as the kind found down low on steering columns back in the day.

One test you might try (if you haven't already) is to move the shifter thru each position and see what gear is displayed. Also, when in park and neutral, apply slight pressure, in both directions (one at a time), to see if the displayed gear changes. For example, with it in park, push up on the gear shift and see if the display changes. Similarly, do that with it in neutral. In that case, you can push it towards R, and also push it towards D, to see if the display changes.

Of course, if you get it to display P or N, try starting it then. But be prepared for it to move, should it be in gear.

HTH.

Doug

.

 

[12 lt]

If you are getting voltage at the starter when the ignition switch is turned and no clicking or rolling, then your problem is probably the starter. New starters can be bad, or new starters can be improperly installed/aligned. Been a while since I have had to change one, but can recall some chevy vehicles requiring the starter to be shimmed, may or may not be the case. Have seen starters get hung and they do similar to what you say, dimming the lights when the key is turned and nothing else going on.

 

[12 lt]

Battery voltage is about 11, and starter is the same. When attempting to start the car, there is a voltage drop to around 8.

If it is not too bad to get to, I would be inclined to back the starter out and try seeing what it does loose away from the flywheel. If you have a battery charger with start, you could test the starter disconnected from the car to be sure it is rolling without load. Then you could also see what your system is doing with your meter without the starter connected when you bump the key in the ignition switch. Without the starter connected you should have minimal to no drop in voltage from what the battery is when it is load free.

 

[caldridge4]

Also, just noticed the dash is not registering the car being in different gears and no reverse lights. Neutral safety switch possibly? Where is it located on this car?

I've not dabbled with the Internal Mode Switch for the transmission, but I've attached a drawing. The IMS encodes the shifter position into four wires going to the PCM. From the drawings, it's not clear how easy/difficult it is to access the switch, should that be necessary.

From what I can tell, the PCM uses those four wires to implement the neutral safety switch function by interrupting the signal from the ignition switch to the starter relay. The PCM signals the BCM over a serial link. I think the BCM then sends that info to the instrument panel, to display the selected gear.

If I get a chance, tomorrow I'll look at mine to get a better handle on what's entailed to access the switch.

Checking in my manual, I see no other neutral safety switch in the car, such as the kind found down low on steering columns back in the day.

One test you might try (if you haven't already) is to move the shifter thru each position and see what gear is displayed. Also, when in park and neutral, apply slight pressure, in both directions (one at a time), to see if the displayed gear changes. For example, with it in park, push up on the gear shift and see if the display changes. Similarly, do that with it in neutral. In that case, you can push it towards R, and also push it towards D, to see if the display changes.

Of course, if you get it to display P or N, try starting it then. But be prepared for it to move, should it be in gear.

HTH.

Doug

.

I’m going to try shifting through gears and seeing if I can get it to display right now. I’ve tried and tried and can’t find a definitive location of the neutral safety switch on this car, but I can find the part online.

 

[plano-doug]

I’m going to try shifting through gears and seeing if I can get it to display right now. I’ve tried and tried and can’t find a definitive location of the neutral safety switch on this car, but I can find the part online.

The shaft in your pic is the shifter shaft (say that 3 times) that sticks up out of the transmission in the area below the throttle body. That's where the shifter cable attaches to it. (Actually, the lever on the end of the shifter cable attaches to it.)

The manual section I found on this topic doesn't give any preliminary instructions on getting to the Internal Mode Switch - it just sorta jumps into it, unfortunately. If you look at the pic I attached, it appears the side cover on the transmission (driver's side) has been removed. That makes sense since the shaft is in that area. It's not clear what all is involved in getting to the assembly to replace it. Unless I'm losing it - I'm approaching that age - I think you can remove the cover without draining the tranny or pulling the axle.

HTH

Doug

.

 

[caldridge4]

I’m going to try shifting through gears and seeing if I can get it to display right now. I’ve tried and tried and can’t find a definitive location of the neutral safety switch on this car, but I can find the part online.

The shaft in your pic is the shifter shaft (say that 3 times) that sticks up out of the transmission in the area below the throttle body. That's where the shifter cable attaches to it. (Actually, the lever on the end of the shifter cable attaches to it.)

The manual section I found on this topic doesn't give any preliminary instructions on getting to the Internal Mode Switch - it just sorta jumps into it, unfortunately. If you look at the pic I attached, it appears the side cover on the transmission (driver's side) has been removed. That makes sense since the shaft is in that area. It's not clear what all is involved in getting to the assembly to replace it. Unless I'm losing it - I'm approaching that age - I think you can remove the cover without draining the tranny or pulling the axle.

HTH

Doug

.

I’ll see if I can access that tomorrow or possibly this weekend and I’ll let you know!

 

[hatzie]

The IMS is under the LH side cover on the 4T65E. You get to drop the LH side of the engine/transmission cradle and pull the LH axle. No end of fun...

Since you have a 4T65E transmission that isn't giving you any more serious issues yet... I'd just bite the bullet and change the shift solenoid(s), pressure control solenoid, and Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid. You're in there already and those aren't expensive parts compared to a re-work. The up-side is the transmission will likely last significantly longer with a fresh set of solenoids.
Add the replacement pan magnets per the TSB and a new strainer to protect the new solenoids while you're at it... They're real cheap and you're draining the pan anyway.

Don't bother with the cork or felt gasket in the Strainer kit. The original GM silicone and steel pan and side cover gaskets can be usually be cleaned off and re-used. That side cover gasket is around $100 and the pan gasket is around $50 so it adds up quick.

 

[hatzie]

The 4T65E solenoids vary by year so you need to look up your rig to get the right ones. Dave at TEP or the Dealership can get the correct solenoids and IMS for your rig.

Here's a thread on side cover removal.
http://www.impalaforums.com/diy-do-it-yourself-how-to/242595-trans-side-cover-removal.html#post285832

I posted a set of Youtube Videos (not mine) on 4T65E solenoid replacements. The videos are of a GEN7 Impala even tho its' in the Gen8 forum. Pulling the side cover on a 4T65E is the same animal all the way through with some small changes to controls etc internally.
The part numbers I posted are for a later transmission. Make sure to get your own list.
http://www.impalaforums.com/8th-gen-drivetrain/1129345-tranny-no-reverse-or-drive-2x-2.html#post2576378

Use Dexron VI to re-fill the box. Stay away from stuff that says meets Dexron VI on the bottle. It's not tested and licensed by GM so who really knows. Wal Mart Supertech Dexron VI is inexpensive and meets spec or it wouldn't say Dexron VI on the bottle.
http://www.impalaforums.com/8th-gen-drivetrain/1129345-tranny-no-reverse-or-drive-2x.html#post2549713

Here's the TSB for installing Magnets in the pan. GM TSB 08-07-30-040C

 

[Blue Extract]

I have an Impala SS 95 and everytime i try to start it up, I crank it and all it does is do a ticking sound. (Like a grandfather clock does.) And when I crank it, it also turns everything off. Completely shuts down. I have 2 sets of keys if I loose one pair. I don't have a gauge because I took it out one day. Sometimes it even quits on me. I was traveling to Tennessee, it shut down the whole vehicle and wouldn't start until like 45 minutes later. The radio, everytime I insert the key, it works sometimes and it doesn't. Like i said already, the Pass. Key Fault light is on and will not go off.

If anyone can help me with his, I'll appreciate it much.
-AJ