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Ok, when my car has been sitting for a few hours and I go somewhere, when I make a left turn, the right wheel locks up and grinds for a second then goes away and does not do it anymore. I've taken it to the shop and my mechanic says everything is fine because I cannot recreate the sound or feel. ( as I said, it only does it a few times then stops) does anybody know what could cause this?
 

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Sounds like a sticking caliper..
 

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How do you know the wheel is locking up?

Also is the brake being applied each time it happens? I would also have the mechanic look into the drive axle on that side. Especially if you have had a clicking sound coming from that wheel when you made turns for awhile. If indeed it turns out to be an axle problem it could shatter on you leaving you stranded and needing a tow truck.
 

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Ok, when my car has been sitting for a few hours and I go somewhere, when I make a left turn, the right wheel locks up and grinds for a second then goes away and does not do it anymore. I've taken it to the shop and my mechanic says everything is fine because I cannot recreate the sound or feel. ( as I said, it only does it a few times then stops) does anybody know what could cause this?
This sounds like the ABS firing on that wheel. If the shop checked it, then they checked the brakes and wheel bearings, so that can (presumably) be ruled out.

I would inspect the wiring harnesses to the front wheel hubs. I'm thinking one of the wires has been chafed and is making intermittent contact which is causing the ABS to fire on the right front wheel. The sound it makes could easily be described as a grinding sound, and when it fires, it will surely make it feel like the brake is being applied on that corner of the car.

Keep in mind, check both wires. Either one could be causing the ABS controller to think the right front wheel is spinning.

Doug

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I had one of my engine debris guards in the wheel well become partially detached and when I made left turns made a horrendous noise. I thought it was the rack going bad. I broke one of my tie rod links that goes to the lower control arm that too made a grind and bang noise when turning at slow speeds. what yours sounds like is a bad wheel bearing or ball joint. I would securely jack up your car then tug on both wheels. also check the above. Could be any suspension part, could be something weird like your front strut is worn and the top part is broken and rotating.
 

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Sound like something im having..When i make a right turn hear slight rudding noise and feel a vibration. i change rack two weeks. shop say could be bad bearing when i address this. Yesterday i look under on driver side notice ball joint rubber was damage. so what im going to do is change lower control arm with ball joints and wheel hub and bearing hoping its just that. And while also do rotors and brakes. Do you smell anything like buring rubber?
 

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My 2012 Impala has same symptoms. Front passenger wheel locking on slow speed, sharp left turns...worse in gravels. Always the same tire. Disabling traction helps, disabling stability helps more, and neither completely cures it. I'm leaning towards bad wheel sensor, front right. I Checked bearings, brakes caliper bolts, strut, ball joints, tie rods, control arm bushings. Everything tight and calipers are free moving. I hope it's a sensor and not the brake/traction controller. Hub/sensor are easy, though not cheap. Brake Controllers are beyond most home mechanics from what I understand.
 

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Ok, when my car has been sitting for a few hours and I go somewhere, when I make a left turn, the right wheel locks up and grinds for a second then goes away and does not do it anymore. I've taken it to the shop and my mechanic says everything is fine because I cannot recreate the sound or feel. ( as I said, it only does it a few times then stops) does anybody know what could cause this?
Check your ABS cable I had the same issue
 

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I've noticed that the passenger side only locks when turning.... To the right.... I think. Been a long day. Can't remember left or right, at the moment. Anyway, it fits with a wire or pigtail being stretch to tight. When I get time to meter it, or otherwise solve the issue, I'll post the cause of the problem. I believe it is a sensor or wiring issue.Thanks for the help.
 

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May try unplugging at the hub and spraying both ends of the plug with elec. contact cleaner then slathering both ends with dielectric grease and reconnecting.
 

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Good suggestion. If they are corroded, I will. Meter's gonna tell all, unless the problem lies elsewhere. Process of elimination on this one, and I think I'm ready to crawl under her again.
 

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One thing not mentioned which sometimes causes screeching after doing brakes is sharp, right angle's on new brake pads.
Brake Pads with sharp, right angled, leading edges should be "Chamfered" before installing them.


The chamfer creates a rounded or tapered edge to prevent noise.
A chamfer is an angled cut on the friction pad's leading and trailing edges. Chamfers can control how the edge of the pad interacts with the brake rotors and can help prevent noise. Chamfers do this by making sure the largest possible edge of the pad makes contact with the rotor and sharp edges on pads don't chatter, vibrate and squeal!
Photo/text: -- © Andy Markel
 
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