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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is a question I have always wanted to ask & I know everyone has their opininons. My grandfather ran Pennzoil in his truck for as long as I can remeber. I ran it in my own vehicles for the first decade of driving. I never saw any issues. So I have to ask, what is wrong with Pennzoil? Why do so many people talk bad about it? Is there any real data to back up your opinions, or is this just a "I heard they use puppies to make their oil" sorta circumstance?
 

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There seems to be a common misconception that pennzoil causes sludge build-up, I don't know where it comes from, but it's BS. The only things I have ever seen cause sludge is either using oil additives, or not changing it.
 

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My dad always used Pennzoil and I did too before going to Mobil1. Never had any issues.
 

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I like penzoil alot. I used it in my olds aurora and it just loved that oil. I mainly would use castrol gtx.

But a few times they were out of it. I went and got penzoil over 75k. And my aurora would just run really well with it in the crankcase. I think that is what I am going to use in my impala next oil change.

It is very good oil in my opinion. I have used them all just about. Valvoline isn't bad either. Quaker state sucks though.

Jeremy
 

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Penzoil....good enough

I don't use it personally. I usually run Amsoil so I don't have to change oil as often. It usually comes out either a wash in $$ or slightly ahead. That said, my grandfather was a mechanic and ran Penzoil in everything he had from small engines to cars to pickups, to old gas tractors. He never complained about build up of sludge. He did always say to start with a oil and stick to it though. He started using it because almost every service station in the country sells it so he could always find a quart on the road, if he needed one. If you're going to use one oil, that's important. I've heard (no evidence) that at one time Penzoil changed to a waxy base oil and that there could be issues when mixing it with other oils.

In my opinion and experience, change your oil and filter at the proper intervals and most engines will outlast the car they're in!! Be it Penzoil, Valvoline, or the store brand. :beer: As I said above, if Amsoil didn't save me time and $$ I would just run a conventional. I do like synthetics though. I figure if you can run a conventional oil in a gearbox, change it to synthetic, and see a major drop in gear box temperature of the exact same box under the same load, there has to be something to it. If friction = heat then there almost has to be less friction and therefore less wear.
 

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Penzoil and quaker state mergered some years ago and qs was widely known at thattime to sludge up. I would not doubt that is when people started talking bad about penzsoil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I made the switch to mobile's High Mileage blend, after I saw how low Wal-Mart carries it in the 5qt containers. Can't beat the price. I think I paid $10 for a 5qt jug last time.
 

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^ I would guess about $10 per oil change
 

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^ I would guess about $10 per oil change
Right, but that's the price per oil change, not the cost to use over a year.

Long ago, before I knew anything about oils, I was doing the first oil change on the freshly rebuilt 427 in my Camaro, (and that rebuild set me back big money), and I was pouring in this stuff that said, "GTX", on the bottle, (hey, don't laugh, it sounded cool! lol), that had a price of about $1 per quart. I suddenly realized, "Wait a minute; this engine just set me back thousands and thousands of dollars, and I'm using an oil that costs a buck a quart to, "protect", the engine?". I felt really stupid of course and started doing research and learning a lot more about oils and that is when I started using AMSOIL synthetic motor oils. That was 25 years ago now and I've had nothing but great results with it ever since.
 

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Any ANSI approved oil works fine, you just have to remember to change it. More expensive oil certainly isn't saving you any money.
 

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Any ANSI approved oil works fine, you just have to remember to change it. More expensive oil certainly isn't saving you any money.
What is ANSI?

AMSOIL synthetic motor oils have saved me thousands of dollars. I'd never go back to using petroleum oils, ever. I have better things to do with my money than donate it to the Big Oil industry, which already sucks our wallets dry with punishing gas prices. :yikes:
 

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Oil made your car run rough? Sounds like placebo effect to me... unless you converted it to a 2-stroke.
 

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Any ANSI approved oil works fine, you just have to remember to change it. More expensive oil certainly isn't saving you any money.
To add to this comment, no auto manufacturer can stipulate what oil to use during the warranty period of an automobile, this is according to a federal law. If they want to stipulate what oil to use then they have to furnish the oil change for free. In that alone even the store brand dino oil is fine in new cars. As Nick stated above as long as it is the current API/ANSI rated oil it will maintain your warranty which also means it will protect your engine. I know of several vehicles that have over 240K, 363K, 375K, and 410K miles on dino oil with no problems. Now how is it cheaper to use Amsoil over dino oil?
 

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I think there is a lot of misconceptions about oil in general. Like the expensive brands being so much better? I know a mechanic here who changed his oil regularly with whatever oil was on sale and ran his vehicle like that well over 300,000 miles.
 

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1969 Impala seems to be an Amsoil rep who stopped learning anything automotive several DECADES ago, what little he knew seems to mostly be horribly outdated or just plain old marketing BS.

For those actually interested in independently measured DATA rather than his marketing drivel try Bob Is The Oil Guy - Forums powered by UBB.threads™ look in the Used Oil Analysis section specifically for other cars/engines/use like yours.

Many oils are quality but that does not mean they work wonderfully in a particular engine. Back when I first signed up on that site everyone was still in love with M1 5w-30 for LT1s, BUT through used oil analysis people consistently found that the formulation at that time(constantly changes) resulted in high iron wear in particular. Did not make it a bad oil, as it performed wonderfully in things like the VW 1.8t. For the cost and the MEASURED results in an LT1 though I never bought it again, told my brother to use it in his wife's VW, but after actual meaningful research I found it not worthwhile for my car.

Formulas do change, if you want to worry about it continuous research is needed, I settled back into a whats on sale pattern. API standards, modern quality and engines that run FAR cleaner than ever before make oil almost a non-issue. I have a 227k mile Roady wagon motor that measures 5% leakdown. I bought the car at 172K miles, seemed decently cared for but nothing spectacular, tranny was a reman but when we pulled the engine we found no evidence it had ever been worked on atall.
 

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I think there is a lot of misconceptions about oil in general. Like the expensive brands being so much better? I know a mechanic here who changed his oil regularly with whatever oil was on sale and ran his vehicle like that well over 300,000 miles.
Higher priced oils do tend to be much better than their lower priced brethren. Remember, we do get what we pay for. Wear is not the only issue with a motor oil. Improvements in cold weather starting, improved fuel economy, (saving money), extended drain intervals, (again saving money), lower emissions, an internally cleaner engine, superior hot weather protection, improvements in power, etc., are all benefits a better performing oil can provide.
 
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