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Nice. I replaced mine at 89k they looked used and similar to yours. After 20k the replacements I got cheap were way more boogered up. More ashy residue and a more burnt appearance. Point is the cheapest even if numbers match may not be oe quality.
 

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I’m blown away how eBay advertises a lot now for auto parts. It’s such a BAD idea unless it’s coming from a reputable vendor who has an eBay footprint. FordTechMakaloco on YouTube has a couple good videos of counterfeit Motorcraft parts. The CHICOM counterfeiters are getting better at duplicating the packaging. Counterfeit parts were bad 25 years ago. They are incredibly worse today. It’s so bad the cheap aftermarket parts firms are being copied…
 

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'12/'13/'16 Limited LT's
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I’m blown away how eBay advertises a lot now for auto parts. It’s such a BAD idea unless it’s coming from a reputable vendor who has an eBay footprint. FordTechMakaloco on YouTube has a couple good videos of counterfeit Motorcraft parts. The CHICOM counterfeiters are getting better at duplicating the packaging. Counterfeit parts were bad 25 years ago. They are incredibly worse today. It’s so bad the cheap aftermarket parts firms are being copied…
Frickin' Chinesium...
 

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Installed new Mevotech TTX stabilizer links on the stabilizer bar I welded up yesterday evening. Also installed Mevotech TTX front wheel hub bearings. All have lifetime warranties honoured thru RockAuto. What drives me insane are stabilizer bar bushings. I never get the correct size on the first try. I ended up reinstalling the old bar bushings that were actually in good condition. I lubed them with Syl-glide and tightened to 31 ft/lbs

 

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I’m hearing a clunk from the sway bar bushings. I picked up some grease fittings and a tap set and plan to thread the fittings in the brackets. I’ll drill a smaller hole in the bushings to allow passage of grease to the bar in hope that it’ll effectively lube the bar. Once apart, again, I’ll see if I can make a channel inside the bushings for grease to get around the bars. Lofty plans but if it works, I’ll be set.
Later enthusiasts.
 

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Wow I should have done that when I had everything apart. I did grease mine by hand with sil-glyde.

Two days ago I installed new Monroe QuikStruts. My my what a difference that made with turning the steering wheel. No crazy noise either.

Today I installed a cheapo oil catch can. I used a heat gun to pull the PCV connector out of the corrugated tubing elbow that goes into the intake. Was quite easy as I already have plenty of hose laying around. I ran a vinyl hose down to the front of the car so I can use the ball valve to dump the liquid emulsion into a cup or pan without spilling it inside the engine compartment. Let’s see how long this flimsy bracket lasts.




 

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Wow I should have done that when I had everything apart. I did grease mine by hand with sil-glyde.

Two days ago I installed new Monroe QuikStruts. My my what a difference that made with turning the steering wheel. No crazy noise either.

Today I installed a cheapo oil catch can. I used a heat gun to pull the PCV connector out of the corrugated tubing elbow that goes into the intake. Was quite easy as I already have plenty of hose laying around. I ran a vinyl hose down to the front of the car so I can use the ball valve to dump the liquid emulsion into a cup or pan without spilling it inside the engine compartment. Let’s see how long this flimsy bracket lasts.




Nice, I’d like a can but can’t bring myself to do it.
I’m finding that very little if any grease is going in w the brackets tight. If I loosen them to get grease in I may as well take em all the way off. 2 done 2 to go.
 

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Hello
I’m making some modifications to my sway bar bushings and brackets. The moog bushings that have been in for 21k are essentially shot. Rounded and flattened out. I replaced them with the ones that came w the rear bar. Can’t remember the name. Solid 22mm.
Ppl complained of them making noise, including myself but they’ll have to do til I get oe fronts and some other kind for rears.
 

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I also removed the broken half of the key from the ignition today. Removal of the cylinder was quite easy. I seriously considered just paying the $45 for a replacement Dorman cylinder but I decided to get fancy with a pair of precision pliers. I ground down the ends so they were even thinner. Thankfully the tool steel has exception hardness and it effortlessly took the key out. I could have done this without even removing the cylinder.
Installing the cylinder was fun as I had to lookup the “special button” trick in order to remove the key. Apparently, if the battery is disconnected you cannot remove the key unless you push a tiny button under the cylinder. A YouTube video shows how to access it in the event of an emergency.

 

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Installed a 4G GPS tracker hidden in the under the rear deck. I realized that I could just tap power off of the Fuel Pump ECU located on the passenger side of the trunk. There is a constant +12V (pin 32) and also an accessory wire (pin 15). For a ground I wired it to a short self-tapping screw into the inside metal fender wall. I had to make a short extension of the wires and ran them inside loom. It’s nearly impossible to detect as the 3/8” loom is zip tied along another OE wire loom and it disappears into the bottom of the metal rear deck pan. The actual transceiver is sitting between the metal rear deck pan and the soft deck surface; there is a perfect 1” gap. The accessory wire allows the the GPS to advise that the vehicle is running and can trigger an alarm if configured. One option that I did not install was the extra wire to trigger a relay. That could be easily used to cut power to the fuel pump wire which is right at the ECU.

View attachment Fuel Control Module.pdf
 

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Installed a 4G GPS tracker hidden in the under the rear deck. I realized that I could just tap power off of the Fuel Pump ECU located on the passenger side of the trunk. There is a constant +12V (pin 32) and also an accessory wire (pin 15). For a ground I wired it to a short self-tapping screw into the inside metal fender wall. I had to make a short extension of the wires and ran them inside loom. It’s nearly impossible to detect as the 3/8” loom is zip tied along another OE wire loom and it disappears into the bottom of the metal rear deck pan. The actual transceiver is sitting between the metal rear deck pan and the soft deck surface; there is a perfect 1” gap. The accessory wire allows the the GPS to advise that the vehicle is running and can trigger an alarm if configured. One option that I did not install was the extra wire to trigger a relay. That could be easily used to cut power to the fuel pump wire which is right at the ECU.

View attachment 165995
Good thinking 👍🏻
 

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I should note, this is the tracker I have. The hard part was getting a working SIM for it as I wanted the cheapest option possible. I ended up buying a $20 4G flip phone and activated it on the $99/year plan that gives me like 1.2Gb. The GPS device allegedly uses around 30-40Mb per month. So $8.92/mo (including tax) is much cheaper than Onstar which isn't even installed in the car anyways. I have no doubt the CHICOM's are tracking my car but I don't really care.
 

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Hello enthusiasts
Today I removed the wheels calipers and rotors. I ground off the old paint, surface rust and repainted the non contact surface of the rotors and the caliper bodies. It’s metallic blue to match the fade job I did on the badges.
IMHO it looks awesome!
15 limited.
 
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