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Made an appointment for next week to get the Silver Fang's windows tinted.

What are you guys' opinions on darkness when it comes to front side windows versus rear side? My last car had the rears done in the darkest while the fronts were the lighter legal shade. Not sure if I really want that again though.
 

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Personally, I would get all windows tinted to the same level - I'd go with 20%. I got 35% on my 2012 and regret it - really wish I went darker.

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My impala is 18/35 on the windows. The wife's cruze is 20 all the way around. My front tint is going bubbly so I'm going to get the fronts to match the rears this time. Night time visibility is about the same I've found.

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Installed a "universal" exhaust hanger in order to try and line up my ZZP cat-back. It looks a TON better than it did without the hanger, but it still doesn't really line up very well, and I'm not entirely happy with the purchase.

That said, I also drove the car today, which may not seem like a big thing, but I spent Memorial day weekend installing ZZP's Z3 turbo kit. I was impressed with the kit, and everything went on smoothly (for the most part). The biggest PITA of the job was changing the rear spark plugs. I had to get to them from underneath with the exhaust removed in order to pry the wires off the old plugs.

As of now, I've only put about 25 miles on the car since the installation, and I'm TRYING (I swear) to keep my foot out of it and let the car adjust to it's new build status. The only real hiccup I've been having is when I get on it then quickly get off the throttle all the way, the car will stall. My theory is that the air is getting metered at the MAF, so the computer injects fuel to give the car the proper A/F ratio, but the air gets vented out of the BOV, causing the engine to flood. It will restart without a problem, and keeping the throttle plate open just a bit keeps it from happening, but I think I need to adjust the BOV some. in any case, I will be emailing ZZP both about the stalling issue and the cat-back.

And yes, the car pulls very hard.
 

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Installed the larger Walmart-sourced Pilot Automotive Stainless Steel exhaust tips that I've had sitting around for over a year now. :) Look VERY nice! I also installed my new backup camera and drilled holes in the bumper so that I could use put all four bolts in the license-plate camera frame (instead of just the top two)... It's EXTREMELY hard to get to the bottom bolts (if you wanted to use a nut on the back-side). Personally, I didn't even put a nut on the back because of that - I actually installed 2 more of those white, square plastic things that the screws go into so that you don't need to use a nut on the backside... Just makes the license-plate frame a little more secure (the bottom bounces around less, which should help avoid damage to the camera, which is at the bottom of the frame on mine)...

Later, I'll be changing my oil and checking the torque on my axle nuts (which are known to loosen over time, at least on some of the 2012+ Impalas). Finally bought a 34mm axle nut socket for this. Will use my existing 150 ft. lb. torque wrench (axle nuts are supposed to be 162 ft. lbs, so I'll tighten until I hear the "click' and then tighten a little more). :) Unfortunately, I couldn't get my center caps out (tried using the "tape and pull" method, but not even close to working) - the center caps on the Charger wheels are *very* tight - so I'll have to take the wheels off to get the center caps out (which sucks, but don't want to try and pry them out and damage the caps on my wheels).

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Put 225 miles on it just driving to grad parties :eek:
Places went.png
 

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Paired my phone to the vehicle and the Rosen.

This is the first time I've ever set up Blutooth.

I'm not happy with the Iphone system for this.

I wanted to be able to select Rosen for Audio, and Vehicle for Phone, but there is no select-ability via separate settings for each.

Anyone have an Iphone and a Rosen?

I have never liked having an Iphone.
 

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One the passenger side blend door actuators started clicking loud this morning when I got to work. Swapped it out this afternoon.
Damn - did you just happen to have an actuator on-hand for when one failed (that sure was a quick fix!)?

I've been lucky with the actuators in my 2012 so far... When they do start failing, I think I'm going to try replacing the gear with one of the "lifetime warranty" gears you can get on Ebay (so replace the gear with a higher quality gear instead of replacing the actuator with another crappy actuator). I don't want to be replacing the damn things every few years if I can avoid it...

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Stopped at Autozone on the way home and picked one up. $36. Dorman, with lifetime guarantee. 15 min fix. Drop the glovebox and 2 5mm screws.
Oh, that's not bad - for some reason, I never even though of AutoZone for something like that (not sure why!) - was assuming you had to order them online... Good to know that they're inexpensive and readily available (and have a lifetime warranty). Maybe I won't mess with the gear then... Curious to see if they last.

At least it's a well-known issue with a well-known fix, I guess. Annoying when it happens, but in the scheme of things, it's a relatively minor problem to deal with (one of the reasons I like these cars - the issues are well-known and relatively minor)...

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Installed the larger Walmart-sourced Pilot Automotive Stainless Steel exhaust tips that I've had sitting around for over a year now. :) Look VERY nice!
Houston - I think I have a problem!! I was making some tune adjustments the past few days, so I've also been data-logging - and I've been noticing a TON of KR (Knock Retard)! I have a feeling that my new exhaust tips are hitting something (or are maybe even just vibrating off of the exhaust pipes themselves) under load (even low load), causing the sounds to travel up to the engine where the ECM is interpreting it as knock - and reducing timing to address it! It's the only explanation I can come up with as to why I'd be seeing so much KR all of the sudden (without hearing any knock or even changing anything timing-related in my tune)...

I'm going to go investigate to see if I can see anything, but I have a feeling that I'm going to have to remove the nice big exhaust tips! They look great, but I'm not willing to give up a bunch of power to have them!

Just thought that I'd mention it - those who don't monitor for KR may be losing a significant amount of power because of something as "simple" and "innocent" as exhaust tips!

I'll definitely report back after doing some further investigation and testing....

EDIT: Here is a picture - I have a feeling this larger exhaust tip is hitting into the metal piece above it - that metal section above the tip was white - my body color - but I put black ceramic brake caliper paint on it so you didn't see the white anymore (looked bad with my matte-black valance). Thoughts? I'm going to remove the tips and see what happens.... I could easily get the tip to hit into that metal "manually" using my hand to move it around...



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Just thought that I'd mention it - those who don't monitor for KR may be losing a significant amount of power because of something as "simple" and "innocent" as exhaust tips!
Thanks for the heads up... I have a pretty newb question here, KR is essentially the same as timing advance, correct?
 

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Thanks for the heads up... I have a pretty newb question here, KR is essentially the same as timing advance, correct?
It's related, but kind of the opposite. The computer pulls (subtracts) timing from the timing advance when it sees KR (the amount of timing pulled is directly related to the amount of knock).

So assuming that I'm right and it's my new exhaust tips that are causing the high KR that I'm seeing (and not some other issue), every time that exhaust tip hits off of that metal piece, the computer is seeing it as engine knock and telling the computer to pull timing (Knock Retard) in order to stop the knock (in this case, if I'm right about the tips, it's actually false knock - but it still results in timing being pulled - and thereby reducing performance).

False knock can be tough to track done - a lot of times, it's caused by headers in higher performance engines and other areas of the exhaust - but it can also be caused by something loose in the engine compartment, etc. Basically, the engine knock sensors are microphones that listen for certain frequencies - when it detects those frequencies, it calls it knock and initiates Knock Retard.

The 3.6L engines in the 2012+ Impalas have a knock sensor for each cylinder. Older cars used to have only 2 knock sensors, one per engine "bank". The knock sensors in the 2012+ Impalas are VERY sensitive.

Hope that helps!

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Wash, polish, and wax plus door handle fixes. Read here: [ame]http://www.impalaforums.com/showthread.php?p=3330114[/ame]
 

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Thanks for the heads up... I have a pretty newb question here, KR is essentially the same as timing advance, correct?
FYI - I took my new exhaust tips off and did another datalog in HPTuners today and the KR is still there - so it was NOT related to the exhaust tips...

So now I need to figure out why I'm seeing so much KR all of the sudden.. Maybe it's just a bad tank of gas (that would be nice). Since I work from home now, I have to use the gas that's around me, which is NOT top-tier gas (Sunoco). But I still use 93 octane gas and I should not be seeing so much KR with stock timing...

I was kind of hoping that it was something simple like the exhaust tips... But I was *WRONG*. :) The only other thing that I did recently was to rotate the tires, but not sure how that could be related... I am getting a decent amount of clunking in the front end when turning my wheels all of the way, so maybe there is some suspension part that is loose/failing causing false KR. Not really sure... If/when I figure out what's causing it, I'll be sure to post my findings...

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I identified what was causing my excessive KR today! While it wasn't the new exhaust tips, it was something just as simple... Before I went to the local pizza shop to get my lunch today, I reset my fuel composition (just in case, not even sure what it was before I reset it) as well as my trans adaptives (just in case it was somehow related since I've been modifying shift parameters) - I logged my drive to the pizza shop and found that the resets didn't help whatsoever.

After I left the pizza shop, I decided to check my front wheel skins (which I removed and re-installed recently because I unsuccessfully tried to install an alternate brand of wheel skins a few days ago) but ended up having to put the originals back on. For whatever reason, the one wheel skin doesn't fit as tightly as the others - and it ended up on my front drivers-side wheel. Seemed tight at first, but as I hit the palm of my hand on each "spoke", I found that the one spoke was loose. So apparently, when the wind hit that spoke just right while driving, it caused my KR to spike! I took off the wheel skin for the ride home from the pizza shop and I'd say that 95% of my KR was gone (I've always had some KR with this car)! :)

So there you have it - it was a stupid wheel skin that was causing my false KR! :) Now I can re-install my BAET (Big Ass Exhaust Tips). :)

There are two brands of wheel skins available for my Charger wheels (Coast To Coast "Imposter" brand and Pacific Tire & Rim brand) - they look very similar but attach in different ways. I found that the "Imposter" brand skins did NOT fit well at ALL - WAY too loose. Apparently, they rely on "lugnut clips" to secure themselves to the wheel - and the Charger lugnuts must be bigger because the lugnut clips didn't even touch the lmpala lugnuts at ALL... So I ordered new ones of the same brand that I have now - in both chrome and gloss black - which will be here tomorrow... Good timing! :)

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So there you have it - it was a stupid wheel skin that was causing my false KR! :) Now I can re-install my BAET (Big Ass Exhaust Tips). :)
I'm glad it was that simple. Sometimes it's the stupidest thing that causes a fault.

My previous car had an issue where it would crank but not start, and had fuel had air, intermittent or no spark. I spent days diagnosing the issue, had friends come down and look at it, had a mechanic friend come look at it... couldn't find the problem. After about $400 in parts I gave up and had it towed to a shop. Turns out one of the fuses was juuuuust loose enough where it was still working when tested, but didn't sit in the socket just right.

$3 part. I almost started crying lol.
 

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I'm glad it was that simple. Sometimes it's the stupidest thing that causes a fault.

My previous car had an issue where it would crank but not start, and had fuel had air, intermittent or no spark. I spent days diagnosing the issue, had friends come down and look at it, had a mechanic friend come look at it... couldn't find the problem. After about $400 in parts I gave up and had it towed to a shop. Turns out one of the fuses was juuuuust loose enough where it was still working when tested, but didn't sit in the socket just right.

$3 part. I almost started crying lol.
Honestly, I'm VERY happy to have found the issue so quickly and easily. If I didn't happen to be datalogging around the time I tried different wheel skins, the KR could have went on for months before i realized it and then I would have never even suspected the wheel skins - and it could have taken me forever to find out they were causing the issue. It was just dumb luck that I started datalogging right after I moved the wheel skins around... Made my day to find the issue though - I was starting to think to myself that I might have some sort of major engine issue or something!

There are just sooo many parts on a car that sometimes it's so hard to pinpoint the cause of an issue. Just like the issue you mentioned - there are so many potential causes - and your issue was extra hard because the fuse tested good when you tested it! That one would have drove me crazy (as I'm sure it did you!) - just consider all of the replaced parts "preventive maintenance". :)

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