Does it make a different sound in reverse?
Maybe post a vid with the noise in it.
Could be some bushings squeaking too.

 

No it makes the same little squeak sound in forward and reverse. As I said I initially thought the brakes were bad (and mine were worn out) so I did a complete brake job (calipers, rotors, pads, hoses).

Here are some other things that have been changed, in chronological order.

1. Tie rod (drivers side)
2. Sway bar links (duralast)
3. Struts (Monroe, FRT&BCK, no spring replacement)
3. Lower control arms (cheap ones from "Detroit Auto" on amazon)
4. Wheel Bearing (ACDelco, this is where out current problem is)
5. Brakes (Calipers, hoses, pads, rotors)

After all this the squeaking continued. I opened up the brakes and checked the pads and took them out and put them back in. They are the Durlast Max pads which have a rubber shim on the back to prevent squeaks. I also used Permatex Ceramic extreme brake parts lube (purple color) where needed.

I thought maybe I didn't seat the bearing properly. I cleaned the surface really well and used anti-seize on it to prevent it from rusting on. Once you push the bearing in the hub-to-knuckle bolts when tightened should pull the bearing in place if it isn't already. Those bolts were re-used and also torqued to spec as well as lock-tite applied. It's had to mess the up the install since it's a sealed bearing and there's nothing to "press on".

How can it squeak right out of the box? Can user install error cause it? Or is it the cheap lower control arms?

Can the CV axle cause squeaking? I pushed it quite far with the tool I rented from autozone.

 

"When the boot is cracked the CV joint loses its lubrication due to the grease mixing together with the dirt and other outside junk. Many drivers complain of hearing a loud “clicking” sound when taking turns. If this is the case then we recommend you service your CV joint as soon as possible.

Tip: If upon inspection you notice no cracks or holes in the boot then do NOT attempt to remove it. The boots are designed to be airtight and if it is opened then the CV joint will definitely require servicing.

If the boot is cracked then it can cause other problems.

• Hearing squeaking sounds at low speeds
• Feeling a vibration at higher speeds
• Hearing a clicking or clunking sound when turning or shifting from park to drive"

hmmm, so it's possible it's from the cv joint. I will check it. Does it the boot have to be broken for it to squeak?

 

hmmm, so it's possible it's from the cv joint. I will check it. Does it the boot have to be broken for it to squeak?

Definitely possible but I would expect the boot to be broken before it would make any noise.
I’ve seen original axles go over 330,000 miles without the boots breaking without any issues.
So if your boots are good, I would not suspect the axles.
Another idea is that you can jack the front up, take both wheels off, and run it in drive; see if you have a noise. If so try to pinpoint it.
If you’re not comfortable with the wheels off, maybe try the same thing with the wheels on.

 

It is my experience that AC Delco is crap and definitely not the same as GM part number quality, which can also be crap, but that's a different issue.

I avoid AC parts as much as possible.

Buyer beware.

 

Squeaking from wheel



Is it impossible to have a defective bearing straight out of the box? Not likely, but it does happen. It can happen with any part. Luck of the draw, you might get the one that came out of the factory with out-of-spec components. Just curious: in what country was the AC Delco bearing manufactured? If made in China, then your odds just increased that you may have a defective bearing. I always check the country of manufacture on whatever I buy and if it says China, then I look for another part from another manufacturer, but that is just me. Been disappointed too many times, but I digress.

Since none of the forum members are there to hear your squeak, we are relying on your assumption that it is a squeak originating from the bearing because you are somewhat leading us there. Squeaks from the wheel well could also be from the strut spring seat or anywhere else in the suspension. I'd suggest jacking up the car and looking for any areas with fresh rub marks (indicative of possible unintentional wear) as well as moderately tapping the fully assembled components with a rubber mallet to attempt to replicate while you are under the car.

Sorry, not doubting you or your diagnosis, just suggesting there could be other possibilities that may or may not be at all related to the parts you disturbed.

 

SOLVED:

In short, it was that stupid dust shield. I ruled this out since it was the first thing I adjusted as soon as I heard the squeak literally 10mins after installing the new brakes. I guess somehow the shield moved back or I didn't move it far enough with the flat head screw driver.

Once the car was jacked up I looked at both sides and then then turned the tires. It became obvious where the squeaking was coming from. I have a picture.

 

SOLVED:

In short, it was that stupid dust shield. I ruled this out since it was the first thing I adjusted as soon as I heard the squeak literally 10mins after installing the new brakes. I guess somehow the shield moved back or I didn't move it far enough with the flat head screw driver.

Once the car was jacked up I looked at both sides and then then turned the tires. It became obvious where the squeaking was coming from. I have a picture.

I had the exact same problem after replacing the hub on my 2005 chevy equinox. I only noticed it when starting up at slow speed. Jacked up the front and turning the wheel even slightly forward or backwards made a high pitched squeak resonating like a violin.

 

Glad to hear! My shields squeak on reverse, but I don’t reverse enough for it to bother me

 

took me a while to get the pic uploaded, had to bring the size down. The CV boots looked fine, I checked axle nut had the same amount of threads on the axle on both sides and I had already double checked the torque. This was driving me nuts! Everytime I move through the parking lot at walmart or anywhere I go where there's people it's a squeak that everyone can hear. Like some kind of warning beep but not for reverse.

Hopefully the pic helps others on the web. Also to bend it back enough I used a mini pry bar. I had one laying around from homedepot that I got for $3 or so. It's about a 4" tool and let's you get enough leverage to bend the that metal enough, much easier than going at it with a flat head screw driver. It's the exact one I have in the pic below.

 

I find that there are GM part number parts AND ACDelco parts.

It's not like they they are made at the same GM facility, they are made by third party manufacturers and branded as AC.

Pay closer attention to offerings on Rock Auto or Amazon; there clearly is a difference, price wise. Doug's mention of 'OEM' is also seen on Rock's site, if you look for it in the list of available parts.

To illustrate this, check the country of origin.

AC is more often from less admirable country of origin.

Sure they may be technically up to standards, but I've found a GM part number to be of superior quality to other 'meet or exceed' standards.

ACDelco are in it for themselves, GM is OEM, rest assured.

 

I think I've pitched the broken pieces of a caliper brake hose mounting bolt in the trash by now, but I replaced all the brake system parts on my truck over the past month and the left front jumper hose on my '99 Silverado, and the supplied mounting bolt to the caliper broke just below the integral flanged washer bolt head, but I only found it after I went back around the vehicle checking that I had torqued all the fasteners before bleeding the system. Had I not double checked this bolt tightness, I would not have known until the hose had fallen off and while hitting the brakes in an extended cab 4X4. As soon as I put the wrench on the bolt head, the head fell off the shank, sticking in my box end wrench; I had put ZERO pressure on the fastener, and I certainly did not overtighten the bolt at assy. Had I overtightened the bolt, it would have stripped the cast iron threads out of the caliper, the bolt should have been grade 8, or at least grade 5. It broke just holding the torque it took to squash the copper washers, after I had walked away from installing it.

Bear in mind that these are HOLLOW bolts that are crossdrilled as well, but the bolt broke just under the base of the flanged hex head of the bolt where the shank was full diameter steel, clearly not heat treated and tempered as is 'meets or exceeds GM standards'.

Luckily, I saved all the brake lines, fasteners and the old master cylinder in a pile and picked one of the 19 year old GM ones and reused it.

I think the package said Indonesia.

 

Found them: