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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
what ball joints should i get for my 95 caprice lt1 its between moog or the autozone brand
anything good about the moog???

also i only have a checkers, carquest and autozone in my town any suggestions???:confused:

EDIT: OH AND A NAPA BUT ONLY 1 OF EACH STORE ( HATE LIVING IN A SMALL TOWN )
 

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Angel may have the answer you need. I am sure that George Bates Automotive shop have replaced one or two.

EDIT: Thinking about the rims and lowering kit on your car I would recommend the Moog over Auto Zones house brand. The ball joints on your car work harder than a factory setup would. Thats my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yeah im gna write him a private message but the moogs is probably what im gna get they have a lifetime warranty
 

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Discussion Starter #4
anyone anyone??????
 

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Long as you go with a name brand you will be fine. I used AC Delco stuff 6-7 years ago, it was supposed to have been improved and I figurewd the stock lasted 110K so even if it was the same. no improvement it would last a long time. I had a good hookup at a local dealership though, I did not pay list.

I would not hesitiate to use Moog.

Are you aware of the improved alignment specs??

When I did mine I did not do the control arm bushings, at this age I would recommend doing them. IMO rubber is fine, poly tends to squeek, a few friends regret it. There are more expensive options too but fresh rubber will be an improvement.
 

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Moog or OEM GM are just fine. We do enough Moog to say they are good and not a issue. The main thing is making sure you properly grease them....most places I see doing ball joints give them one or 2 squirts of grease and thats it......takes more than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nope Dont Know The Improved Specs ....
And Yeah I Thnk My Control Arm Bushings Are New

Thanx 4 The Response
 

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Discussion Starter #9
THANX I DEF WILL GIVE HIM THESE SPECS WHEN I GET MY SHIT ALIGNED..... DAMNIT AND TODAY MY MECHANIC SAID HE CANT DO MY BALL JOINTS TILL NEXT WEEK !!!!!..... AND ITS A 200 DOLLAR DEPOSIT FOR A BALL JOINT PRESSS!!!!!!!!:confused::eek: I WANT TO DO IT MYSELF BUT DONT WANT TO GET IT HALF WAY DONE THEN FIND SOMETHING I CANT DO W/ THE TOOLS I HAVE:frown::mad:
 

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When I did mine I rented the parts stor "press" is like a giant c-clamp with adapters. Around here you get the full deposit back even if the tool breaks so who cares about the $200 deposit you get it back.

This is a fair amount of work, a shadetree machanic can do it, just going to be slow and you might fling a tool or two.

Be careful going in and out of the house too, you will have grease crumbs all around the car. DON'T TRACK THEM IN THE HOUSE. :redface: You will endup spending more time cleaning carpet than you did fixing the car.
 

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Ball joints are no joke, they are a very crucial part of the car, if done wrong and they do not sit flush you can have a failure that causes total loss of control as the wheels basically caves in when it fails. If you have not done it before or if you are not comfortable with it.....have a shop do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
lol the greasy carpet situation..... yeah thats the same deposit here to id do it myself but i also think theres more wrong w my front suspension going on
250*** so getting a whole rebuild soon , im just hoping the knuckles are good to
 

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Discussion Starter #13
also w/ the 6th gens do both need to be pressed in or just the bottoms???? thanx
 

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The suspension on these things is stright out of the 70s with little changed from the 60s.

Pressed lowers and bushings, uppers are riveted, replacements bolt in.

Here is a scary thing for you, my 227K mile Roady has riveted uppers yet :eek: .
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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Here is a scary thing for you, my 227K mile Roady has riveted uppers yet :eek: .
My 32 year old car has both Riveted upper joints still in the frame. I do keep it greased up like crazy though since the boots are popped. On my van the all the old joints had 333K miles before replacement, and yes they were a little loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
lol so i went w autozone $18 a piece or so and when we tore down the lowers the hole in the steering knuckle was to small for the replacement so after a couple hours we redrilled the hole to 5/8's i wanna say ( give or take ) to fit the replacement, then the upper rubber boot ripped like 3 times trying to get the replacement in, idk wtf they were trying to give me i finally got the uppper boot to work ( stock boot because the replacement ripped ) while it was snowing outside on me i thought winter was over in colorado lol, the only reason i went w the autozone brand is because i could get new shocks also!!!! (fronts) and the idiots at checkers dont know what there talking about when it comes to police and non police parts!!!!! ....... how hard is it people i drive a 5.7 lt1 cop car ,,,,, learn your parts if ur gna work for a parts store thats not to much to ask :biggrin::eek::confused:
 

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You can't simply drill the spindle for 5/8" balljoints, it is a TAPERED hole.

The 5/8" are not really a functional upgrade either, more of a upgrade on paper.

If you really did drill the lower ball joint hole in the knuckle you ruined it.
 
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