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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Or do I need to keep a look out for it on my '16 Gen 8?

The window grid on my '10 failed before the over current thing ever became a problem, and I did do an inspection of the connectors under the kick board of front passenger foot well.

Any reports of later Gen 8's having this melted wire/connection from having no overload protection?
 

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I've heard of at least one 2013 having the issue, so I don't believe that the issue was ever fixed by GM. I was hopeful too that it was fixed in newer 8th gens (especially during the powertrain change), but that does not seem to be the case.

Thankfully, there is an easy fix if it does happen (there is a whole thread dedicated to it here on the forum). Basically, you just add a "jumper wire" to go around the connector and the issue is solved. Haven't heard of anyone having any further issues after doing the fix.

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Just fixed my 06 3.9 2 weeks ago after chasing it for awhile. They have a circuit breaker and 40amp fuse for the rear window defogger which is why I do and don't get why they didn't kick out or the fuse blow. Obviously the wire load is to much for the harness connector as anyone who's mechanically and looks at it can tell. Don't know why a overpaid engineer from GM can't solve this. I guess a bunch of them need to catch on fire or a lawyer with time on his hands needs to file a class action to force GM to fix this well documented problem as well as tge front brakes shaking on Impalas. GM is LAZY! Consumers can speak thru the dealers by not buying GM products and make it known the reason why. Then tge dealer would almost be forced to confront GM on behalf of tge customers once they lose on their bottom line otherwise the dealers could give a rats but less unless we hit them in their wallets, hence me doing my own work and the Chevy dealer not getting any of my business.

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I've heard of at least one 2013 having the issue, so I don't believe that the issue was ever fixed by GM. I was hopeful too that it was fixed in newer 8th gens (especially during the powertrain change), but that does not seem to be the case.

Thankfully, there is an easy fix if it does happen (there is a whole thread dedicated to it here on the forum). Basically, you just add a "jumper wire" to go around the connector and the issue is solved. Haven't heard of anyone having any further issues after doing the fix.

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i haven't had a rear defroster since 2010....and i lived in michigan/indiana....i have to use the front defroster on high heat for most of the trip to work to get the rear windows to defog. needless to say i end up with burnt eye balls and a partially defogged/frosted window.......now i know where to start!! THANKS!!!!
 

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Yeah, definitely search for that thread on the issue and how to fix it - it's really a pretty simple and inexpensive fix (less than $2, I think!).

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I haven't really read much about this issue cause my rear defroster has been working fine ever since I got my car almost new in 07'.
My question is; My rear defroster wouldn't work at all if the said wire had burnt up correct? I'm wondering if when my rear window was replaced if that had anything to do with it?
 

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I haven't really read much about this issue cause my rear defroster has been working fine ever since I got my car almost new in 07'.
My question is; My rear defroster wouldn't work at all if the said wire had burnt up correct? I'm wondering if when my rear window was replaced if that had anything to do with it?
Correct, it wouldn't work at all. I'm sure that not every single 8th gen Impala runs into the issue. A lot of it probably depends on how often you use the rear defroster. For example, I rarely use mine because my gar is garage kept. Other people use it every morning. Just all depends.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The grid on the window itself is delicate and just the sun can destroy it. If you put pressure on it when you clean the window, parts of it will dissolve and disappear.

There's a tricky diagnostic method where you put little foil balls on a multimeter's test prods, and check for continuity from one side to the other. Try You Tube.

Sometimes the ends come break loose where the connectors slide on, and sometimes there are breaks in the grid.

You can use a special metallic paint to fill in the gaps where the grid is broken.

From what I remember, the wire and connector size was the issue in the junction module in the side panel of the kick well, and leaving the defroster on past deice was thought to exacerbate a poorly engineered wire choice.

I think people are using 30 amp fuses and heavier wire to jumper around the melted junction block.

My gird was atrocious, and I didn't even attempt to try to repair it. I did look at the footwell junction module, and mine was fine.

That was a 2010 LT Fleet.
 

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i haven't had a rear defroster since 2010....and i lived in michigan/indiana....i have to use the front defroster on high heat for most of the trip to work to get the rear windows to defog. needless to say i end up with burnt eye balls and a partially defogged/frosted window.......now i know where to start!! THANKS!!!!

Open up the passenger side connector under the carpet and cut the rear defogger wire on both sides and re-join them outside the connector. I didn't have to add any extra wire, just clamped them together. :)
 
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