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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just learned that my LED reverse light was causing my Body Control Module (BCM) to stay away which was drawing power at a rate of 350mA and with a couple of days it would drain my battery to the point where it wouldnt start. I used these bulbs for 6 months before any issue came about

I never knew this could happen with LED bulbs but something to do with the circuitry in the bulb that feed enough feedback to the BCM to stay awake.

Has anyone ever witnessed this or had any experience this? Is there something I did wrong with the setup. Someone mentioned that LED bulb needed a rely to avoid the extra connection for the BCM to detect.

I didn't buy a brand name LED bulb but the bulb I used was the same I have used in the past without issues (occasional bulb failure).

IT WOULD HAVE BEEN GREAT IF IN THE MANUAL IS STATES LED BULBS CAN CAUSE ISSUES

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I just learned that my LED reverse light was causing my Body Control Module (BCM) to stay away which was drawing power at a rate of 350mA and with a couple of days it would drain my battery to the point where it wouldnt start. I used these bulbs for 6 months before any issue came about.
What year is your car? If I can find a drawing, I want to see how the backup lights are wired on this.

The only drawing I've seen so far (one for my 2007 Impala) doesn't show any features on the backup lights circuit that might cause a battery draw.

But I have seen a wiring diagram somewhere that showed a strange connection which, IIRC, used a light bulb (incandescent) as a "pull-up" on something else, but I can't recall the details. (A pull-up provides a weak bias on a wire to pull it up to the rail (+12V), or to ground, in the case of a "pull-down".) Anyway, something like that might could cause a current draw if the incandescent bulb was replaced with an LED.

Doug

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Why should the manual warn you about putting LED lights in where they weren't before? You should be using the same type of bulbs the factory put in. If you want to use something not approved don't blame someone else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It specify bulb type. Doesnt say use OEM products or specific brand just specific bulb type. When you pick a new bulb it usually states proper bulb type...when you go to the auto parts store there are a out 4 different bulbs that are type 7440/7443/194 etc..... how would the general public know which one to purchase? Sales person could try and upcharge the unsuspecting customer to an LED bulb versus filament.

Im not blaming the manual just stating if not all bulbs can be used it should be noted. A simple * would work

Why would there be a market for LED bulbs if they cant be used in a vehicle.

When buy tires do you get the exact same brand, speed rating, performance category? Probably not, close to most specs but not exact
 

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Pay no mind to impaler. That is pretty much his MO here, as well as his years over on the Malibu forum. Easier to just ignore, rather than engage.
 

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Why would there be a market for LED bulbs if they cant be used in a vehicle.
I have ALL LED's and no issues. The biggest problem with the LED bulbs is the cheap non-quality manufacturing of them. You get what you pay for sometimes. You stated you bought no-name LED's, maybe it would work a bit better if you bought some error-free CANBUS bulbs instead of generic crap. JUST my opinion.

edit* These are the bulbs I bought and installed Amazon.com: JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright Max 30W Canbus Error Free 7440 7441 Cree LED Bulbs ,Xenon White: Automotive

If you look at them in the pictures you will see they only have 1 contact per side, unlike the ones you were using that have 2 contacts. That is the difference between a 7440 and 7443 bulb. The extra pins are likely what were causing you an issue. If you want to try yours again, bend over the pins on the left to the opposite side of the bulb. You will then have 2 pins on the right hand side of the base on each side of the bulb. Unfortunately most manufacturers consider the 7443 and 7440 interchangeable but t hey do not work this way in this vehicle.

Once again here is an image showing the difference between 7443 and 7440 bulbs.
 
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It specify bulb type. Doesnt say use OEM products or specific brand just specific bulb type. When you pick a new bulb it usually states proper bulb type...when you go to the auto parts store there are a out 4 different bulbs that are type 7440/7443/194 etc..... how would the general public know which one to purchase? Sales person could try and upcharge the unsuspecting customer to an LED bulb versus filament.

Im not blaming the manual just stating if not all bulbs can be used it should be noted. A simple * would work

Why would there be a market for LED bulbs if they cant be used in a vehicle.

When buy tires do you get the exact same brand, speed rating, performance category? Probably not, close to most specs but not exact
Nope I don't always buy the same exact tires. I do put aftermarket stuff on my vehicles and there is nothing wrong with that. Just saying the manual is not always going to warn you of every aftermarket thing you can put on. If someone wants to put something aftermarket on their car then that's up to them and they do so at their own risk, just don't expect the manual to warn you of everything you could possibly do or it would be the thickest book known to man and nobody would read it and we know most don't even read them now.

Appreciate the warning but the all caps at the end of your post is what I am referring to.
 

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I've learned my lesson with cheap, shitty bulbs. I am not even very fond of Super Bright LEDs. I have had good luck with Sylvania LEDs which can be found at Walmart and most parts stores. They are more expensive but I feel they are better made and some have a lifetime warranty on them.
 

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The same thing happened to me. I bought LED reverse bulbs from Diode Dynamics and it killed my battery twice. Bought the correct bulb and bent the wires over to correctly match the oem lights. They didn't have that faint glow when the car was off like some others complained about but it just slowly killed my battery. Kind of sucks. Probably going to end up returning everything. Function over From.


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Why screw around swapping exterior bulbs for LEDs for no added functionality? To reduce maintenance costs?....dozens of family vehicles and never had to replace a reverse lamp and maybe half a dozen tail and marker lights. Stock incadescents put out more than enough light for the reverse camera at night. Dash bulbs are a different matter.....always a PITA to replace, but no longer they now are all stock LEDs.

Headlamps? LEDs/HID conversion not cost effective in the 16+ which can take Sylvania 9005 zXe xenons with the same color and brightness as HIDs with no ballasts or fans to fail. The cost and easy 5 minute replacement (10 with a beer break) make a yearly replacement cost effective for their easy plug and play functionality.

But, the addition of LEDs for DRL/fogs in LS/LT lines are a definite improvement because they provide both appearance and functionality. When hooked up directly to an ign-on power source they operate at full brightness as stock Impala LTZ/Premiere's DRLs during the day and its missing fog lamps at night. Even provide added functionality over the LTZ/Premier's stock DRLs which dim the LEDs when the headlamps are lighted making them useless as fogs at night. Actually work well as fogs when at full brightness putting out twice the light of the optional LED fogs (with half the LEDs) on my Silverado, and even side lighting in turns!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well I prefer a brighter light when reversing and feel that adds safety to my driving experience so......yeah its worth it to me. Does the OEM put out enough, yes but do I like it brighter, yes. Plus do you like the look of 2.5k color lights? I don't care for them versus 5-6k color. I guess modifying your own car is still a personal taste.
 

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The same thing happened to me. I bought LED reverse bulbs from Diode Dynamics and it killed my battery twice. Bought the correct bulb and bent the wires over to correctly match the oem lights. They didn't have that faint glow when the car was off like some others complained about but it just slowly killed my battery. Kind of sucks. Probably going to end up returning everything. Function over From.


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Yeah the diode dynamic LED's are incorrect and will kill the battery. Emailed them about it some time ago stating they need to change the bulb as it causes issues. Tell them the same thing and hopefully they realize that it is a common issue.

Did you try bending over the leads on the diode dynamic versions? I have not gotten around to doing that and simply replaced the bulbs back with incandescents for now.
 

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I think it's pretty understandable why LTZ owners want led reverse bulbs and led license plate bulbs. It's for consistency. The DRLs are 6000K, the HIDs are 6000K, the puddle lights are 6000K. Chevy just went cheap with the backend so I'm making it match the rest of the exterior lights as it should. It's a thing that just drives some people crazy who like consistency. Lol.


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I think it's pretty understandable why LTZ owners want led reverse bulbs and led license plate bulbs. It's for consistency. The DRLs are 6000K, the HIDs are 6000K, the puddle lights are 6000K. Chevy just went cheap with the backend so I'm making it match the rest of the exterior lights as it should. It's a thing that just drives some people crazy who like consistency. Lol.


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Ever consider that the reason the rear backup lights remain incandescent is because the identical backup camera is used on all LS/LT/LTZ lines and it is color balanced for best viewing with the stock incandescent lighting ?
 

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So many people worry about colors of lights these days it seems and give it more precedence than performance. If the light has good performance and is the pretty color you like then ok but if not then don't change it just to look pretty. Not saying anyone in this thread is like that but on other forums in the past I've read of some people slapping in lights that don't perform that well but they love the color. How ridiculous is that?
 
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