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Hi all I was hoping somebody could please give me links and/or advice on the best way to add a sub to my car. I never have done this before but I’m sure it’s something I can do. I just want to make sure I purchase everything I need beforehand. I’m planning on getting a powered 10” sub ( I’m not looking to shake the neighbors windows but want to give my factory head unit some punch)

I just need a bit more base to make everything sound better.

Thanks!!
 

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Crutchfield.com has lots of information and articles and of course, products to sell. Go to that web site and enter your vehicle information and it will return recommendations on what works to add an amplified sub for your Impala.

Generally, most amps (including amplified subwoofers) accept high level inputs (i.e. direct speaker output from your radio) so a LOC (line output converter) is not needed. You should be able to tap into the rear speaker wires and feed that to your amplified subwoofer*. These units can sense when audio is playing and turn on automatically so that saves you from running a turn-on wire or a switch. You will of course have to supply the amp with power, which means running a fused power cable from the battery to the trunk. A not-too-expensive amp wiring kit should have everything you need.

*Some factory radios apply equalization that eliminates some of the bass for the stock speakers. In this case a better approach is to use a product that acts like a line out converter, but restores the missing bass.
 

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Hi all I was hoping somebody could please give me links and/or advice on the best way to add a sub to my car. I never have done this before but I’m sure it’s something I can do. I just want to make sure I purchase everything I need beforehand. I’m planning on getting a powered 10” sub ( I’m not looking to shake the neighbors windows but want to give my factory head unit some punch)

I just need a bit more base to make everything sound better.

Thanks!!
i got this,

go to my garage photos, I have pics of the subs I put in
I highly recomend using the audio control LC2i, i had a regular LOC and it sucked
 

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and problem is with our car, the seats are so thick you need to have a bit of a more powerful system or you wont be able to hear it well with the seats up.

I recomend a 12" rockford fosgate P3D2-12 sub ($130 or so), with an external amp, the rockford fosgate prime 1200-1d ($240) works perfect with this sub, and that audio control device. GO TO AN AUDIO SHOP and have them make a box custom fit for your car and get it ported and tuned for that subwoofer (this will be around $130 or so). 4 awg wire kit for the battery run to the trunk,

you'll also need a fuse adaptor to tap into factory fuse holder for remote turn on signal.
 

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Crutchfield.com has lots of information and articles and of course, products to sell. Go to that web site and enter your vehicle information and it will return recommendations on what works to add an amplified sub for your Impala.

Generally, most amps (including amplified subwoofers) accept high level inputs (i.e. direct speaker output from your radio) so a LOC (line output converter) is not needed. You should be able to tap into the rear speaker wires and feed that to your amplified subwoofer*. These units can sense when audio is playing and turn on automatically so that saves you from running a turn-on wire or a switch. You will of course have to supply the amp with power, which means running a fused power cable from the battery to the trunk. A not-too-expensive amp wiring kit should have everything you need.

*Some factory radios apply equalization that eliminates some of the bass for the stock speakers. In this case a better approach is to use a product that acts like a line out converter, but restores the missing bass.
the factory signals are separated if you have bose in the car for sure. you are 100% correct here. on the rear deck speakers you will find a wire harness connecting them. one for tweeter sound and one for bass sound. MAKE SURE you tap into the bottom set of wires on the wire harness. you can also tap into the wires by the amplifier. I have a diagram in my garage photos that shows at the amplifier what speakers are were. tapping into either the front door or the rear deck speakers will get you that bass signal you're looking for.

***side note*** metra is soon to come out with a t-harness that will bypass the amplifier all together. I will be getting one when they release them. this will pick up a full range signal before it hits the amplifier and you'll have a MUCH better signal. I'm told this piece will be around $400 or so. I'll put something up when this comes out (the part number for this is AX-DSP-MOST1)
 

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Here’s some photos of my amp wiring for reference






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Here’s the wire harness layout for the Bose amp

This is on my 2015 2Lt with Bose. You can tap the wires at the factory amplifier, it’s in the trunk passenger side, it’s silver, and the wiring plugs you want are on the trunk side of the amp.

IMG_8013.JPG


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Here’s the amp location behind the carpet in the trunk, silver unit only is what you’re looking for


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Here’s the subs themselves

Rockford fosgate power t1 12” dual 4 ohm


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Another cool idea,

Add an iPad to your stereo using a cup holder mount




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Can someone tell me which wire to cut to get rid of active noise canelation. It’s in my 2017 Impala non Bose system. Thanks
 

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Another cool idea,

Add an iPad to your stereo using a cup holder mount




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
See, to me, that is exactly the type of thing that I want to avoid... I want to be able to do everything via my headunt touchscreen without special "add-on" mounts or devices. Isn't that the whole point of a touchscreen head-unit? Although, the newer cars are at a major disadvantage here since you can't easily just replace the head-unit itself with a unit that does exactly what you want, which sucks. I hate that head-units are becoming so "specific" to the car. While it may be cool when the car is new (assuming it does everything you want), you are stuck with that head-unit forever, even after the tech is outdated... I wish GM went back to more "standard" type head-units so that people could easily install whatever head-unit they wanted...
 

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The reason I do the iPad thing is ease of changing songs. The head unit does not have pandora or iHeartRadio or even Spotify. Yes it has many features but I like the iPad there. I run a business so for me quick internet access anywhere I go is a must.


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Yours doesn't have Pandora? Our Impala has it on the touchscreen. Odd.
 

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Eh I never tried it lol. I use Spotify, because Spotify has the best sound in it (better sound files)


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See, to me, that is exactly the type of thing that I want to avoid... I want to be able to do everything via my headunt touchscreen without special "add-on" mounts or devices. Isn't that the whole point of a touchscreen head-unit? Although, the newer cars are at a major disadvantage here since you can't easily just replace the head-unit itself with a unit that does exactly what you want, which sucks. I hate that head-units are becoming so "specific" to the car. While it may be cool when the car is new (assuming it does everything you want), you are stuck with that head-unit forever, even after the tech is outdated... I wish GM went back to more "standard" type head-units so that people could easily install whatever head-unit they wanted...


Technically the head unit ‘does’ do everything I would need. I just like the iPad thing. I run a business so i have Internet and access to emails right away when needed. I do a ton of traveling too.

The iPad adds more function to what’s already there.

U can swap out your head unit now as opposed to recent past. But it is costly of course. The dash kit and the vehicle integration pieces you need can be more than the head unit itself.


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Will any LOC work? Any suggestions?
I have a 2015 impala lt. I just installed a mono block 600 watt at 2 ohms and a single dvc 12. I hooked ot straight to aux battery in trunk with no problems. This is where it gets tricky... because the infotainment centet is sending a data signal to factory amp you have to hook your loc at amps output going to the front door 6x9 woofers that is the only place you will get the lower frequency. Luckily everything is in the trunk. NOTE.... YOU MUST ALSO CLIP THE NOISE CACILATION WIRE AT THE AMP OUTPUT... OR IT WILL CANCEL ALL THE BASS OUT... TRUST ME I RESEARCHED FOR 2 MONTHS THEN CROSS CHECKED IT WITH CRUTCHFIELD THEY ARE VERY HELPFUL. There are 4 plugs at back of factory amp which is on passenger side of trunk. Everything is ran through the amp. Door chimes onstar . Best advice is to take your time and get a wire harness from CRUTCHFIELD that you plug into amp and it gives you right and left chan wires DONT CUT YOUR FACTORY WIRES.... AMATEUR MOVE. GOOD LUCK. BTW ALOT OF PEOPLE DIDNT THINK THE SMALL AUXILIARY AGM BATTERY IN TRUNK COULD PUSH A AMP. BUT 6 MONTHS ITS BEEN HOOKED UP.....
 
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