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Two minor problems (Horn switch/Driverside Cig lighter)

798 Views 0 Replies 1 Participant Last post by  xPreatorianx
Hello there, seeking help as I'm trying to get everything on my Impala fixed. Not major issues mind you, but I'm trying to get this car as brand new as I can get it. (Plus horn is a safety issue and the Cig lighter is due to me signing up for Uber.)

Model of my car before I proceed : 2005 Chevrolet Impala 3.8L 231CI V6 FI VIN: K (The police model. Has all the horrible wiring that comes with it.)

First problem : Horn hasn't worked since I bought this vehicle from a mechanic. Of course that means, I had to pay the mechanic to get state inspection done. Ya, one of those deals. I replaced the horn fuse, relay, and replacing horns as well. As one I KNOW doesn't work. But, considering my father in law tested the voltages, etc. We believe the horn switch is bad. On the actual steering wheel. I cannot for the life of me find what that means. Is it an actual switch? A contact? Is it attached to the airbag? Clock spring? What? A part number or actual picture would be amazing! Nothing on the web/youtube points right to what controls the horn on the steering wheel. I've spent hours searching. Considering I'm going to pick a part tomorrow to harvest parts for this vehicle. (Horns, plus new seatbelts, and other non-critical parts. Well critical to the car functioning properly.) I'd like to know the information beforehand so I have an idea what part I need to harvest. Or get someone else to harvest.

Failing that, considering I'm personally a horrible car mechanic. How easy is it to wire a custom horn switch from say Advanced auto, using the OEM horns? I have a spare horn relay. So what's the best way to leave everything as stock as possible but just completing the connection between the OEM horns/OEM connector to the horns, and just wiring up the aftermarket switch? Again besides doing a T-splice on the positive wire to the horn connector. I want to leave EVERYTHING as stock as possible on this car. In case that doesn't work and I need to seek OEM replacement. That means keeping the OEM connectors. I don't want to cut the connector and use wires for everything. Simply because, if the job fails, I want a reputable mechanic (if I need to resort to that) to be able to replace everything back to stock without charging an arm n a leg.

Second problem: This car has two cig ports. Passenger side and Driverside. Passenger side works like a dream. Will power anything I plug into it. Driverside? Blows the fuse. What does that mean? I've went through 3 fuses testing it. All rated properly. (For clarification it's the fuse on the passenger fusebox that blows.) Is it the socket itself? Is there a way to test that? Or could it be that due to all the aftermarket modification on this car there could be a short somewhere? There's ALOT of wiring in the engine compartment that is routed into fuse boxes, terminated to non-capped wires, etc. It's a mess. (One I fully realize I'll eventually have to get a reputable mechanic to look at and fix. I just know considering the mess, it's probably going to be expensive and considering the car works except for these minor issues. Not something I need to invest in at this current moment. But it is a goal. As I eventually want this car fully restored as I'm in love with it.)

Hopefully these issues can be solved. Again, I did get the car passed via inspection. (New inspector) but he said this is the last year the car will see a pass unless the horn issue is fixed. He only did it because my father-in-law decided not to inform me before going. That a messed up horn equals fail. This guy is legit and I'd like to get this issue fixed.

Likewise, the cig lighter issue isn't top priority but a convience factor considering I plan on using the vehicle for Uber. So being able to run my Dashcam through passenger cig lighter, and phone charger through the non-working driver cig lighter would be preferable. (Plus be able to give passengers the ability to charge their phones when needed.)
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