Hello there, seeking help as I'm trying to get everything on my Impala fixed. Not major issues mind you, but I'm trying to get this car as brand new as I can get it. (Plus horn is a safety issue and the Cig lighter is due to me signing up for Uber.)
Model of my car before I proceed : 2005 Chevrolet Impala 3.8L 231CI V6 FI VIN: K (The police model. Has all the horrible wiring that comes with it.)
First problem : Horn hasn't worked since I bought this vehicle from a mechanic. Of course that means, I had to pay the mechanic to get state inspection done. Ya, one of those deals. I replaced the horn fuse, relay, and replacing horns as well. As one I KNOW doesn't work. But, considering my father in law tested the voltages, etc. We believe the horn switch is bad. On the actual steering wheel. I cannot for the life of me find what that means. Is it an actual switch? A contact? Is it attached to the airbag? Clock spring? What? A part number or actual picture would be amazing! Nothing on the web/youtube points right to what controls the horn on the steering wheel. I've spent hours searching. Considering I'm going to pick a part tomorrow to harvest parts for this vehicle. (Horns, plus new seatbelts, and other non-critical parts. Well critical to the car functioning properly.) I'd like to know the information beforehand so I have an idea what part I need to harvest. Or get someone else to harvest.
Failing that, considering I'm personally a horrible car mechanic. How easy is it to wire a custom horn switch from say Advanced auto, using the OEM horns? I have a spare horn relay. So what's the best way to leave everything as stock as possible but just completing the connection between the OEM horns/OEM connector to the horns, and just wiring up the aftermarket switch? Again besides doing a T-splice on the positive wire to the horn connector. I want to leave EVERYTHING as stock as possible on this car. In case that doesn't work and I need to seek OEM replacement. That means keeping the OEM connectors. I don't want to cut the connector and use wires for everything. Simply because, if the job fails, I want a reputable mechanic (if I need to resort to that) to be able to replace everything back to stock without charging an arm n a leg.
Second problem: This car has two cig ports. Passenger side and Driverside. Passenger side works like a dream. Will power anything I plug into it. Driverside? Blows the fuse. What does that mean? I've went through 3 fuses testing it. All rated properly. (For clarification it's the fuse on the passenger fusebox that blows.) Is it the socket itself? Is there a way to test that? Or could it be that due to all the aftermarket modification on this car there could be a short somewhere? There's ALOT of wiring in the engine compartment that is routed into fuse boxes, terminated to non-capped wires, etc. It's a mess. (One I fully realize I'll eventually have to get a reputable mechanic to look at and fix. I just know considering the mess, it's probably going to be expensive and considering the car works except for these minor issues. Not something I need to invest in at this current moment. But it is a goal. As I eventually want this car fully restored as I'm in love with it.)
Hopefully these issues can be solved. Again, I did get the car passed via inspection. (New inspector) but he said this is the last year the car will see a pass unless the horn issue is fixed. He only did it because my father-in-law decided not to inform me before going. That a messed up horn equals fail. This guy is legit and I'd like to get this issue fixed.
Likewise, the cig lighter issue isn't top priority but a convience factor considering I plan on using the vehicle for Uber. So being able to run my Dashcam through passenger cig lighter, and phone charger through the non-working driver cig lighter would be preferable. (Plus be able to give passengers the ability to charge their phones when needed.)