I have a 2008 Impala ss. I'm on my third transmission. It always baffled me that Chevy, GM, installed the same transmission that was used in all V6 Impala models that was used in the Impala ss that is equipped with the 5.3 V8. As I said this is the third transmission. GM did the right thing and warrantied my transmissions issues. I am being exceptionally rough on the latest transmission in my car, I'm wondering if anyone knows if GM did any upgrades on the re-manufactured trannys? This transmission I've been running in the car for two years now has been problem free, slip free. I downshift the transmission at high and low speeds with no issues whatsoever. I'm kind of waiting for the other shoe to drop.
smoothchrome
Get a good reman from Dave at Triple Edge along with a new torque converter when yours blows up. His rebuilds actually last. http://www.tripleedgeperformance.com/GM_High_Performance_4T65E.html
Install the updated pan magnets according to the TSB. GM TSB 08-07-30-040C http://www.impalaforums.com/chevy-i...gen-discussion/484562-2010-impala-lt-weird-transmission-shifts.html#post1212329
Install a Low Pressure Drop self regulating plate cooler, after the radiator trans cooler in the fluid return line, to get your temps down from 200°F to 230°F into the much more reasonable 160°F to 180°F range.
Install a transmission drain plug in your stock pan so you can drain and refill every 10-20K miles along with the engine oil.
Install a Real Australian made Magnefine transmission filter in the fluid return from the cooler. Avoid the China made counterfeits from Raybestos etc they are cheap crap. This accomplishes three things.
1-- It'll catch the pieces of the old trans before they destroy your new unit and the magnet will catch all the iron that's poisoning the shift, torque converter clutch, and pressure control solenoids.
2-- It's a real filter that can be changed every time you drain and refill the trans pan.
3-- Since it's a real 25 micron filter the 100 micron pickup strainer will not need service so you won't have to drop the pan when you change out the trans fluid.
DON'T bother with synthetic fluid. Despite the hype it's not better than Dexron VI for these transmissions. Dexron VI is what these transmissions call for. It's not expensive or hard to find. Use it.
Install the updated pan magnets according to the TSB. GM TSB 08-07-30-040C http://www.impalaforums.com/chevy-i...gen-discussion/484562-2010-impala-lt-weird-transmission-shifts.html#post1212329
Install a Low Pressure Drop self regulating plate cooler, after the radiator trans cooler in the fluid return line, to get your temps down from 200°F to 230°F into the much more reasonable 160°F to 180°F range.
Install a transmission drain plug in your stock pan so you can drain and refill every 10-20K miles along with the engine oil.
Install a Real Australian made Magnefine transmission filter in the fluid return from the cooler. Avoid the China made counterfeits from Raybestos etc they are cheap crap. This accomplishes three things.
1-- It'll catch the pieces of the old trans before they destroy your new unit and the magnet will catch all the iron that's poisoning the shift, torque converter clutch, and pressure control solenoids.
2-- It's a real filter that can be changed every time you drain and refill the trans pan.
3-- Since it's a real 25 micron filter the 100 micron pickup strainer will not need service so you won't have to drop the pan when you change out the trans fluid.
DON'T bother with synthetic fluid. Despite the hype it's not better than Dexron VI for these transmissions. Dexron VI is what these transmissions call for. It's not expensive or hard to find. Use it.
Heat along with crud and Iron particles that flow right through the 110 micron pickup strainer are the main 4T65E-HD killers.
220°F will kill a transmission in around 40,000-60,000 miles. Add fluctuating line pressures from iron poisoned control solenoid coils and heat and crud from iron poisoned converter clutch solenoids you have a recipe for a transmission that only lasts 30,000-50,000 miles. Coincidentally this seems to be about the lifespan of many of the 4T65E transmissions in the 06-10 cars.
I still have the original 4T65E-HD in my 2009 Impala SS... I have a little over 40,000 miles on her and I have no issues at all.
What did I do before I got to 10,000 miles?
Install a 25 micron filter with a Magnet in the low temp return line and change it on 10K intervals after swapping out the first one at between 3K & 5K.
Install the TSB magnets in the pan and on the strainer.
Install a drain plug in the pan that will allow easy fluid swaps at 10K or 20K intervals. No need to change the strainer when you have an easy to change filter that's 4x more efficient.
Install a decent plate oil cooler for the fluid so it doesn't run at engine coolant temp of 200°F to 220°F and more.
220°F will kill a transmission in around 40,000-60,000 miles. Add fluctuating line pressures from iron poisoned control solenoid coils and heat and crud from iron poisoned converter clutch solenoids you have a recipe for a transmission that only lasts 30,000-50,000 miles. Coincidentally this seems to be about the lifespan of many of the 4T65E transmissions in the 06-10 cars.
I still have the original 4T65E-HD in my 2009 Impala SS... I have a little over 40,000 miles on her and I have no issues at all.
What did I do before I got to 10,000 miles?
Install a 25 micron filter with a Magnet in the low temp return line and change it on 10K intervals after swapping out the first one at between 3K & 5K.
Install the TSB magnets in the pan and on the strainer.
Install a drain plug in the pan that will allow easy fluid swaps at 10K or 20K intervals. No need to change the strainer when you have an easy to change filter that's 4x more efficient.
Install a decent plate oil cooler for the fluid so it doesn't run at engine coolant temp of 200°F to 220°F and more.
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