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Following as well 2011 LS 165k Slip Bang shift

Car is new to me at 150k. Trans started doing the slip then grab shift from stop. Very intermittent but happens more consistent if roll and go (not a complete stop). I changed all the cars fluids as I want to know whats in it. Trans fluid was darker. Did the Doorman pan swap to add drain plug, new filter, added second magnet, re-filled with AC DELCO DEXRON VI. Two days later added one bottle of lucas trans fix (did not overfill it).

I have no code and it drives great on the highway. Should I have a shop scan it to make sure?

I am capable of replacing the solenoids and it seems like it can be done on the car. Seen a few kits on AMAZON. Any reccomendations?
Gotta have this car at least a few years as divorce really limits budget.... And its a good size/fit for me.

Thanks
William
 

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...solenoids and it seems like it can be done on the car. Seen a few kits on AMAZON. Any reccomendations?
No 1st hand experience with replacing the solenoids, but the TransGo shift kit was well worth the money. It doesn't make the car shift "harder", but shifts are much quicker than stock. A mild tune to increase the line pressure, change shift points and increase shift firmness also helps.
 

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I saw that kit as well and watched a youtube about it.
On the Tune, can it be done thorough a scan tool at a shop? I do not have any scanner or tuner modules. I have seen mention of HP tune but I don't know what it is.
 

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Slushboxes don't last forever. Between 150,000 and 200,000 miles is quite a lot. However you can probably get more life out of it if it's not slipping more than maybe 10% of the time.

These are symptoms of iron poisoned pressure control and shift solenoids. If you have the ability I recommend you change them.

Have you folks done the pan magnet TSB?

The other thing I'd recommend is a Magnefine transmission fluid filter in the return line from the transmission cooler loop in the radiator.
Change the transmission fluid and strainer in 1,000 mile intervals at least twice. This will get you down to a low concentration of 150,000 mile Dexron VI and get rid of a bunch of the filth as well.
Change the Magnefine filter every 1,000 miles three or four times to filter out the loose crud and catch any loose iron or til you get a reasonably clean filter then change it every engine oil change. This will filter the crud out of the transmission fluid without shaking a bunch of sludge loose like a machine would.

Pipe cutters will crack open spin on and inline oil filter cans without making a mess like die grinders or hacksaws. I picked up a Ridgid 4S at a yard sale for $20...
 

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I have added the second magnet. Two new ones to be exact, onto my new Doorman pan with drain. I haven't done more fluid changes yet. Those tuner sites are a bit hard to understand. Can anyone who uses it share what they have? Estimated cost would be cool as well.
 

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Cont... also, I went to the Transgo site and they only list 1997-2008 for the 4T65E... I checked Autozone and O'Reilly and they don't have anything. How do I know what to order/if it will fit?

edit... Website was weird, I downloaded the Transgo catalog and it says 1997-on. So I should be good.

Still looking at the tune option but...
Going to get the following from TransGo:
SK 4T65E
4T65-ACM

IF I ever drop the transmission I will also get 4T65-AFL. Will also replace valve body plates and solenoids. Only option after that is a rebuild or recon.

Thanks
William
 

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Servicing your transmission on a regular basis helps. I change my filter and fluid every 40k miles. I never have any flush done, as it may force contaminants into the shift solenoids and cause problems like you describe. I have a 2009 LTZ with 180k miles which I bought new. Absolutely no transmission issues so far. It still shifts like new.
 

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Slipping...

Sounds like his pump is shot. It's not as bad as you think. I don't believe in having a ratchet monkey do any service to your car if it's not necessary, especially transmission flushes. Half of the time even the filter screens they use are not as good as or even in spec with the OEM. I'd run her until the clutch pistons blow out their bore. I kind of like the chirp of clutches with their last 64th or two of meat on them, but I'm sick like that. A good guy can probably even get a set of clutches for it and smell his way through his spares and only charge you for the new ones he uses. Should come in under $900.
 

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>>> wjk

150,000 is a lot and line pressures should be checked, brown fluid does mean burnt clutches, but personally I would not screw with the t/b as a fix in that you would be lucky to get extra miles out of her with that. Get a new pump, get the planetary out, if it's not throwing codes, it should be good for another 45,000 after that. GL
 

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Check the lower engine mount and transmission mount. Both of mine are bad and will be replaced soon. A transmission expert drove my car and realized it was the mounts and not a bad transmission. The powertrain rocking can seem like a bad trans.
 
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anyone know how much one should expect to pay to get the PCS changed?
How many miles are on your transmission?
As of April 1st 2020 Triple Edge Performance isn't remanufacturing them anymore. Dave was the goto guy for high quality remanufacturing or high performance builds of the 4T65E so it's really unfortunate he's no longer doing them.

Dave remanufactured the transmissions not just rebuilt them. The difference is the longevity of the final product.
-Rebuilt means the transmission is torn down and worn parts that are out of tolerance are replaced with new or used parts and the transmission is re-assembled. If some parts are close to out of tolerance they might not replace them. Any testing is usually the road test after it's re-installed. THe torque converter might or might not be replaced.
-Remanufactured means the transmission is torn down, all known issues, either known to the expert rebuilder or known in the industry or released in service bulletins from GM, are taken care of with the proper updated parts or modifications. Then the transmission is re-assembled and tested with a rebuilt or new torque converter. Essentially better than new.

If it's getting long in the tooth and you're paying to have it serviced I'd look into getting a quality remanufacturing job done by an outfit that's sure enough of the quality of their work that they give at least an 18month 24,000 mile warranty.
 

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09 LT Transmission issue, any advice?

Bought car 3 years ago with 120k like others said occasionally not to often from stop car will creep forward then jerk into first gear. Not usually a violent jerk very mild but on occasion was more violent. Changed filter and fluid at 120k (May have been cars first time) has done this off and on for 3 years. Now I’m at 170k does it more often now but still not a every time thing...
My question is if anyone been in the same boat before do you think It’s possible for this thing to make it to 200k without it going on me. Should I change fluid and filter again to try to prolong it? Or at this point just ride it out till it goes. Not really trying to spend money fixing it however still drives decent and wouldn’t mind getting another year out of it.
 

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09 LT Transmission issue, any advice?

Bought car 3 years ago with 120k like others said occasionally not to often from stop car will creep forward then jerk into first gear. Not usually a violent jerk very mild but on occasion was more violent. Changed filter and fluid at 120k (May have been cars first time) has done this off and on for 3 years. Now I’m at 170k does it more often now but still not a every time thing...
My question is if anyone been in the same boat before do you think It’s possible for this thing to make it to 200k without it going on me. Should I change fluid and filter again to try to prolong it? Or at this point just ride it out till it goes. Not really trying to spend money fixing it however still drives decent and wouldn’t mind getting another year out of it.
Just keep driving it. Don't bother changing fluid again.
 

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If you can't do the work yourself the labor will cost about the same to replace the solenoids as the R&R labor on a reman.
I would guess you'll get another 10-30K miles out of just the solenoids.
10K ain't worth it when you're paying someone else. 30K might be but it's a crapshoot that you'd get that many.
 
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