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Hello guys need some help with my 2006 Impala ss looked on the forum and i was not able to find the problem I was having. If i happened to have overlooked it I am sorry.i have a 2006 Impala SS is has 120,000 miles on The car has a hard time shifting from first to second gear it slips and eventually goes into second gear. After that it shifts like normal which is kinda weird. It only does this when i first take off. So after that when i stop and drive it shifts like normal until it sits for a lil bit then i try to drive it does it again
 

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The 06-12 impalas had the 4 speed trans that's known for that, from my understanding you can do a fluid and filter change (NOT flush it will mess it up more) or its possible solenoid
 

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That sounds like a low line pressure problem, first gear asks for a lot of pressure from the transmission pump as that's when your under the highest load. Usually I've heard and experienced the pressure control solenoid getting saturated in metal particles as it's magnetic, the bad part is the solonoid is in the side cover of the transmission and I hard to get too.

You can do a transmission pan drop and add a second magnet, just make sure that you clean off the pan and current magnet really well and hopefully that should start cleaning out everything. If you still have a lot of slip off the line you'll want to have the line pressure confirmed and figure out if or not that you didn't cook a clutch and/or band.

Hope this helps
 

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You can always get a performance transmission upgrade kit from TEP. :D
 

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With all the transmission issues and posts on this site I have chosen this most recent one to add to.

Yesterday ( March 7th 2015) My 2006 LTZ with 108,000 Km ( 67000 Mi ) started to clunk from a stop. It happened once pulling into a parking lot and again on the ride home leaving a stop light. It does not do it every time. When I got home I checked the fluid level and it was correct. The oil is clean and has no smell of being burnt. I got back into the car and placed it in drive and held my foot on the brake and torqued it a bit. It clunked again. I took it for a drive and it did not clunk at all. Today after I pulled out of the garage it clunked again. Until yesterday there was never any indication of anything wrong with the transmission.
A little history on the car. The wife drives it 90% of the time. She does not drive it hard. It gets driven every day just not very far. This is likely harder on the trans than highway driving or long trips.
A search of the internet provided me with the link to this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVpIFS-LjQ4

This guy seems very knowledgeable about this transmission and I even reached out to him in a question describing what I was experiencing and his thoughts is that its the input piston. This requires a full rebuild. If you watch the video you will see where the "kit" is described, and the very problem as described is caused by this piston wearing around one edge.
I also believe that Kingnuttin stated that the dreaded "clunk" from stop was terminal and that a hard rebuild would be necessary. ( it's in one of the many MANY previous posts )

I am off to the transmission shop in the morning to get a price on a rebuild.
I am expecting it to start somewhere north of $3500.00.

If a new PCS will do a temporary fix then this thing is GONE !
I will trade it. As it's an 06 and 9 years old ( albeit mint condition) it aint worth nothing anyway. I truly believe that this is the beginning of countless problems to follow.
Just a hunch.

I will post more when I know what up.

PMO !

:gaah:
 

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The 06-12 impalas had the 4 speed trans that's known for that, from my understanding you can do a fluid and filter change (NOT flush it will mess it up more) or its possible solenoid
make that all Impalas 2000-2012
 

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Update:
Went to trans shop this morning. ( it's a shop I trust with a great rep) Talked to the owner. He agrees that the input pistons are problematic with these and has repaired a good many of them for the taxi fleet. He said that an oil and filter change would do nothing at this point. Once the pressure is spiking like this it's time to get into the valve body and have a look at the spacer plate seals. (echos almost exactly what the guy in the video states) He is also optimistic that the PCS may be the issue. He quoted me 900.00 to remove and replace it. He will give me a 1 year warranty on the fix. If the condition continues he will credit the 900 towards the complete rebuild which is around 3600.00. Its a bit of a chore to dig the PCS out and that's where all the cost is in labour. Also allows for a view of the spacer plate. The PCS itself is about 40.00. He will only use OE parts for these. Been bitten too many times by jobber or off shore pieces.
Will update more later. It goes in tomorrow at 0800.
 

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Update:
Dropped the car this morning. I called around 1500 and he said it would be ready at 1630. He called me at 1600 and said the side cover gasket took a crap and he will have to remove and replace it. It will be ready before noon tomorrow.
Oh well.
 

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Good luck with your transmission repair Pauly. :)
 

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Update
Got the car back on Wednesday at 1000. Went in and it was actually less than the quote of 900 plus tax (883.00 all in )
(still a lot )
Trans shop owner ( Doug ) said that there was some clutch material in the pan and valve body however not that much. About what he would expect to find.
Took VB apart and changed the EPC solenoid. Spacer plate looked good and all other valves and springs were removed and inspected and re-installed. New Mobil Dex/wix filter put in and road tested with live scan and all shift points and times are within spec.
So far all has been good.
SIDE NOTE
Came home and my OCD took over and decided to check the LF wheel torque. ( this was the only wheel removed ). I found that although the wheel was not "loose" the lugs were not torqued to 100. As a guess I would say 50 to 60 max as I put 1/2 turn on all of them to bring them to 100. I called Doug just as a courtesy to let him know that he may want the techs to check the torque settings on their impact guns. I let him know what I found.
He was pissed off that this had happened and INSISTED i bring the car in so that the cradle bolts and other things could be checked. I said it was not big deal but just wanted him to be aware of it.
He insisted.
I went back in and they went over everything they had touched underneath. All was good. He then gave me a gift cert good for $200.00 for a trans service etc at the shop. I told him that was not my intention for the call and tried to give it back to him. He insisted I take it.
Ive gone to this shop in the past and always had good service. I have sent at least 3 other people there and all have been happy.

He stated that the owners manual instruction for 160,000 Km ( 100,000 mi) service interval for these trans is a recipe for failure.
He said that every 60,000 Km (40,000) miles is far more inline with long trans life.
( I believe that this is echoed on here someplace too. Either by Dwayne or King or ??????,,,,,,,, cant recall )

Saga over,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, for now at least.
 

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The solenoid valves all collect iron filings that should be collected by the pan magnet. But GM put a weak magnet in the pan. The Iron filings (probably from the drive chain) alter the magnetic field of the solenoids.
Have the shop install the extra magnets from the GM TSB GM TSB 08-07-30-040C. It should keep the PCS and other solenoids from getting out of whack for quite a while.

Here's the TSB
http://www.impalaforums.com/chevy-impala-8th-gen-discussion/484562-2010-impala-lt-weird-transmission-shifts.html#post1212329
 

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Retiredpualy I tried telling you in my reply to this post that all that was the issue, the EPC or electronic pressure control solenoid has control over the line pressure from the pump. Over time metal particles saturate the solenoid hatzie replied and the solenoid will LOWER the line pressure giving you harsher shifts and a slipping off the line.

More frequent transmission fluid changes would have slowed down the solenoid becoming saturated with metal shavings but the frequent fluid changes would not fix the problem, it would only be a band-aid. Adding a second magnet in the transmission pan would fix the problem though and that's why it's a TSB, then you wouldn't have to resort to frequent fluid changes and all would be good. This is why I've always argued that 30,000 miles transmission fluid changes are a waste of money.
 

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Close.. The EPC or PCS will clog causing a false reading leading to a failsafe max line pressure behavior which will cause the harsh shifts..
 

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But yes a regular trans service will prevent the nonsense..
 

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Retiredpualy I tried telling you in my reply to this post that all that was the issue, the EPC or electronic pressure control solenoid has control over the line pressure from the pump. Over time metal particles saturate the solenoid hatzie replied and the solenoid will LOWER the line pressure giving you harsher shifts and a slipping off the line.

More frequent transmission fluid changes would have slowed down the solenoid becoming saturated with metal shavings but the frequent fluid changes would not fix the problem, it would only be a band-aid. Adding a second magnet in the transmission pan would fix the problem though and that's why it's a TSB, then you wouldn't have to resort to frequent fluid changes and all would be good. This is why I've always argued that 30,000 miles transmission fluid changes are a waste of money.
Indeed you did ( say it was the EPC) and I discounted it thinking that the input piston was pooched. ( fearing the worst of course, its what I do... )

The next oil change I do I will put in a couple of magnets that I have retrieved from some old style computer hard drives. ( i have a half dozen of them the older ones were stronger than the newer ones )

The trans guy said when it sticks and goes to full pressure and causes the banging. ( as per zerialz )
Either way,,,,,, I will add another 1 or even 2 of those hard drive magnets.

An earlier oil change should cycle some of the remaining older oil to newer. ( diluted it for lack of a better term)

It's too bad they don't put a torque converter drain on these. No one has done that since Ford used to do it with the old C6s.
A spin on filter and pan drain plug would be a good idea too. Like Saturn had. ( honda copy I believe )
I talked to the trans guy about an aftermarket Dorman trans pan with the drain plug in it and he has seen a few of them come in and all have been leaking. Same as the add in drain plug. I think someone on here had the same issue with one of the Dorman trans pans.

As I have a free service coming to me I will just take the magnets to them and get them to put them in.

Wife has been driving it for a week now and sfsg.
 

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Yeah my dorman leaked like crazy.. Right out of the box.. I was pissed.. It costed me 50 in fluid..
 

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Funny you should mention this. I have the same car with the same problem. What worked for me was to let the engine warm up like a carburated engine to let it idle down and then drive. Once I started doing that, I never had that problem again. It's annoying to have to wait but its better than having to buy a new tranny. Hope this helps in your case.
 
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