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Discussion Starter #1
About 700-800 miles ago I got 2" drop spindles installed (professionally) on my '94 Caprice wagon. The second I drove away the steering felt different and "lighter." I thought it was just because everything was freshly lubed and/or greased so I didn't think much of it. I kept an eye on the treadwear anyway. I guess I wasn't watching closely enough because the inner tread wore completely through on both front tires and I had a blowout. I never visually noticed any camber issues but I do notice that each front wheel is ever so slightly cocked outward. Can this be corrected or do I have to put the stock spindles back on? The rear is at stock height and I'm not gonna lower it. The rake looks really cool on a wagon! Anyway, it sucks because my 20" Toyo Proxes4 tires are brand new! I didn't even get 1000 miles on 'em! My wife is really pissed! Now I have to spend more money on my car. Anyone else experience this? I thought drop spindles weren't supposed to change anything other than ride height. I suck at math/physics!!!! If I have to bring it back to stock, I may sell it. It just isn't the same. Sorry for the length of this. Thank you!
 

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Umm you need an alignment even with drop spindles. May be hard to achieve good alignment too. That's why most people who want to drop, just get springs. You need to take the care to a good alignment shop who will really align the car and not give you a toe and go.
 

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It should be easy enough to get a proper alignment with drop spindles... that's the whole point. it does need to be done though. Also your caster angle will be off unless you lower the rear the same amount. that may be why the car was easier to steer if the rear is at stock height. you're trading off steering effort for tracking, more caster = more steering effort but better tracking. if your car is raked you probably won't be able to get the caster in spec but that's not a tire wearing spec, toe and camber have to be set to spec though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah, thanks! The place I might go to has "computerized alignment." I just can't afford to be buying new 20" tires every 750 miles!
 

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honestly the best alignment shop I ever found was this old school place in MI where they just had old guys doing alignment with big old trammels, bubble levels, etc. Tons of street rods and race cars in the parking lot. your "alignment report" was hand written on a little piece of paper and given in fractions of an inch. My car never drove better than when I left there...

my point is, don't put too much stock in "computerized alignment" it's a tool, nothing more nor less. In fact if the rack is out of calibration they can probably do a whole mess of bad alignments before they notice; with trammels they know for sure whether the toe is right or not.
 

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ive heard u cant do alignments on the wagns because of the rear fender skirt ( at least thats what another thread on this forum said ) tell us if u find out different
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I saw that post too. He said they can't do it because he lowered the car 4inches - front AND rear. That's quite a bit. From his photo it didn't appear to be that low. Anyway, that's what he said. Because it was too low to attatch the equipment needed to do an alignment.
 

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oic i didnt hear/ read that part now i understand i was wondering , that was a wierd post thanx , hope u get the problem fixed i wouldnt mind getting a wagon some day ( for alot of car audio lol like 4 15's or more ):biggrin::eek:
 

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Umm our rears are solid. There really is NO aligning to be done in the rear. If your shop can't affix the units to the rear wheels even with skirts go somewhere else. You need to go to a place that WILL gaurantee the alignment. Get on ISSF and ask for specs. Get those specs and MAKE the shop do them. MOST shops will Toe and GO, and you don't want that.
 

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yeah i heard about the aftermarket specs i dont know where to find them but if u have a link im sure he would appreciate that:biggrin:
 
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