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hey guys, its me again. Well I'll get stright to the point, I have a 96 impala ss with 100,000 miles on it. the engine is strong, nothing major ever happen to it(since I brought it back in 2008). Now I've been doing a little research, but its better for me just to come on here and ask for yall help. Well including labor my budget is about 4000, which I told is fairly good. I'm looking at buy an top end kit and stroking it to either a 383 or 395/6, but I'm not sure if the bottom end of the stock Lt1 will be able to hold up. Now I also thought about my a crate engine, but you see I'm looking for around 400+ hp and all I was able to see was a couple starting at 5000. (damn I got to be able to gas the thing to..lol). What do you guys think will be best for me. Or should I just another gm crate engine that produce about 330 hp and bolt on from there.
 

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What is done to the car sofar?

If it is stock $4K will NOT do heads and cam with labor as the car will need more than that in parts alone.

A stroker is completely out of the question.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I done nothing to the car, because I havent figure wut I wanted to do to the car.....but, I was web browsing and came across storkerkits.com and they have alot top end kits that i might look into. But the lt4 conversion I found cost about 2300. But how much would it cost on the avg to have an new engine put in or that engine work I want
 

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If the fuel system, sensors and PCM will work with the LT4 series you could change the engine out yourself with a few buddies whom are mechanically inclined helping you. Might even get it done between Friday night and Sunday evening. With the engine only costing $2,300.00 that would leave you $1700 for any other parts you might need and/or helping pay your buddies to help you with the swap.

EDIT: OK, so I have now learned that the LT4 is not a good choice.:rolleyes:
 

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The LT4 TOPEND kit is $2300 and is a pretty ignorant and poor choice. For about the same money you can make 15%+ more power.

ALL the incoming and outgoing air comes through the heads and they are controlled by the cam. Meaning focusing on adding displacement and leaving no budget for a good topend is a solid recipe for a TURD.

My car is faster than a lot of stroker cars because I spent my money on the topend.

Don't get me wrong, I would LOVE a nice stroker, BUT if/when I do a stroker it will probably cost $8K for the engine not to mention all the stuff that has already been done to the car.

I figure $2000 or so for a GOOD balanced rotating assembly.
$1500 machining or maybe once the Dart block comes out $2200 or so for the new block and machining
$3000+ in heads/cam/valvetrain/intake porting
leaving $1500 for things like oil pump, new injectors, new oilpan, gaskets, new opti etc.

I am going to make another post in just a moment, will cut and paste a "before heads and cam" guide I wrote on another forum.
 

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Had a few requests for information this week. Figure it will be of more help to the community if I do a post on it rather than just reply to emails.

I will try and start at the front of the car and work backwards, if there are things I have done that I would recommend doing a little differently I will note that.

RAISS cold air intake with a dual cone filter setup in it maybe slightly overkill with the dual cones.
f-body MAF with screen
58mm BBK TB needs a few tweaks covered here. http://members.cox.net/chipsbyal/page/idle/index.html
My BBK was sealed in that area, just needed drilling not plugging.
36lbs injectors, stock regulator, depending on how aggressive a setup you run you might get away with a 30lbs SVOs and many folks jump all the way to 42lbs which is enough to handle even a wild stroker.
160 hypertech stat
I am using a stock opti Autolite 104s or NGK TR6s, put an Accel 300+ on the car I bought cheap and saw no change in performance, left it on for the rev limiter.
Racetronix fuel pump and wiring kit. Really a good value, is a Walbro pump and NICE relay harness plus the filter sock.
www.advancedinduction.com heads and cam package 190cc with the 226/234 cam
I also bought the Comp ProMagnum 1.6 rockers, new pushrods, ARP Pro rocker studs from them.
The intake is their street ported one, if looking to save a buck this is an item you could consider skipping, I am happy I bought it but at the same time it is less critical than other parts.

I have tried a handful of different headers, all the times you see in my sig or on the ET page were with CIA Budget headers, they are well built but do NOT buy them they were designed for the iron heads and plug clearance is major issue on one cylinder requiring modification of the header the plug using a thin boot wire AND I still had to remove one to change the plugs. Over the winter I put on focuztech.com stainless Quads, no data on any performance changes but they certainly clear better.
Pypes 2.5" x-pipe to Dynomax Ultraflos and resonators. IMO the 2.5" is fine for most NA setups, but if starting over on exhaust consider 3".
Torque converter is a 3400 www.edgeracingconverters.com 9.5", drives great.
Tranny is a 5.5 year old ProBuilt Automatics pro-built.net, had it built when I was aiming for a LOT less power but has held up wonderfully.
3.5" aluminum driveshaft, bought used not sure of brand.
Tried a few different gear sets, the ET page times are with 3.73s and 27x11.50 Hoosier QTPs on 8" steel wheels and later 10" forged drag rims.
Always have street tires on the front of the car.

Suspension is Impala springs all round, stock swaybars both ends, Monroe severe service front shocks and Bilstein 0929s in back. These are handling shocks not drag.
I have BMR rear LCAs but honestly if buying today I would go with http://www.umiperformance.com/, I bought but have not installed adjustable UMI uppers.
Airlift bags in the rear springs plumbed seperate so I can put more air in the passenger side to level the launch.

I think that covers the major stuff, if you feel I left something out ask, been modding the car so long sometimes I forget about earlier mods.

Things like the electric WP I feel are overdone, leave them for the cars looking for that last .1 at the track.
Adjustable fuel pressure regulators are often less reliable than stock and rarely serve a benifical purpose so skip them.

Not really applicable to performance but I also put a higher pressure spring in the oilpump and a metal oil pump driveshaft.

Here is a higher pressure spring for the stock pump.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=NAL-3848911&FROM=MG
Here is a metal driveshaft for the oilpump.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MEL-IS-55E&FROM=MG

Working with pcmperformance.com to retune the car as I found some substantial issues with the old tuning, sofar the car certainly drives better and mileage is up a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
LT4 = FAIL for our big HEAVY cars.

It was made for a Y-Body that weighs 1000# less.



For the stock engine, 100K is nothing. It should have A LOT of life left.

You did not mention any mods done to the car.

Is it stock?

If so, you'd be better served by installing all the bolt on goodies first:

Torque Converter, Gears, Headers, Cat Back, Tuning, etc...

You might get most of that done for your 4K.

Also, if you WERE to put a 383 in an otherwise stock car,
you would be disappointed in the performance...

You really need the set the car up for the engine, and
NOT do it backwards.

For a built engine, 4K is not enough IMHO.

Just my .02
o the car is 100% stock
well, thats what I'm going to do as soon as I get back from Iraq, is the get a new tq converter, 3:73 gears. stuff like that, and after all that I should end up with about 4k. but I was getting that If i put a top end kit to it, I would get better performance, so what you are telling me is to go ahead and just get new headers, maybe a cam, stuff like that
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The LT4 TOPEND kit is $2300 and is a pretty ignorant and poor choice. For about the same money you can make 15%+ more power.

ALL the incoming and outgoing air comes through the heads and they are controlled by the cam. Meaning focusing on adding displacement and leaving no budget for a good topend is a solid recipe for a TURD.

My car is faster than a lot of stroker cars because I spent my money on the topend.

Don't get me wrong, I would LOVE a nice stroker, BUT if/when I do a stroker it will probably cost $8K for the engine not to mention all the stuff that has already been done to the car.

I figure $2000 or so for a GOOD balanced rotating assembly.
$1500 machining or maybe once the Dart block comes out $2200 or so for the new block and machining
$3000+ in heads/cam/valvetrain/intake porting
leaving $1500 for things like oil pump, new injectors, new oilpan, gaskets, new opti etc.

I am going to make another post in just a moment, will cut and paste a "before heads and cam" guide I wrote on another forum.
okay so I should do what? I'm very (novice) when it comes to engine work, so what u are telling me is to NOT get the storker kit and just work on the lt1 I got. Well if thats the case can you email me what I should do

[email protected]

thanks alot
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What is done to the car sofar?

If it is stock $4K will NOT do heads and cam with labor as the car will need more than that in parts alone.

A stroker is completely out of the question.
the car is bone stock, and the only thing I did really was put a full exhaust system in it, thats really all the time I had before I was ship out( DAMN UNCLE SAM)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If the fuel system, sensors and PCM will work with the LT4 series you could change the engine out yourself with a few buddies whom are mechanically inclined helping you. Might even get it done between Friday night and Sunday evening. With the engine only costing $2,300.00 that would leave you $1700 for any other parts you might need and/or helping pay your buddies to help you with the swap.

EDIT: OK, so I have now learned that the LT4 is not a good choice.:rolleyes:
thanks but man the only thing my friends can do with cars is..........steal them...lol so I'm having all the work done in a shop
 

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Discussion Starter #12
lost

Had a few requests for information this week. Figure it will be of more help to the community if I do a post on it rather than just reply to emails.

I will try and start at the front of the car and work backwards, if there are things I have done that I would recommend doing a little differently I will note that.

RAISS cold air intake with a dual cone filter setup in it maybe slightly overkill with the dual cones.
f-body MAF with screen
58mm BBK TB needs a few tweaks covered here. http://members.cox.net/chipsbyal/page/idle/index.html
My BBK was sealed in that area, just needed drilling not plugging.
36lbs injectors, stock regulator, depending on how aggressive a setup you run you might get away with a 30lbs SVOs and many folks jump all the way to 42lbs which is enough to handle even a wild stroker.
160 hypertech stat
I am using a stock opti Autolite 104s or NGK TR6s, put an Accel 300+ on the car I bought cheap and saw no change in performance, left it on for the rev limiter.
Racetronix fuel pump and wiring kit. Really a good value, is a Walbro pump and NICE relay harness plus the filter sock.
www.advancedinduction.com heads and cam package 190cc with the 226/234 cam
I also bought the Comp ProMagnum 1.6 rockers, new pushrods, ARP Pro rocker studs from them.
The intake is their street ported one, if looking to save a buck this is an item you could consider skipping, I am happy I bought it but at the same time it is less critical than other parts.

I have tried a handful of different headers, all the times you see in my sig or on the ET page were with CIA Budget headers, they are well built but do NOT buy them they were designed for the iron heads and plug clearance is major issue on one cylinder requiring modification of the header the plug using a thin boot wire AND I still had to remove one to change the plugs. Over the winter I put on focuztech.com stainless Quads, no data on any performance changes but they certainly clear better.
Pypes 2.5" x-pipe to Dynomax Ultraflos and resonators. IMO the 2.5" is fine for most NA setups, but if starting over on exhaust consider 3".
Torque converter is a 3400 www.edgeracingconverters.com 9.5", drives great.
Tranny is a 5.5 year old ProBuilt Automatics pro-built.net, had it built when I was aiming for a LOT less power but has held up wonderfully.
3.5" aluminum driveshaft, bought used not sure of brand.
Tried a few different gear sets, the ET page times are with 3.73s and 27x11.50 Hoosier QTPs on 8" steel wheels and later 10" forged drag rims.
Always have street tires on the front of the car.

Suspension is Impala springs all round, stock swaybars both ends, Monroe severe service front shocks and Bilstein 0929s in back. These are handling shocks not drag.
I have BMR rear LCAs but honestly if buying today I would go with http://www.umiperformance.com/, I bought but have not installed adjustable UMI uppers.
Airlift bags in the rear springs plumbed seperate so I can put more air in the passenger side to level the launch.

I think that covers the major stuff, if you feel I left something out ask, been modding the car so long sometimes I forget about earlier mods.

Things like the electric WP I feel are overdone, leave them for the cars looking for that last .1 at the track.
Adjustable fuel pressure regulators are often less reliable than stock and rarely serve a benifical purpose so skip them.

Not really applicable to performance but I also put a higher pressure spring in the oilpump and a metal oil pump driveshaft.

Here is a higher pressure spring for the stock pump.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=NAL-3848911&FROM=MG
Here is a metal driveshaft for the oilpump.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MEL-IS-55E&FROM=MG

Working with pcmperformance.com to retune the car as I found some substantial issues with the old tuning, sofar the car certainly drives better and mileage is up a bit.
ok thanks I'm going to look into all that stuff you type, because I only thing I can do it put gas in it....and YES I know thats sad
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Had a few requests for information this week. Figure it will be of more help to the community if I do a post on it rather than just reply to emails.

I will try and start at the front of the car and work backwards, if there are things I have done that I would recommend doing a little differently I will note that.

RAISS cold air intake with a dual cone filter setup in it maybe slightly overkill with the dual cones.
f-body MAF with screen
58mm BBK TB needs a few tweaks covered here. http://members.cox.net/chipsbyal/page/idle/index.html
My BBK was sealed in that area, just needed drilling not plugging.
36lbs injectors, stock regulator, depending on how aggressive a setup you run you might get away with a 30lbs SVOs and many folks jump all the way to 42lbs which is enough to handle even a wild stroker.
160 hypertech stat
I am using a stock opti Autolite 104s or NGK TR6s, put an Accel 300+ on the car I bought cheap and saw no change in performance, left it on for the rev limiter.
Racetronix fuel pump and wiring kit. Really a good value, is a Walbro pump and NICE relay harness plus the filter sock.
www.advancedinduction.com heads and cam package 190cc with the 226/234 cam
I also bought the Comp ProMagnum 1.6 rockers, new pushrods, ARP Pro rocker studs from them.
The intake is their street ported one, if looking to save a buck this is an item you could consider skipping, I am happy I bought it but at the same time it is less critical than other parts.

I have tried a handful of different headers, all the times you see in my sig or on the ET page were with CIA Budget headers, they are well built but do NOT buy them they were designed for the iron heads and plug clearance is major issue on one cylinder requiring modification of the header the plug using a thin boot wire AND I still had to remove one to change the plugs. Over the winter I put on focuztech.com stainless Quads, no data on any performance changes but they certainly clear better.
Pypes 2.5" x-pipe to Dynomax Ultraflos and resonators. IMO the 2.5" is fine for most NA setups, but if starting over on exhaust consider 3".
Torque converter is a 3400 www.edgeracingconverters.com 9.5", drives great.
Tranny is a 5.5 year old ProBuilt Automatics pro-built.net, had it built when I was aiming for a LOT less power but has held up wonderfully.
3.5" aluminum driveshaft, bought used not sure of brand.
Tried a few different gear sets, the ET page times are with 3.73s and 27x11.50 Hoosier QTPs on 8" steel wheels and later 10" forged drag rims.
Always have street tires on the front of the car.

Suspension is Impala springs all round, stock swaybars both ends, Monroe severe service front shocks and Bilstein 0929s in back. These are handling shocks not drag.
I have BMR rear LCAs but honestly if buying today I would go with http://www.umiperformance.com/, I bought but have not installed adjustable UMI uppers.
Airlift bags in the rear springs plumbed seperate so I can put more air in the passenger side to level the launch.

I think that covers the major stuff, if you feel I left something out ask, been modding the car so long sometimes I forget about earlier mods.

Things like the electric WP I feel are overdone, leave them for the cars looking for that last .1 at the track.
Adjustable fuel pressure regulators are often less reliable than stock and rarely serve a benifical purpose so skip them.

Not really applicable to performance but I also put a higher pressure spring in the oilpump and a metal oil pump driveshaft.

Here is a higher pressure spring for the stock pump.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=NAL-3848911&FROM=MG
Here is a metal driveshaft for the oilpump.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MEL-IS-55E&FROM=MG

Working with pcmperformance.com to retune the car as I found some substantial issues with the old tuning, sofar the car certainly drives better and mileage is up a bit.
Thanks alot man, you are really helping me out. Question? what website did u buy your fuel pump from Ractronix? and did you buy the XL harness or just the regular harness. As for you injectorts, did you buy them from there too? thanks
 

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Seems they changed the packages a bit. I got the pump, the relay hotwire kit and the body ground.

The bulkhead connector was fine on my cars but is a known failure point.

I am running Trickflow injectors.

There are a lot of injector choices out there, I don't know of any magical best one, arguments to be made for each type, and each size.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Seems they changed the packages a bit. I got the pump, the relay hotwire kit and the body ground.

The bulkhead connector was fine on my cars but is a known failure point.

I am running Trickflow injectors.

There are a lot of injector choices out there, I don't know of any magical best one, arguments to be made for each type, and each size.
well, I copy the message the guy sent me( above this post) and I have been doing research and working from there,,, I havent look into the injector thing yet.. this is the first time I got on a computer since last time
 

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hey guys, its me again. Well I'll get stright to the point, I have a 96 impala ss with 100,000 miles on it. the engine is strong, nothing major ever happen to it(since I brought it back in 2008). Now I've been doing a little research, but its better for me just to come on here and ask for yall help. Well including labor my budget is about 4000, which I told is fairly good. I'm looking at buy an top end kit and stroking it to either a 383 or 395/6, but I'm not sure if the bottom end of the stock Lt1 will be able to hold up. Now I also thought about my a crate engine, but you see I'm looking for around 400+ hp and all I was able to see was a couple starting at 5000. (damn I got to be able to gas the thing to..lol). What do you guys think will be best for me. Or should I just another gm crate engine that produce about 330 hp and bolt on from there.
I think that if you do alot of surfing you could find what your looking for, this is one example that I found in about 10 minutes:
Go to racingjunk.com and search for ad# 1604469, you can also use keyword LT1 stroker or any other keywords that you can think of.
This is a listing for a complete .030 over 383 LT1 for about $1900 asking price, you probably can get it cheaper than that.
You should also check out Ebay under "Chevy LT1 stroker" in Ebay motors, also Google "383 stroker engines", those are just a couple of quick things that I found.

.........Dale
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I think that if you do alot of surfing you could find what your looking for, this is one example that I found in about 10 minutes:
Go to racingjunk.com and search for ad# 1604469, you can also use keyword LT1 stroker or any other keywords that you can think of.
This is a listing for a complete .030 over 383 LT1 for about $1900 asking price, you probably can get it cheaper than that.
You should also check out Ebay under "Chevy LT1 stroker" in Ebay motors, also Google "383 stroker engines", those are just a couple of quick things that I found.

.........Dale
like I check out ebay, but I'm kinda shaky on buying something on there. And I also thought of driving to a spot that sells the engine but, the shops are too far from Maryland
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am going to make another post in just a moment, will cut and paste a "before heads and cam" guide I wrote on another forum.[/QUOTE]

did you ever make that forum?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Had a few requests for information this week. Figure it will be of more help to the community if I do a post on it rather than just reply to emails.
.

36lbs injectors, stock regulator, depending on how aggressive a setup you run you might get away with a 30lbs SVOs and many folks jump all the way to 42lbs which is enough to handle even a wild stroker.

www.advancedinduction.com heads and cam package 190cc with the 226/234 cam


Working with pcmperformance.com to retune the car as I found some substantial issues with the old tuning, sofar the car certainly drives better and mileage is up a bit.
Will I be "overkilling" it if I go with the 42lbs injectors for the head and cam package
 

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I think that if you do alot of surfing you could find what your looking for, this is one example that I found in about 10 minutes:
Go to racingjunk.com and search for ad# 1604469, you can also use keyword LT1 stroker or any other keywords that you can think of.
This is a listing for a complete .030 over 383 LT1 for about $1900 asking price, you probably can get it cheaper than that.
You should also check out Ebay under "Chevy LT1 stroker" in Ebay motors, also Google "383 stroker engines", those are just a couple of quick things that I found.

.........Dale
You approach of BLINDLY adding displacement without an understanding of what makes power is very common and the reason most results are so mediocre.

A CHEAP stroker is a step backwards from a stock shortblock, hell so are some expensive strokers.
I haven't seen a motor on ebay I would buy and a Google search will turn up Golen garbage that besides not making power will be unreliable.

I know my opinions vary from the norm, but then again so do my results, that is not coincidence.

42lbs injectors are OK on a heads/cam motor.
 
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