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I get about 30 in my 2003 when it's working properly. Seems to be drinking it pretty heavily with a hole in the exhaust this past week. Power locks are mildly handy with it(I wouldn't want such an option in a Jeep unless it's a Grand Cherokee or maybe Liberty), but I took a shotgun to the remote. Stupid thing kept making the car go nuts every time I put it in my pocket, not that I did so often. If I need to lock or unlock my car, I'm perfectly capable of walking right up to it and doing so on site. Power windows are kinda nice to be able to roll them all down without leaning all over like a drunk, but this is more a gentleman's cruiser, not a small vehicle for a working man, like my nearly all-analog Patriot.
 

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Discussion Starter #43 (Edited)
If any of you have any opinions with a 2012ish TDI VW Jetta's compared to the reliability and cost of ownership of these impala which would you pick? My dad is trying to convince me to get one because of his fuel economy of his 2003 Jetta TDI manual but I think those are completely different cars then a modern one .
 

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I considered VW Passat TDIs along with Impalas and Toyota Avalons at the time I was looking for a used car upgrade last year (obviously ended up with Impala since I am here). Had to be a big sedan or sport utility as I have a tall family.The engine and other quality factors are basically the same for the Jetta. Jetta is a little smaller than an Impala. If you find one new enough to be a part of the whole dieselgate EPA cheating thing, then you might score a good deal on price. If you find a certified used VW, then they cover bumper to bumper for two years in their certified warranty. So not a bad choice if you like diesel and the size and price of a Jetta work for you.
On average, I still think used Impala's are going to give the most bang for the buck, but if a great deal had come along, I personally would have been fine with a VW sedan.
 

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Impala is indeed a great bang for the buck, though I admittedly have a very soft spot for my 2010 Patriot as well. Haven't been driving it as much recently, but it can easily take much rougher terrain, hold almost as much(the car having more room honestly was a surprise for me), and still return 27mpg highway(less if you get the Trail Rated FD2 model with the L on the shifter). I'd say roughly equal bang for the buck on a Patriot, though I'm not as fond of the 2014+ due to a conventional automatic all but completely replacing the CVT....conventional is like an afterthought at that point, and CVT is amazing tech as long as it's kept maintained.



Not sure about the Volkswagens so much, aside from the Type 1 and Type 2 being pretty cool, Beetle name was just discontinued, and they just annihilated their core fan base with that Dieselgate crap.
 

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I am currently looking at a black 2012 Impala LTZ with 113k KMs on it and being listed for $9000 CAD right now.
So roughly 70 thousand miles for around $6700 us. If it has been taken care of and is in good shape, that is probably a good deal. Good luck.
 

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i will warn you about water issues/peeling clear coat issues on aftermarket impala headlights. spyderauto is a reputable brand with great customer service that i personally used and had great results. several other guys could vouch for them as well. the cheaper lights i tried just didn't hold up well or fogged badly.

Spyder Auto pick your light you want then search for the part numbers on ebay or amazon. they are pricey but you get what you pay for. installation of the halo's is actually pretty straight forward and easy. i even used spade terminals on my connectors to make the headlights pretty easy to pull after installation. just shrink wrap the connections to keep water out.
 

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i will warn you about water issues/peeling clear coat issues on aftermarket impala headlights. spyderauto is a reputable brand with great customer service that i personally used and had great results. several other guys could vouch for them as well. the cheaper lights i tried just didn't hold up well or fogged badly.

Spyder Auto pick your light you want then search for the part numbers on ebay or amazon. they are pricey but you get what you pay for. installation of the halo's is actually pretty straight forward and easy. i even used spade terminals on my connectors to make the headlights pretty easy to pull after installation. just shrink wrap the connections to keep water out.
Absolutely, positively, 100% agree with @Joes74challenger! I tried 2 different sets of aftermarket headlights and almost gave up (due to fitment and condendation/water-leak issues) until I tried a set of Spyder headlights. You'll pay a little more for the Spyder headlights, but they are much better than any of the no-name "cheap" aftermarket headlights. But even Spyder is not up to OEM quality. Some people still report clear-coat issues with Spyder headlights. Personally, I've a a set of Spyder CCFL Halo headlights on my 2012 for years now and haven't had ANY issues whatsoever. No clearcoat issues - no condensation issues - not even a burnt-out bulb. :)

Here are some pictures of them:









 

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I am curious as to why putting HID or LED bulbs into the Spyder housings will void the warranty...
 

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I am curious as to why putting HID or LED bulbs into the Spyder housings will void the warranty...
when i had to warranty mine for peeling that was one of the first questions. i said no i had not put HID's in the housing and the guy was genuinely surprised. i'm going to guess that due to the wild variances we've seen on these forums just in bulb designs they're probably concerned of a rogue manufacturer not specing everything out as they should be and then causing damage to their unit.

realistically to get them warrantied i had to go through amazon's 1 year anything auto warranty. which worked out pretty well, i got a full refund and the agent found them cheaper than i originally paid with another square whatever its called warranty.

spyder said they don't have a way to receive the warranty returns which is why they don't deal with it. i was amazed by this concept....how do you receive inventory then? LOL

either way i still loved the lights and had no problems using their company in the future again.
 

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I wonder if they are worried about HID/LED bulbs causing heat-related issues with the plastic housing? Is it possible that some of those bulbs get hotter than incandescent bulbs and/or may sit closer to the headlights plastic housing when installed (due to being longer), which may cause heat-related issues with the plastic (plastic deforming or melting) - or maybe the extra heat would impact the clearcoat somehow?

I've never used HID or LED headlights, so I'm not sure if they get hotter or not though?

This is just a wild guess... :)
 

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^And a good guess at that. I was kinda thinking the same thing as both you and @Joes74challenger, but I did not know for sure. I am by no means a headlight expert, but my research and actual trials and tribulations have taught me a couple of things so far... LEDs are growing wildly in popularity... HIDs are falling in popularity. My guess here is cost and with modern LEDs getting to be more plug and play and comparable to halogen bulbs in size, I can see LEDs being exclusive before too long. We all know LEDs draw less power out out less heat.

I am on my second round of LED bulbs for the low beams and I feel pretty good about these particular ones I just ordered. I am looking to upgrade my headlamps more so for looks but that isn't high on the priority list at the moment.
 

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I love the "full sized" nature/stance/size of my Impala. For "todays cars" it is downright huge. Alas, in the 60's and 70's it wouldn't even be noticed for size. As far as the electronic/automated nature of everything on the car. Love the heated/cooled seats, the heated steering wheel (gets downright hot in winter). The auto cruise is ok, however, the emergency auto braking is NOT ok. Twice it has literally slammed on the brakes at incorrect times. Thankfully I was not rear ended.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
One other question i have is with the TPMS sensors in the tires how long do they last? Any reliability issues?
 

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One other question i have is with the TPMS sensors in the tires how long do they last? Any reliability issues?
the tpms sensors in the wheels are a sealed unit. when they die you have to replace the whole unit in the tire. i think i remember bell tire wanted 65 per tire or 130 per tire from the dealer. in 8 years that i owned it i had one fail. the other three were still going strong. the guy at belle tire even offered the deal of buy three and he'd throw in the 4th for free so definitely do your shopping before having the work done.

however the dealer claims about 6 years life expectancy so i could have been doing better than average. when they go out it is simply a light on the dash and you can't see the pressures for that one tire, not a big deal. get it fixed when you can is all (just keep an eye by manually checking the pressures yourself.

i found the tpms isn't exact compared to the gauges i own, but it's within a pound or two.
 

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i think i remember bell tire wanted 65 per tire...
I got ~60 at Discount Tire, so 65 is in the ballpark.


i found the tpms isn't exact compared to the gauges i own, but it's within a pound or two.
Me, too. The frustration is that the alarm thresholds in the BCM (PCM?) are not adaptive. So if I want to run right at the lower limit (say, 32psi, for softer ride) and the reading is off by 2psi, showing 30 to the computer, then the warning light comes on, even tho the tire is actually at a good, safe pressure :(

</rant>

I've sometimes wondered why these TPMS systems can be so difficult at times, then it occurred to me that the name may be part of the problem :)

Doug

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