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I was in need of a car as I only had a 1993 Explorer which was in rough shape and with me having bad credit, I had to settle for a place that would do on lot financing. I found a 2004 Impala 3.4 V6 for $8995 with 98,800 miles that I really liked and I've always wanted an Impala. It wasn't in the "best" shape as it was in a small accident so it had a small crack in the bumper. The driver smoked and there was few burn marks but nothing I couldn't live with.

I traded my Explorer in (they gave $1500 for it) and agreed to put $2000 down.

I got the car on Thursday and today is now Monday. I drove the car to work (30 miles one day) and felt the transmission shift hard a couple times but didn't think much of it. One day I was driving on the beach road and the transmission wouldn't shift gears. I was going between 25-35 and it wouldn't shift as I hit the gas, I just kept hearing the motor rive up. After a couple seconds the transmission changed gears and I was on my way. That was the only time it's slipped that bad. I decided to check the transmission fluid and found out that it was black (dark brown) and smelt burt. I knew what this mean't.

I took it to my mechanic and had him take a good look at it and he found the following wrong with it:

Transmission Bad ($1600 Min Rebuild)
Steering Axel Bad ($300 Replace/Lube)
Slight Engine Knock (said it's normal for this many miles, recommends using 10W40 oil now)
Tie Rods have slight play (said to wait it out for now)
Tires Worn (suggested replacement within 3 months)
Front Driver Seatbelt Broken (not bolted to floor, just hanging lose)
Hood Lach (suggests replacing it as it's damaged and hard to shut hood.
Warped Rotors (causing a loud squeak sound and viberation while braking)
Something hanging Down (I seem to scrape the driveway very bad)

The point is, I got this car as I am going through bankrupcy and needed something I could depend on and now I think I just have added another thing to the bankrupcy list. There is no way I can afford to make payments and fix all this stuff and all this stuff would be more than the car is even worth.

The mechanic just said "I hope you got a good deal on this" and all I could do was laugh. He said he recommends people bringing cars in before buying it and said when they do, 9 out of 10 times he suggests not getting the car. The sad part is, the dealership I got my car from is the ONLY dealership near the mechanic... so I'm sure 95% of the cars he's checked before people bought was from that dealership.

At least I learned something either way. I learned that dealerships are rip offs and that I'm an idiot for falling for their traps. I've been screwed over by a lot of dealerships, but in the end I always ended up with a good car.
 

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I was in need of a car as I only had a 1993 Explorer which was in rough shape and with me having bad credit, I had to settle for a place that would do on lot financing. I found a 2004 Impala 3.4 V6 for $8995 with 98,800 miles that I really liked and I've always wanted an Impala. It wasn't in the "best" shape as it was in a small accident so it had a small crack in the bumper. The driver smoked and there was few burn marks but nothing I couldn't live with.

I traded my Explorer in (they gave $1500 for it) and agreed to put $2000 down.

I got the car on Thursday and today is now Monday. I drove the car to work (30 miles one day) and felt the transmission shift hard a couple times but didn't think much of it. One day I was driving on the beach road and the transmission wouldn't shift gears. I was going between 25-35 and it wouldn't shift as I hit the gas, I just kept hearing the motor rive up. After a couple seconds the transmission changed gears and I was on my way. That was the only time it's slipped that bad. I decided to check the transmission fluid and found out that it was black (dark brown) and smelt burt. I knew what this mean't.

I took it to my mechanic and had him take a good look at it and he found the following wrong with it:

Transmission Bad ($1600 Min Rebuild)
Steering Axel Bad ($300 Replace/Lube)
Slight Engine Knock (said it's normal for this many miles, recommends using 10W40 oil now)
Tie Rods have slight play (said to wait it out for now)
Tires Worn (suggested replacement within 3 months)
Front Driver Seatbelt Broken (not bolted to floor, just hanging lose)
Hood Lach (suggests replacing it as it's damaged and hard to shut hood.
Warped Rotors (causing a loud squeak sound and viberation while braking)
Something hanging Down (I seem to scrape the driveway very bad)

The point is, I got this car as I am going through bankrupcy and needed something I could depend on and now I think I just have added another thing to the bankrupcy list. There is no way I can afford to make payments and fix all this stuff and all this stuff would be more than the car is even worth.

The mechanic just said "I hope you got a good deal on this" and all I could do was laugh. He said he recommends people bringing cars in before buying it and said when they do, 9 out of 10 times he suggests not getting the car. The sad part is, the dealership I got my car from is the ONLY dealership near the mechanic... so I'm sure 95% of the cars he's checked before people bought was from that dealership.

At least I learned something either way. I learned that dealerships are rip offs and that I'm an idiot for falling for their traps. I've been screwed over by a lot of dealerships, but in the end I always ended up with a good car.

Not all dealerships are rip offs but I think you could have avoided this scenerio entirely had you shopped around.

Perhaps where you live it was a good deal but where I live(in MI) for 10k you could have had a newer imp with half as many miles typically.

I would just chalk up the lesson learnt by not taking it to a mechanic first or checking things out yourself first.

Good luck in the future, as always hindsight is 20/20 and the important thing is just knowing you learnt a lesson and move forward without dwelling but not forgetting.
 

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Transmission Bad ($1600 Min Rebuild)
Steering Axel Bad ($300 Replace/Lube)
Slight Engine Knock (said it's normal for this many miles, recommends using 10W40 oil now)
Tie Rods have slight play (said to wait it out for now)
Tires Worn (suggested replacement within 3 months)
Front Driver Seatbelt Broken (not bolted to floor, just hanging lose)
Hood Lach (suggests replacing it as it's damaged and hard to shut hood.
Warped Rotors (causing a loud squeak sound and viberation while braking)
Something hanging Down (I seem to scrape the driveway very bad)
.
Lets see...
-Knock...not normal, if its a tick thats different, but a knock is never a good sign
-Trans, www.tripleedgeperformance.com if they're close to you, $1300 performance rebuilds, you wont break it again w/ a 3.4 LOL, or check www.carparts.com you should be able to find a good lo mile trans from a wrecked 3.4 for around $500ish, install SHOULD cost between 300-600
-seatbelt, unless you have bench (not familiar w/ them) they just bolt to the seat itself, you should be able to find a 15mm bolt @ lowes/homedepot that will work
-hood latch www.carparts.com cheap easy to replace, check to make sure it isnt the catch that is bent though
-rotrs are about $30 @ autozone, and easy to replace.. that issue is fairly common BTW
-something haning sdown, see if you can get a pic for us, you can host it for free here in your garage or www.photobucket.com


Just thought I'd try to help a bit ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks. I took the car back to the dealership and they are trying to save the sale. I have to say that is a nice shock for me as I have not had the best experience with dealerships lately.

They are keeping the car most of the day to check the transmission out and the sales man said if it is indeed the transmission they will either replace it or put me in another car. They are also going to address everything else as well if they replace the transmission or find out it's not bad.

We'll see what happens. I'm just glad they are trying to save the sale at least.
 

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these trannys have issues w/ the trans press. sensor, and one of the elec shift modules (forgot its real name) HOPEFULLY thats all it is.
Nice to hear the dealer is taking care of you like that!
keep us up to date, if they have another imp, make sure it has a 3.8 :biggrin:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I called the Dealership for an update and it appears to be the Transmission solenoid going bad so they are going to take the transmission apart to replace it. They are also fixing the seatbelt and steering column issue as well as the warped rotors.

Once it's all said and done, I should have a decent Impala I think :)
 

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I am glad to hear that the dealer is going to fix most of the problems. I have only been burnt once with a bad car. Do take the next car to a mechanic.
 

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Hoping things even out a little on the car - sorry that it took that route. It's easy to get wound up/excited about possibly purchasing a vehicle, but there's reason for the old rule of having a mechanic see it first.

Before I bought my wagon, I test-drove a 305 Chevy Caprice wagon. I was still pretty new at checking out vehicles for basic flaws, picking up the skills bit by bit - and in a way, I'm grateful that the seller (a "friend of a dealer", so he said) put off my request at having a mechanic see it. It put up a huge red flag - set in stone when he said, "You don't want the LT1 engine - not for your needs". A bit more condescension on his part, and I split. I was really miffed - mainly in that he stated that checking with a mechanic was completely unnecessary.

Hang in there - I'm glad they'll be doing the work. Make sure they do it right, that's for sure - maybe talk with the mechanic who helped you out.
 

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2001 3.4

i have a 2001 model 125,000miles bought with about 50,000 a couple yrs old ive never had any problems i dont know why everyone says the 3.4 sucks so bad its actully pretty good on gas i get about 18 city almost 30 hwy
 

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i have a 2001 model 125,000miles bought with about 50,000 a couple yrs old ive never had any problems i dont know why everyone says the 3.4 sucks so bad its actully pretty good on gas i get about 18 city almost 30 hwy
My '96ss V-8 gets about 17 city..if I behave & 25 hwy.....96k miles....and a WHOLE lot more fun to drive...lol.
 

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I was in need of a car as I only had a 1993 Explorer which was in rough shape and with me having bad credit, I had to settle for a place that would do on lot financing. I found a 2004 Impala 3.4 V6 for $8995 with 98,800 miles that I really liked and I've always wanted an Impala. It wasn't in the "best" shape as it was in a small accident so it had a small crack in the bumper. The driver smoked and there was few burn marks but nothing I couldn't live with.

I traded my Explorer in (they gave $1500 for it) and agreed to put $2000 down.

I got the car on Thursday and today is now Monday. I drove the car to work (30 miles one day) and felt the transmission shift hard a couple times but didn't think much of it. One day I was driving on the beach road and the transmission wouldn't shift gears. I was going between 25-35 and it wouldn't shift as I hit the gas, I just kept hearing the motor rive up. After a couple seconds the transmission changed gears and I was on my way. That was the only time it's slipped that bad. I decided to check the transmission fluid and found out that it was black (dark brown) and smelt burt. I knew what this mean't.

I took it to my mechanic and had him take a good look at it and he found the following wrong with it:

Transmission Bad ($1600 Min Rebuild)
Steering Axel Bad ($300 Replace/Lube)
Slight Engine Knock (said it's normal for this many miles, recommends using 10W40 oil now)
Tie Rods have slight play (said to wait it out for now)
Tires Worn (suggested replacement within 3 months)
Front Driver Seatbelt Broken (not bolted to floor, just hanging lose)
Hood Lach (suggests replacing it as it's damaged and hard to shut hood.
Warped Rotors (causing a loud squeak sound and viberation while braking)
Something hanging Down (I seem to scrape the driveway very bad)

The point is, I got this car as I am going through bankrupcy and needed something I could depend on and now I think I just have added another thing to the bankrupcy list. There is no way I can afford to make payments and fix all this stuff and all this stuff would be more than the car is even worth.

The mechanic just said "I hope you got a good deal on this" and all I could do was laugh. He said he recommends people bringing cars in before buying it and said when they do, 9 out of 10 times he suggests not getting the car. The sad part is, the dealership I got my car from is the ONLY dealership near the mechanic... so I'm sure 95% of the cars he's checked before people bought was from that dealership.

At least I learned something either way. I learned that dealerships are rip offs and that I'm an idiot for falling for their traps. I've been screwed over by a lot of dealerships, but in the end I always ended up with a good car.
man, i just got the same 04 3.4 liter, for the same price as you, only difference is, mine has 29,000 miles :biggrin: its my first car too.
 

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the 3.4 has a few issues to watch out for, biggest one being the Intake Manifold gaskets... they're not hard to swap, but if you take it to a dealer they'll charge an arm and a leg...
 

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Transmission Bad ($1600 Min Rebuild) www.tripleedgeperformance.com
Steering Axel Bad ($300 Replace/Lube) ake sure its no the intermediate shaft, theres an issue w/ these I'll see if i can find you some more info on it tomorrow
Slight Engine Knock (said it's normal for this many miles, recommends using 10W40 oil now) 1040 will not FIX the proble, or make it less of a problem, is it a rod knock or a stuck lifter?
Tie Rods have slight play (said to wait it out for now) normal for hi milage
Tires Worn (suggested replacement within 3 months)
Front Driver Seatbelt Broken (not bolted to floor, just hanging lose)they dont bolt to the floor if you have bucket seats (not sure about the bench setup) they bolt to the seat, you can get a replace ment @ home depot, its an 18mm nut (same size as the bolts on the struts if you need to compare in the store ;) )
Hood Lach (suggests replacing it as it's damaged and hard to shut hood.
Warped Rotors (causing a loud squeak sound and viberation while braking) another typical W-body issue
Something hanging Down (I seem to scrape the driveway very bad) Prob front air dam, DO NOT REMOVE IT, fix it, theres only "christmas trees" holding it up IIRC
 

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the 3.4 has a few issues to watch out for, biggest one being the Intake Manifold gaskets... they're not hard to swap, but if you take it to a dealer they'll charge an arm and a leg...
i found this out the hard way. took it to the dealer the first time. swapped them the second time with the help of a friend.
 
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