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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the torx i had didnt work then i tried hammering screwdrivers in and that didnt work. what tools would i have to get this out. i called auto parts store and they said drill head until it comes out and leave the threads in.
 

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I agree with the parts store, that is just for factory assembly to hold the rotor till the rest of the car is assembled.
 

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I always use a manual impact tool, and strike it with a hammer while holding it in the CCW direction.

But then again, I put anti-seize on the threads when I install the new rotor, since the screw holds the rotor correctly and makes installing the caliper with new pads a little easier, as it doesn't actually go into the installed position until the lug nuts are at least snug. I'd tend to leave it out since, I risk having an issue some day, but it's nice to have the rotor in place when installing the new pads in the caliper, so I make sure to anti-seize it every time, and I haven't screwed myself yet doing it this way.

I learned in wrenching dirt bikes in the old days that you must use an impact tool to save the fastener installation surfaces, and the slight rap with a hammer makes the fastener come right lose, with much less chance of damage to the head.

I have a torx socket kit, with varying driver sizes depending on torx bit number. I use a 3/8-1/4" adapter on the impact driver, and use the small torx driver bit which is 1/4" drive.

It doesn't take very much of a rap to make it work, and rather than even try to break it loose with a ratchet, I just get out the impact and it's a no swear task.

These things are cheap, but I have a Snap-On one myself now:
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_14?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=manual+impact+driver&sprefix=manual+impact+%2Caps%2C203&crid=190ZBGM5KDWBJ&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Amanual+impact+driver
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well turns out it was ez. i do have a bunch of torx but i guess when i put on the old ones at 50K, i messed something up. a few seconds with a normal drill bit and the head popped off and when i got the rotor off the screw just unscrewed as if it was brand new.

i already had removed the other screw 50 ago so obviously it truly is not needed. so lets hope these OE pads last 100K like the others and the rotors at least 50k

i do have one question. what is the official wrench to hold the inside of the pin while you are tightening the caliper bolt on the slider? my 11/16 seemed to fit on the one but then not the other. it was like the lip was too close and i couldnt put on the wrench. i had to use vice grips as a stopper to tighten the caliper bolt.


is there an officil torque for the slider bolt and the huge bolt that holds on the caliper to the car? i just tighten the heck out of it mostly.
 
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