2009 Impala,3.5 engine........Hey folks...Noticed my passenger side inner tie rod boot is leaking ps fluid. Has anybody replaced the rack themselves? How hard and how long? I have a 4 post hoist available and I need to also replace the ps lines. I patched 1 last year so may as well do them while Im in there. Thanks for your input.
Steering rack and pinion
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Since I just did this, but with a 3.9(same engine essentially).
Mine was as followed.
1. Remove both outer tie rods from steering knuckle.
2. Remove sway bar ( 4 15MM bolts 2 on each side, and two 13-14MM nuts on each side for the bushings)
3. Lower subframe. Two 18 or 19MM bolts on the rear. Gives you enough room to get the rack out.
4. Remove both 18MM nuts for the power steering lines on the rack.
5. Remove both bolts holding the rack onto the frame.
6. Remove the ISS(steering shaft) from the rack, 11MM bolt.
After all that fun stuff, it is sitting there loose and I was able to pull it out of the driver side tire area.
You will also need to remove the belt, power steering pump to get to both your power steering lines you are replacing.
May not need to remove sway bar but it helped a ton for me. And if your replacing the high pressure line it is almost needed to get it to snake around the whole engine.
Mine was as followed.
1. Remove both outer tie rods from steering knuckle.
2. Remove sway bar ( 4 15MM bolts 2 on each side, and two 13-14MM nuts on each side for the bushings)
3. Lower subframe. Two 18 or 19MM bolts on the rear. Gives you enough room to get the rack out.
4. Remove both 18MM nuts for the power steering lines on the rack.
5. Remove both bolts holding the rack onto the frame.
6. Remove the ISS(steering shaft) from the rack, 11MM bolt.
After all that fun stuff, it is sitting there loose and I was able to pull it out of the driver side tire area.
You will also need to remove the belt, power steering pump to get to both your power steering lines you are replacing.
May not need to remove sway bar but it helped a ton for me. And if your replacing the high pressure line it is almost needed to get it to snake around the whole engine.
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Here is some advice on the "leaky" steering racks. I remember that around 45k miles, I took my car to a dealer for some recall. They told me that my steering rack was leaking and needed to be replaced for $ 1,200 (the car was out of basic warranty by then and powertrain warranty does not cover steering racks). The "leak" was nothing more than wetness inside the boots when the boots were pulled back. I never lost a drop of power steering fluid and never saw any of it drip on the ground. I did not do anything with the "leaky rack" and now at 160k miles and some 5 years later it is not leaking any worse. So do not waste your money on a new rack unless it is really leaking. Slight wetness inside the boots is seepage from the seals, not serious leaking and will not cause any problems.
It looks like dealers will try to find any problem they can, even if it is not a problem, to get your money,
It looks like dealers will try to find any problem they can, even if it is not a problem, to get your money,
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how in the world did you get the 18mm flare nuts off of the rack for the lines?? I have a 18mm flare wrench, I took swaybar out, I lowered subframe and I still dont have any leverage either above or below to get the nuts to budge.. they have also been soaked in pb blaster..
I am replacing both steering lines (only the return line was leaking, but with all this work I'm replacing both)
any tips or tricks? I may just cut the lines and use a regular box wrench on it...I dont know yet.
I am replacing both steering lines (only the return line was leaking, but with all this work I'm replacing both)
any tips or tricks? I may just cut the lines and use a regular box wrench on it...I dont know yet.
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I've done a couple, but other than remembering the flare nuts were hard to get at, I can't recall many details (other than cussing a lot - seems like that goes with most repairs, tho
)But I do remember, dropping the subframe helped some. Also, separating the rack from the subframe was helpful, too. I ended up getting a sacrificial flare wrench and cutting it in two to help with the process.
I have some flare nut crows feet, too, but I can't recall if I used them or not. But they might be handy for going in from the top.
One key point is that, once you get the nuts broken loose, it's downhill after that. And you only need like a quarter turn to get them loose. So, if you can get the wrench positioned where you can get some leverage on it, you only need to turn it a little bit before it gets a lot easier.
Once you get the lines out, be sure to thoroughly clean up the PB-blaster.
HTH.
Doug
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433 Posts
thanks.. I am going to pick up some crows feet tomorrow... as for the flare nut at the pump it looks like I may need to take the pump off to get clearance for the flare wrench....
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You may need to borrow a wheel puller for the pump at the parts store. I think you'll need to remove the pulley wheel in order to remove the pump. For sure, it's needed on the 3.4L LA1. Not positive on your 3.5, tho.
[Update]My electronic manual says you need to remove the pulley wheel to get the pump out on the 3.5.
Doug
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its a 3.9 liter and the power steering pulley looks like a 5 star mag wheel.. so it has holes to get to the mounting bolts
like this
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like this
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Sorry - I saw 3.5 in the first post, but it wasn't yours
Anyway, according to my manual, the same applies for the 3.9. Yes, you can access the screws thru the openings in the wheel, but the wheel and pump form a sandwich around the boss where the pump mounts keeping the pump captive until the wheel is removed.
That said, with the pump mounting bolts out, you might try accessing the hose connection without removing the wheel. As I recall, the return hose could be accessed. Not sure about the high pressure hose.
If you subsequently need to remove the wheel, you'll need to put the bolts back in. (Ask me how I know this
)HTH.
Doug
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433 Posts
already have the return line off.. but the damn barb is right above the access for the flare nut for the pressure line.... whoever designed this thing needs to be shot
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new return line is in.. what a PITA.. I couldnt get the pressure line off and said to hell with it.. If it leaks I have a new line and will just take it somewhere to get it replaced..
hopefully I wont have the car all that much longer (probably next spring)
hopefully I wont have the car all that much longer (probably next spring)
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772 Posts
So what all did you replace, pump and rack and pinion? Or were you just replacing lines?
Did it fix the issues that you were having before replacing? I'm assuming you were having the "whine" noise right?
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we just did this , took out the 18 mm bolts , and the 11 mm steering shaft connector bolt , then lifted the unit out of bracket twisted it and pulled it down and towards the driver side , then break the 18 mm line fittings
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