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Discussion Starter #1
got text message on the dash about stabilitrack and the power steering and the yellow lights on the dash for stabilitrack and ABS are on

how much is this gonna cost me? parking sure is a bear with no PS.

i'm assuming brakes will function normally except abs?
 

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i back into my parking space after lunch and now i have 'rear camera symbols not avaliable'

so i guess the car is falling apart?
 

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got text message on the dash about stabilitrack and the power steering and the yellow lights on the dash for stabilitrack and ABS are on

how much is this gonna cost me? parking sure is a bear with no PS.

i'm assuming brakes will function normally except abs?
I don't know much about electric steering, but I know there have been problems for at least some manufacturers (if not all of them). What I've seen is that wiring is sometimes part of the problem. Motors draw lots of current, so a little corrosion anywhere in the path can create a voltage drop that might affect other sub-systems in the car. Given that there is a power steering warning, I'd start with that. Examine the connectors going to the power steering rack. See if there's any sign of excessive wear on the wires or crud buildup on the connectors.

When my SIL's Fusion had its electric power steering go bad, I learned there were several recalls among a few car makers. My take is that problems with it are not uncommon. One had to do with a connector buried inside the unit. Apparently, losing the signal thru that connector was a common failure mode for that unit. (The signal originated at a position sensor which indicates which way and how far the "wheel" has been turned. Modern features , such as stability control take over the steering , and when that position signal gets lost in the bad connection, the stability control computer (or computing process) will alert and disable itself, hence the stabilitrack warning. I can't, however, explain the ABS warning.

If there's a recall for your year, there might could be some warranty coverage with it.

But the first step is going to an autoparts store and having them read the codes.

If a replacement rack is needed, if you consider doing it yourself, a key obstacle is whether the subframe needs to be dropped. (And I'm not sure about your year Impala.) But if you can find a manual somewhere that says so, that can be a deal enabler - taking the tires off and disconnecting some tie rod ends from the steering knuckles is not very difficult - as long as you have whatever separator tool is needed for the tie rod ends. It's an inexpensive, rinky-dink tool , but if you don't have it when you need it, it can turn the DIY car experience into hell week :)

Anyway, getting the rack out is a lot easier if you don't have to drop the subframe. It's a little messy because of the need to open the power steering lines, but it's a doable weekend driveway project.

I hope you are able to get it fixed soon - driving without power steering can be dangerous.

Doug

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Discussion Starter #4
i have an autoxray at home so i can read the codes tonight. i saw Cruze website where they had engine shutdown/cutdown the speed so i'm glad i dont have that.

and thankfully my garage can get me in monday. he's not cheap but never will rip you off. i'm hoping ABS and the other light are just somehow connected. maybe its a sensor..cheap? :)
 

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Check your wheel bearing sensor rings to see if they're broken. They're especially prone to breakage in the rear as the lack of axles leaves it more exposed to the elements.

Once this happens, the ABS sensor sees an implausible signal within that wheel and creates those symptoms. ABS/Stabilitrak get disabled due to the lack of plausible wheel speed in a certain wheel. Power steering also relies on this due to the fact that it has variable power steering which relies on an algorithm based on wheel speeds (as a safety feature, it stiffens when this happens so you have better control in high speeds). Finally, the rear backup camera symbols and auditory signals require data from the ultrasonic sensors as well as the individual speeds of the wheels so it can determine the rate at which the vehicle approaches obstacles; however, you should still have rear cross traffic alert.

Only solution requires replacing the problematic wheel bearing. One can prevent future breakage by installing a cover to protect it.

Similar platform car and diagnosis:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
wow this could be wheel bearing? that would suck. id have to check records if i had that done. i think i had hub before. def rear shocks and front struts. my autoxray went up to 2006 and then just obdii general setting. unsure if i can update to 2014. said no codes. unsure if thats right but no CEL was on ever.


i have continual problems with wheel balancing and have the all you can eat plan at my local tires shop. just had it done 2 weeks ago but i swear was bad the day i left there. could vibration be symptom of anyting in this thread?
 

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wow this could be wheel bearing? that would suck. id have to check records if i had that done. i think i had hub before. def rear shocks and front struts. my autoxray went up to 2006 and then just obdii general setting. unsure if i can update to 2014. said no codes. unsure if thats right but no CEL was on ever.


i have continual problems with wheel balancing and have the all you can eat plan at my local tires shop. just had it done 2 weeks ago but i swear was bad the day i left there. could vibration be symptom of anyting in this thread?
It does not necessarily have to involve wheel bearing wear. You could theoretically have 100 miles on the bearing itself and still experience this issue as it has to do with the magnet array attached to the wheel bearing, not the ball bearings themselves. If you watch the video, you will see that the magnet array attached to the bearing has a few magnets missing. The only way to replace the missing magnets involves replacing the entire wheel bearing assembly as they do not sell the magnet array separately.

You could check your wheel bearing magnets by looking at them from behind the spindle/wheel bearing housing assembly and rotating the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
left rear hub. he said will be same price as one i got 2 years ago for right rear. but that one was around 40K i think. this lasted 104K

he hopes all the warnings go away but it still kind of amazes me that a bad rear hub kills power steering

i saw some TSBs over the weekend but i guess in no case was HUB one of them.
 

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I have this issue too. It comes on, and goes off after a while. Taking it in to get looked at, just bought the car and still warranty. There were a few lights on when i first looked at it. and they said they would fix them, and they did, but this one just keeps poppen up periodically. Seen where it might be getting wet on the bearing or something like that,but it happened yesterday, and I didnt drive thru any water, soooo, IDK...
 

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well i'm over a week and no issues so it did fix it. money can solve everything
 

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Just had this happen to my 2014 LTZ. Rear left tone ring broke and I needed to replace the hub. What do these covers look like that were mentioned above??
 

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I have a 2014 LTZ with 46,000 miles. I bought it in August with 38,000 miles and got the extended warranty. End of December, the Stabilitrack, ABS, power steering, cruise control, etc. all went out. Took it in to our local Chevy dealer and it was diagnosed as a LR hub/wheel assembly. $100 deductible and I'm good to go. Less than a month later, same thing. Took it back in and now its the RR hub/wheel assembly. Then got a call later that day and they also found the RF hub/wheel bearing assembly bad. I'm really struggling with the purchase of this car. I bought a newer vehicle to not have car problems and it seems I've had nothing but problems with it. I'm thinking I should have stayed with my 2005 SAAB with 190,000 miles on it...
 

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same here last night

I purchased a 2015 impala LT last week with 104,000 miles, had same thing happen on the way home last night...snow was packed around the wheel wells so bad that the tire was rubbing...I went to the car wash and sprayed out the wheel well area really good and the lights all went out and car is acting normal again
 

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Hey Bud, I had very similar occurrence a few weeks ago and lucked out that all I needed to do was look behind each wheel to where the ABS sensor plugs in and got some spray electrical connection cleaner and elec. lubricant and did each wheels connectors and POOF! Problem was in the rear view. The one causing the problem was the front passenger side. When I saw this was all it was I was truly amazed and grateful as symptoms like that seemed like bad things were coming. But Big YAYS Over here!
 

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Driving today and went to pass a car and the error came on that was service stabilitrack, power steering, ABS light on the dash and when it's in reverse it says parking sensor not working. Just had the front wheel bearings replaced, and front and rear rotors with in a month and had new tires put on yesterday. Any suggestions on what to have them look at?

Car has 154K miles on it. 2014 gen9 impala.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I would suspect the wheel speed sensor wiring. It's a very common issue on these cars. The wire gets broken (underneath the wire insulation) and causes it to make poor contact during turns. Usually, if it happens during right turns, it's the drivers side wiring and if it happens during left turns, it's the passenger side wiring. You can get replacement wiring "pigtails" online for under $10 each and then just splice them in.

Keep in mind that a lot of times (probably even most of the time), you won't actually be able to see any issues with the wiring - but splicing in a new pigtail will usually solve the issue.

There are many posts about this issue on the forum - you'll find them with some searching.

Here is a post where I took a few pictures when I replaced one on my 2012:

https://www.impalaforums.com/showthread.php?p=2942562

Hopefully that helps.
 

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So I have a 12 impala. For most part, been great car with no issues other than ignition recall. Roughly 3 times in the past I back out of driveway and traction light would pop and go off. No thought to it. This morning after work, driving home both the light for TC and message for service stabilitrak and TC came on, but also engine light blinking. Diagnosed at parts store and got codes C0561 and also P0302. #2 cyl misfire. NEVER have I had a issue-the car would shit and get. After 6 hours of reading, (not yet inspected) seems to be couple diff possibilities with the speed sensor and or wiring but the misfire. I use only wix filters and have never ever ran nothing but 91 octane through the car. Bought with 27,000 miles and now has a bit over 126,000. Question is "are the 2 codes related in some way. Mind you.... Ive never changed or looked at the plugs or wires cuz its been that great of a car. I'm no dummy but field of least experience is automotive. Growing up milking cows, only issues we had was the damn David Brown tractor starting---starting fluid....what I'm saying is PLEASE GIVE ME 5 MINUTES OF YOUR TIME AND HELP ME
 

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Plug change due ~100k mi. No plug wires, you have coil-on-plug. May also need to replace speed sensor wires.
 

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So I have a 12 impala. For most part, been great car with no issues other than ignition recall. Roughly 3 times in the past I back out of driveway and traction light would pop and go off. No thought to it. This morning after work, driving home both the light for TC and message for service stabilitrak and TC came on, but also engine light blinking. Diagnosed at parts store and got codes C0561 and also P0302. #2 cyl misfire. NEVER have I had a issue-the car would shit and get. After 6 hours of reading, (not yet inspected) seems to be couple diff possibilities with the speed sensor and or wiring but the misfire. I use only wix filters and have never ever ran nothing but 91 octane through the car. Bought with 27,000 miles and now has a bit over 126,000. Question is "are the 2 codes related in some way. Mind you.... Ive never changed or looked at the plugs or wires cuz its been that great of a car. I'm no dummy but field of least experience is automotive. Growing up milking cows, only issues we had was the damn David Brown tractor starting---starting fluid....what I'm saying is PLEASE GIVE ME 5 MINUTES OF YOUR TIME AND HELP ME
Like @Shelia stated above, this is two different issues. I would start with splicing in new speed sensor pigtails (like $10 each on Ebay) and a spark plug change and go from there. There may or may not be more to the misfire, but at 126k miles, I'd at least start with the plug change and then re-evaluate. My post above contains a few pics of the pigtail replacement - any questions, just ask.
 
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