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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Service Traction Control problem Update from the Stealership

I read the post below, and it really doesn't cover what is happening to mine.

We have had our fair share of ice and snow in IL, so for the past 4 days I have had this problem:

After startup, all the cluster lights go out as usual, and then after 1 minute, 15 seconds of driving, the Service Traction light, Trac off light, and ABS light come on, and stay on for the rest of the trip. The STL goes out after a moment, but the rest stay on.

Could this be an ABS module problem, or a wheel speed sensor corrosion problem?

ETA:
Just ran a quick errand, I noticed a slight vibration/shudder with my left foot near the firewall, right before the lights came on.

Also, when I started it back up within 2 min of shutting it off, the lights were already on.

Thanks
 

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sounds like you may have a wheel bearing goign out on you. thats pretty much how it starts, then a whirring, then a grinding, then clunk, its broken.

Theyre pretty easy to replace, basically its a glorified brake job, the only thing that wont be easy is removing the axle from the hub (usually a PITA on hi mile cars) but you can rent an axle puller tool to make it easier. should only take about 1/2hr-1hr (per side) depending on how long it takes to remove the axle

that being said, check the boots on the axle, and surrounding area, it may be the axle as well....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The noise only lasts for a few seconds, then the lights kick on, and then I don't hear/feel it again. It feels like a pump/device is shuddering/pulsating, trying to work, and when it can't, it trips the lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just got back from the dealership.

They had the car 7 hours:mad:.

The problem is the left rear wheel speed sensor is reading open, causing the lights. Cost $750!!!!

They also said the thermostat gasket is leaking and would "glady replace it" , and the thermostat for $110!

They said that the entire wheel hub assy had to be replaced, is this true?

What options do I have?

I am pretty proficient in auto repair, I stay away from transmissions and differentials, but work on pretty much everything else.

Thanks.
 

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Contact our wrong wheel drive Guru...04detroit on this forum...and yes, the hubs on your car do suck and need replacing after short periods.
 

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sounds about right except for the t-stat gasket needing replaced. They rarely ever leak. You should look yourself to see if its leaking. Chances are its the lower intake that's leaking.
 

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sensor is built into the hub so yes.. You can get replacements for as cheap as $100, Timkens usually go for ~$200, GM OEM replacement $350+ labor is a few hours, but its not hard to do yourself, espcially the rears, and if you do your own brakes this should not be too big of a deal. I havent done my rears yet, but the fronts are the "hard ones" b/c of the axle shaft, sometimes they dont like to "come out of their home":mad: If the t-stat/gasket is bad its literally 2-10mm bolts under the engine cover, front of the engine driver's side where the rad hose meets the LIM, and then bleed the coolant out.

X2 on the LIM though the gaskets suck, and then theres issues w/ the LIM/UIM construction as well, but thats another story. They're not TOO hard to replace IF you are 1/2 way decent w/ cars. If the dealer fixes expect around $600

btw i forget 3.8 or 3.4?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
3.8L

Thanks guys, you have been a great help.

If it is the LIM gasket, any indicators to look for?

Also, any reccomendations on who to get the hub assy from?

I have NAPA, Auto Zone, Oreilly's. and Advance Auto here.
 

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for the Hub, ZZP/Intense sell cheapos for ~$100, call around locally and see if any have the Timken ones, if not, ZZP/Intense ;)

LIM
slime in either the rad cap/oil neck would be one possible sign
constantly refilling coolant
When the LIM gasket fails, the leak may be to the inside of the engine (whence it drips into the crankcase and is mixed with the oil to form a chocolatey-milkshake mess); OR, it leaks to the outsides of the heads, at the ends.
The ends of the heads (both ends of both heads) *should* be clean and dry; mebbe have a little built-up dust, and possibly some condensed oil vapor (especially at the right front, as you view the engine from the bumper; where some oil vapor *might* escape from the PCV valve).
If there are 'tear-stains', or actual wetness, it comes from that leaking gasket between the head and the LIM gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just got back from a 1500 mile vacation trip.

It was dry when I left, and had no problems for 5 days.

We left on Friday, and it had rained, and was a light mist.

Guess what happened?

After we had driven 200 miles, and no rain, and dry road surface, it went away again.

I am wondering if some dilectric grease in the connector will fix the problem?
 

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They also said the thermostat gasket is leaking and would "glady replace it" , and the thermostat for $110!

I am pretty proficient in auto repair, I stay away from transmissions and differentials, but work on pretty much everything else.

Thanks.
Yeah, umm $110 for a t-stat fix :confused: they got to be out of their minds, i know that was an old post and all but jesus that's rediculous. That's more of a scam than my inbox full of "UK NATIONAL LOTTERY WINNER" emails.
I don't even own an Impala but my roommate does, I work on my own car myself, so I'm helpin him out.
 

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Wheel Bearing for Traction System

I have a defective wheel bearing, which is also shutting down the traction system/ABS...at least mine is under warranty and GM is honoring it?!
 

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new here

i have the same problm but mine only comes on in snow or rain i just got new brakes an rotors on all 4 my barrings are going out on front left 289.00 to get them done. do u think its the same thing, some say i should get my brakes flush
 
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