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Discussion Starter #1
Hey y'all I'm new to chevy impala ss forums :confused: but i hope to get help as i would give it if known. Well I need to change the radiator but I have to do it myself ":mad:ECONOMY IS REALLY BAD IN MICHIGAN:mad:" so if someone could give me some good pointers I would really appreciated.

p.s.

If someone knows of a good stop a leak for impala it will be appreciated. Oh yeah I don't know where's the leak but water is dripping till i have more info on replacement on radiator and buying it. My car is a HD 2002 impala 3.8 Engine "S.W.A.T. CAR" THANKS CHEVY LOVERS..:cool:
 

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Oh yeah I don't know where's the leak but water is dripping till i have more info...
First before replacing anything please locate where the leak is from. Blindly replacing parts is not a good idea for you could replace many good parts trying to find the bad one.

If unable to find the leak yourself have a friend whom knows about car mechanics to help you locate this leak you have. It may be as simple as a bad lower radiator hose.
 

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Thanks

Well as for friends no I don't have none..I'm from Texas. Second I tried several things first before diagnosing car. 1. change thermostat 2.check water pump no leaks 3. Check hoses 4.flush radiator more than once to make sure nothing bad is inside. Okay so I jack up the car so I can see if I could find the leak so when putting water on the radiator water just started to drip from bottom of the radiator as if I'm just putting water outside "which i didn't" . I look with mirror and light and could not get a good look of were is the leak. If I can manage to take the radiator at least i could welded or patch it and have the knowledge on how to take it off so I can put new one..That's all i have..Like i said its hard and there is no money for mechanics so I must do this with the help the book and this forum. thanks for replying back sooo fast..thank you 4 your info
 

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It sounds like you have narrowed it down to the radiator then. On mine I had a leak on the lower tank which was hard to see, only found where it leaked from after I pulled it out.

Basically you need to unhook the negative battery cable, remove the right front fender upper brace, fan shroud, both coolant hoses, trans cooler lines (may need to bend a flat tip screw driver to help) and then lift out the radiator.
 

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It's not a hard job. It's just the row of bolts on the fan shroud holding it in after you take off the hoses and trans cooling lines.

Don't drive the car on plain water. Plain water can destroy the water pump - I've done it!

Before you take out the old rad you could open the drain cock on the bottom of the rad, take off the rad cap and put a garden hose in there and run the car until the water is clear.

Coolant kills grass and is poison for cats and dogs. I try to catch it in a container and pour it down the drain.

Good luck!
 

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where @ in MI?

also theres no drain on our rads AFAIK, the trans lines are quick fit, you'll need to "pop" the black cap, use a small flathead to pop the retaining clip, the either pry w/ a screwdriver or grab them w/ a pr of needle nose, and the lines should just slide out...
youll have to remove the cross braces, or atleast slide them out of the way, and you may want to remove the battery for a little extra wiggle room.

You can use barsleak from murrays/autozone, but i try to stay away from stuff like that..
 

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Be careful when removing the trans lines not to lose the little E clips cause they will shoot off when pulling them (trust me i know :wink:). I put a 1-800- radiator in mine cause they offer a life time warranty but dont know if you have them up there.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Guys

Well yes I been running the car with water only, but its not even 3 miles were we go and we always put water soon as we turn off car. Thanks on the pointer dintymoore about the water but I must run to autoplace. I'll try not to run it too much. I kind of have a good idea how to with the manual and y'all info. Well I don't really want to use stop a leak stuff but on Wednesday wife has to go to work and i'm still looking for radiator that's not $300.00. I just need to temp stop the water from running out so i can at least put some 50/50. Hopefully I will video tape my encounter with this :eek:radiator:eek: and post it here or at least put the link if its possible for other people who don't know how to do, just trying to pass on the info y'all gave me.

P.S.

Anyone has a good idea were can I order a radiator that won't cost me an arm and a leg "I'm not cheap but times are though" I saw some on ebay but I don't know :confused: and once again thanks CHEVY LOVERS :biggrin: for all y'all s knowledge
 

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Jeez

Man that's what im talking about..I'm checking them out as I speak :tongue:type..Thanks man..great help
 

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Straight water isn't going to do anything short term, you just wouldn't want to run it that way for weeks. They sell water pump lubricant you can use, but a few days of water is nothing.

I didn't know that there was no drain cock on that car... kind of a bummer as far as flushing goes, but your car is probably getting flushed out just by using it.

Back in the 70's I needed a rad in my 68 Imp and I went to Midas and the guy told me "you could do this" and showed me his whole routine while he replaced the cooling system. I haven't paid to have one done since.

Certain things like rads, brakes and ac are so worth learning - you save a mint and they're not really that hard.
 

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Straight water isn't going to do anything short term, you just wouldn't want to run it that way for weeks. They sell water pump lubricant you can use, but a few days of water is nothing.

I didn't know that there was no drain cock on that car... kind of a bummer as far as flushing goes, but your car is probably getting flushed out just by using it.

Back in the 70's I needed a rad in my 68 Imp and I went to Midas and the guy told me "you could do this" and showed me his whole routine while he replaced the cooling system. I haven't paid to have one done since.

Certain things like rads, brakes and ac are so worth learning - you save a mint and they're not really that hard.
THIS! Oh, so much this! Or if you need it done quickly, you may even want to find a local smaller radiator shop. You can sometimes get a rad repaired for far less than the cost of a new one. You may just have a cracked side tank. My local guy does those for $75-$100 tops and he flushes the system.

Open up the ol' phone book and find some guys that do free estimates and see what they say. In the meantime, pick up a service manual and start reading. I have saved a TON of money by doing simple(r) things myself.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Man thanks so much for the info about the radiators. I got mine for 126.00 + 6.00 for a radiator cap deliver to my house, man that's service and since I couldn't see the size of the core so they are bringing me 2 sizes and they could tell the exact radiator without me getting the wrong one..thanks 04DetroitLS and every single one who put time to trying to help me..:happy3:
Now the first phase is finished now the second phase is to take and :eek:put back new radiator:eek:..wish me luck..:eek::confused::mad::biggrin::cool: :rolleyes:
 

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Hello folks. New to this forum but not new to forums. I am searching for info for my in laws 2000 Impala with the 3.8. He has a radiator leak and as I was looking at it yetsreday, it appears in order to change the radiator, you have to remove the upper motor mounts. Is this true or am I just seeing things? From the responses to this thread, no one has said anything about the motor mounts. Thanks in advance.
 

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I just unbolt them from the core support and swing them onto the engine, easy enough to put back that way. Battery has to come out too.
 

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Hello my friend well I had lots of questions about the radiator since I didn't but guess no more I did a visual walktrhough. check it out here is the link..well the good luck my friend
http://www.impalaforums.com/diy-do-...-radiator-replacement-visual-walkthrough.html

I hope this answers your question about it :yahoo:. Let me know if you have a question..

I did see that writeup and you did a great job. I did not see however if you supported the eng while the mounts are disconnected.
 

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I did see that writeup and you did a great job. I did not see however if you supported the eng while the mounts are disconnected.
No need to support the engine, those supports are for when it is running to keep it from over twisting. The cradle keeps the motor supported vertically.
Like member Kingnutin said just unbolt the dog bones from the radiator support and set them up on the motor. Once you are done you may have to move the engine a bit to put the bolts back in but it is very easy to do.
 
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