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Discussion Starter #1
I read that to remove the engine cover you remove the oil filter cap and pull it straight off, however, it doesn't appear to be working. I have a 2014 LTZ. On the cover, there is one bolt that shows. Do you have to remove that bolt or does it just bypass that bolt on the way off. The bolt is in the upper left side if you're in front of the car facing the engine. I got the two clips on the right and removed the oil filler cap, but there seems to be a hold up with that bolt but admittedly, I have not pulled up that hard - yet.

BTW, does anyone know what that bolt is called and what type of driver it takes to remove it? Mine looks like it's been stripped so I'll have to remove it at some point and replace it but need the right driver.

FWIW, I'm replacing the air intake hose assembly. Must be dry rotted/over heated because it was crispy and cracked when I changed the air filter. Got it duct taped (unfortunately) for now until I can get a replacement part. Which also unfortunately is $75+. Bummer.
 

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After the oil cover comes off, it should just pop off. There's little clips holding it in place. A little force will get it lifted off. Also, the duct should be covered under your federal emissions warranty up 80k miles.
 

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I read that to remove the engine cover you remove the oil filter cap and pull it straight off, however, it doesn't appear to be working. I have a 2014 LTZ. On the cover, there is one bolt that shows. Do you have to remove that bolt or does it just bypass that bolt on the way off. The bolt is in the upper left side if you're in front of the car facing the engine. I got the two clips on the right and removed the oil filler cap, but there seems to be a hold up with that bolt but admittedly, I have not pulled up that hard - yet.

BTW, does anyone know what that bolt is called and what type of driver it takes to remove it? Mine looks like it's been stripped so I'll have to remove it at some point and replace it but need the right driver.

FWIW, I'm replacing the air intake hose assembly. Must be dry rotted/over heated because it was crispy and cracked when I changed the air filter. Got it duct taped (unfortunately) for now until I can get a replacement part. Which also unfortunately is $75+. Bummer.
The bolt is removed with a T-30 (Torx) bit.

I have a 2014 Impala 2LTZ. I never understood why GM installed a bolt that requires a special Torx bit to remove, to remove the engine cover.

I just replaced the air intake hose on mine, 38,xxx miles, as it was dry rotted and the edges of the folds were split.

It the bolt is stipped, you could probably remove it with a needle nose locking pliers.

When you replace the air intake hose, you must remove and reuse a small tube / fresh air hose assembly that attaches to a nipple on the replace (and original) hose assembly (and runs to the front, left of the engine). It has a “quick disconnect” fitting - use your fingers to squeeze the off-white plastic connectors and the hose connector will slip right off of the old hose. To reconnect the tube / hose on the new one - simply push it on.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
After the oil cover comes off, it should just pop off. There's little clips holding it in place. A little force will get it lifted off. Also, the duct should be covered under your federal emissions warranty up 80k miles.
Thanks.

Unfortunately, the car has over 100K on it. Thanks for the thought though. Sure would have been nice to save the cost of replacing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The bolt is removed with a T-30 (Torx) bit.

I have a 2014 Impala 2LTZ. I never understood why GM installed a bolt that requires a special Torx bit to remove, to remove the engine cover.
So, that bolt does have to come off? Sorry to ask, but that conflicts with JaelenK. Just want to confirm. Sounds like if you know it's a T-30, you've probably been there done that.
 

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If it's the plastic cover over the engine i just take my oil cover off. But forgive me, i could be wrong so don't listen to me lol.
 

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So, that bolt does have to come off? Sorry to ask, but that conflicts with JaelenK. Just want to confirm. Sounds like if you know it's a T-30, you've probably been there done that.
Yes, the bolt must be removed. The oil fill cap also must be removed prior to removing the cover.

Once removed, the cover simply pops-off. There are several ball studs on the engine which press fit into the underside of the cover. It is very easy to remove and replace.

If you are going to replace the air intake hose, it is also very easy to do (with the engine cover off). Follow my previous instructions on removing the quick-disconnect hose connector that is reused. Once you remove the quick-disconnect fitting, pivot the tube/hose slightly forward (so you can remove the air intake hose) - the other end is attached to a fitting on the front, driver side of the engine valve cover and simply rotates. After replacing the air intake hose, pivot the small tube/hose/fitting back to the nipple on the air intake hose and reconnect. With the engine cover removed, it should be very obvious what I have described.

Good luck.
 

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One additional piece of advice.

After removing the engine air cover, remove the fasteners for the air box lid (Phillips screws). Lift the air box lid one or two inches, then wiggle and twist the lid. It will slide out of the existing air intake hose. Then remove and replace the air intake hose. Then twist and wiggle the air box lid opening into the new air intake hose.

The new GM part comes with the air intake hose fasteners (screw clamps) attached to the hose. The original assembly also has an odd looking air bellow attached to the hose with a permanent band clamp. The new assembly also comes with this attached. There is nothing to transfer from the old air intake hose when you install the new hose assembly.
 

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There is a sensor mounted in the lid of the air box cover. It does not need to be disconnected, as you will only lift the lid several inches, remove it from the duct, then set it back down on the air box until you install the new duct.

If you want to disconnect the sensor’s electrical connector, there is a bright red tab that you pull straight back (away from the connector). It exposes a black plastic tab that you push, then wiggle and pull the connector out of the sensor. Then reconnect at end of replacement.
 

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Noticed my intake is cracked too around the outside corners of flex ribs but it doesn't look to be all the way through...yet. Is this a GM only part? Not seeing anything in the other major online part vendors. Would rather not pay $80 only to have it crack in another few years.
 

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If it doesn'tget replaced, your check engine light will come on since it will cause a leak in the vacuum. Such a crappy part. There needs to be a recall for it.
 

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If it doesn'tget replaced, your check engine light will come on since it will cause a leak in the vacuum. Such a crappy part. There needs to be a recall for it.
That'd require GM to be proactive instead of retroactive and admit there's a problem. Hope you can hold your breath longer than I can. :|
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
I got the part today for just under $85 including tax. I was lucky enough to find it on line and the place was near by. It was a GM (Cadillac) dealer. They wouldn’t give me the part for that price if I walked in, but I could (and did) buy it on line and picked it up. Walk in price $119. Go figure. I’m not sure if the part dry rotted, but the replacement part feels more substantial and flexible than the original part. Maybe they’ve improved the part a bit but since it’s warranted for 80K under the emissions warranty, they figure that’s good enough. It’s not, but that’s how they roll.

Putting it on tonight. Don’t expect any issues given the help on this forum. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Done

Installed the part tonight. No problems. 10 minute job. Getting the information on here made it a snap. Getting the part for $80 was a bonus.

Thanks 1999 White C5 Coupe. Your instructions were spot on.

To close out the thread, yes, you need to remove the bolt in the upper left side of the engine cover and it does take a T-30 bit.
 
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