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Reduced engine power P2135

3512 Views 5 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  hatzie
I was on my way to meet my parents about 40 miles out of town. I felt a jerk and service traction control, service stabili trak and reduced engine power flashed. My speed started to drop and I had to keep It floored to make It to the rest stop.
Restarted no change, Idle was erratic and going crazy. Cleared all codes with my blue driver and everything went back to normal and I drove fine the rest of the way. When I bought this car back In May 2018 I did clean the throttle body and never had Issues until now. I seriously have to get this fixed because I can't have this happen on my way to work, cause I have a feeling next time I won't be as lucky. Thanks 2008 Impala SS
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TPS or Accelerator Pedal Sensor.
There was a service bulletin on this.
https://www.impalaforums.com/chevy-impala-8th-gen-discussion/986722-accelerator-pedal-position-sensor-recall.html

This is on a pickup but it should be roughly the same deal.
TPS or Accelerator Pedal Sensor.
There was a service bulletin on this.
https://www.impalaforums.com/chevy-impala-8th-gen-discussion/986722-accelerator-pedal-position-sensor-recall.html

This is on a pickup but it should be roughly the same deal.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D5JFju6Y694
It did the same thing on the way back yesterday, but drove fine after clearing the code. So I ordered a OEM throttle body off Amazon for $133. I dove It to work today In town and back home with no problems. It only happens after driving for awhile so Im hoping this throttle body fixes It. Another thing when It was acting up yesterday I was watching throttle position and with pedal position at 100% the commanded throttle actuator wouldn't go past 34%. Thanks again man.
Be sure to do a throttle position re-learn after you swap the throttle body.
Be sure to do a throttle position re-learn after you swap the throttle body.
How do I do that? The throttle body was supposed to be here today but because of the storm It's been delayed. It hasn't left me stranded yet.
You'll need an MDI with Tech2Win on your laptop or a Tech2 with CAN-DI and the latest GM NAO flash card or a bi-directional diag tool that covers your vehicle. A hacked copy of Tech2Win and the Tech 2 NAO 33.004 binary comes with the Asian WiFi MDI clones and VXDiag.

On the Tech 2 it's Powertrain Control Module/Special Functions/Reset Idle Learn.

Tech2Win is the Tech2 software running on a Windows PC using a GM J2534 passthrough tool like the Bosch MDI or a clone or VXDiag.

If you google it there are some other methods but they are less than 100% reliable.

I would stay away from non-WiFi versions of the MDI clones. They are usually re-packaged VXDiag tools for double the price.

Some of the bi-directional Autel and other tools can do this but they cost more than a good WiFi MDI clone or a Tech 2 clone.
The Autel bi-directional handheld and tablet tools are around $500, AutoEnginuity is around $500 to do GM... $250 tool/software and $250 GM extensions and you'll need a laptop for AutoEnginuity.
A Good WiFi MDI is around $225 but you'll need a laptop too.
A Good Chinese Tech2 clone with Can-DI in a cardboard box is around $250 complete with a Linear Flash card with GM NAO 33.004. A blowmolded case will cost you around $100 more. The Tech2 is big and bulky but you don't need anything else to use it.
The Tech2 can be used as a J2534 passthrough if you have a laptop with a real RS232 DB9 serial port. I've used mine to flash several modules now with an Expresscard Quatech RS232 port. You can probably do the same with a decent quality Cardbus/PCMCIA RS232 card but I wouldn't try it with a USB to RS232 adapter.
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