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Rebuilding End Links...

7K views 42 replies 6 participants last post by  MrBuick (Magnum) 
#1 ·
I am rebuilding the End Links on my 94 9C1 this week. My Haynes manual says to pay close attention to the order of the bushings and washers on the origionals, before removing them. Problem; Mine have NO bushings to pay close attention to (thus the need for rebuild). Can someone tell me the proper order?

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
It's easier than you think. Washers on the outsides, bushings go with the little lips facing inward. Tighten till the bushings contact the bar on both toP and bottom.
 
#3 ·
It is easier than you think, but still people manage to screw it up. I bought a 96 Civi that rattled up front, and handled like crap. We were 5 miles into the trip home, when I decided to stop in the K-Mart parking lot, and replace both sides. Lucky for me, my friend just happened to have his saw zaw in his truck, and his power inverter was hooked up. All we needed was an extension cord. :D

The nipple/ pointed end of the bushings point to the bar, and the control arm. The washers are on the outside of them, and will contact either a bolt head/ nut, or a spacer sleeve.




Black is the Bolt/ Nut & Metal sleeve
Silver is the Control Arm or Sway Bar
Red is the Bushings
Blue is the Washers.
 
#4 ·
Sure if you wanna show him fancy pictures...
 
#6 ·
Wouldn't hurt to have the alignment rechecked afterwards too.
 
#7 ·
Eventually. My tires are toast and I am planning on re building the entire front end, as $$ permits. I'll do the alignment after. I know I need it, but I just cant justify it when I have so much more work ahead.
 
#9 ·
Dumbass. Raise the whole front end, he could have lost a finger or two there. The other thing that got me was the sawzall I saw on the ground, then he uses a freaking dremel?
 
#10 ·
They have a dewalt sawzaw, yet can't afford a $20 set of jack stands. Awesome.
 
#12 ·
Isn't it nice to hit a bump and not have the car dart off to one side?
 
#13 ·
OMG... I had no idea how well this car could actually handle. I was taking 30 mph turns at around 60 mph last night (would have tried faster, but my 2 y/o son was in the back seat. He was saying "YAY" and clapping around every turn. I am teaching him while he is young :eek:k3:).
 
#14 ·
Just remember to keep the countersteer light and don't abruptly back off the throttle, you'll be fine...
 
#16 ·
Alright so I guess I have gotten used to the ride, 'cause it feel s loose again. Not as bad as it did before the End Links and Sway Bar bushings, but it is loose. I am noticing it more now that I get to drive on REAL twisties everyday. What do I look at next? Here are the current symptoms:

When driving on level ground, my steering wheel is dead center and there seems to be some play when I initiate a turn either way. When on a road that has a crest that leans to the right, I have to keep pressure/favor to the left to keep my car from going off the road. If the crest leans to the left, then I have to keep pressure/favor to the right. Once I am in the turn everything seems to be alright.

I know the bushings in the front are all pretty worn. Is there anything else I need to look at, or should I just plan on a complete rebuild of the front end?
 
#17 ·
Check the tie rods, center link for any looseness. Also check the steering shaft from the gear box to the steering shaft from the floor of the car where the coupler is. I have found many that have looseness there. Especially if it is the slip shaft style. Holding pressure on the crests of the road is not uncommon.
 
#18 ·
Cool Thanks. I know Holding pressure on the crest of a road is expected, but it seems excessive in the my Caprice. I'll check this stuff out. Thanks!
 
#19 ·
Is there a lot of play in the steering? May want to tighten up the steering gear as well, it's the one on top of the gear box with the stop nut. Made a big difference for me when I tightened mine, idler arm is still worn though so it still has a slight wander.
 
#20 ·
I will try this. There seems to be a lot of play to me. I have had cars from this generation before and they never felt this loose. Thanks for the tip.
 
#21 ·
Also never hurts to start grabbing and wiggling all the steering components, tie-rods and idler arm in particular are prone to wear. Also might want to check wheel bearings, do you know when they were last serviced or replaced?
 
#22 ·
just a quick question. A couple times, about 2 weeks ago I noticed a small puddle of PS fluid under the drag link. It's stopped and I haven't seen it since or ever before then. Would that just be me cranking the wheel too far? Because I haven't seen it since those couple times.
 
#23 ·
No it is not from turning to the steering stops. Either it splashed out, over filled, or might not even been from your car. Just keep an eye on the fluid level and if possible look over the pump and steering lines for any signs of leakage areas.
 
#24 ·
It was from my car, it happened in our driveway. Yeah, it could have splashed out, but it was dripping from the ps side drag link. I did have to replace a line back in Feb after the crash. But I didn't see any fluid on the PS pump. I"ll do that again though.
 
#27 ·
The other day I pulled into the gas station and I had steam coming from under the hood and a coolant smell, found the heater control valve leaking. But it hasn't done it since, sometimes cars get a wild hair and do some weird shit.
 
#28 ·
Tell me about it! My CEL came on a couple days after emissions in late august. The EGR valve was blocked. I ignored it and about 2 weeks ago it went away. I guess it somehow unblocked itself. just so long as it's gone.
 
#31 ·
Well the bearings aren't the issue then, but you still may want to at least repack them sometime soon for peace of mind.
 
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