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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just repaired it on my 2010 LT and I want to thank everyone who posted instructions and pictures. I was exactly what all of you advised. A burnt out connector caused by bad design. I fixed it and it's working fine except for one glitch. The check engine light came on and hasn't reset. I think it came on after I pulled the 40 amp fuse to check the voltage and continuity. Everything works fine except for the light. Can anyone tell me how to reset it?

I've read that the dealer would have charged me at least $300.00 for this repair that cost me $2.00 So Really Thanks Again!
 

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I just repaired it on my 2010 LT and I want to thank everyone who posted instructions and pictures. I was exactly what all of you advised. A burnt out connector caused by bad design. I fixed it and it's working fine except for one glitch. The check engine light came on and hasn't reset. I think it came on after I pulled the 40 amp fuse to check the voltage and continuity. Everything works fine except for the light. Can anyone tell me how to reset it?

I've read that the dealer would have charged me at least $300.00 for this repair that cost me $2.00 So Really Thanks Again!
Strange about the CEL... You can either reset it yourself with a scan tool - or, since it sounds like you don't have one, take it to autozone and see if they'll reset it for you (I know they check codes for free, but not sure if they'll reset them for you or not - might be against company policy or something to actually reset them).

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I didn't think that a quick battery disconnect would reset the CEL, but I could be wrong. Maybe if you leave the battery disconnected overnight or disconnect both battery leads and touch them together for a few minutes to drain all power from the system? I'm really not 100% sure since it's been so long since a had a CEL... For some reason, I thought that the CEL was "remembered" with a quick battery disconnect. But like I said, I could be wrong about that.

Anyone else know for sure? I guess he could always try it - can't hurt! :)

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This says to disconnect the battery, then lay on the horn until it dies.

"If you decide to disconnect the battery I have an important tip for you. Most vehicles from 1996 and newer have a keep alive memory built-in to the computer system.

Disconnecting the battery alone will not reset the check engine light. The computer will be able to hold the memory and the code for several minutes and in some cases several hours.

They supply battery voltage through a capacitor keeping the internal memory alive. The way around this is to disconnect the battery and then hold down on the horn button for at least 30 seconds. The horn circuit is one of only a few that's hot at all times, regardless of key position.

This is why you can blow the horn without having the ignition turned on. Holding down on the horn button drains the electrical current stored in the control module.

Using the horn circuit resets the check engine light and all memory related functions on most models.

Remember, when you do this you'll be erasing all memory learned by the computer on previous drive cycles along with radio stations, clocks, seat memory and collected driver information center data like average fuel economy.

Therefore, when you reconnect the battery and confirm the reset procedure, you'll find the engine idle erratic for several drive cycles. The transmission shifts can also feel different from the last time you drove it. This is because the shift point data is gone along with the check engine light code."



See how to Reset Check Engine Lights Without a Scanner
 

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I'm having this same issue with my 06 the rear defoster dont work but i cants find any posts on how to fix it. all i find is Fixed posts.
VERY common issue on these cars. Read this thread for instructions on how to check and fix:

[ame]http://www.impalaforums.com/showthread.php?t=251292[/ame]

Read the entire thread. The OP mistakenly says to add a fuse as well, but you don't want to do that (it's already fused). But otherwise, the fix in the OP is correct. Very easy and inexpensive to fix.

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Thanks for the information. I think I'll take a drive over to autozone and if that doesn't work out I'll do the disconnect and horn route
Auto Zone typically wont reset a code. Our store recently went to a new code reader that actually eliminated the possibility of clearing a code, even if we wanted to. It is stupid because clearing a code is a good way to diagnose an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the heads up. Believe it or not it reset itself about a week ago and everything is running fine. That's too bad about autozone I've been dealing with them for many years but guess they have too many customers and want to shed a few O'Riley is right up the street and their prices are in line with autozone. I'll check with them the next time I need parts.
 

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The problem is that the cheap metal tabs in the connector housing, can't handle the current needed for the defroster. I cut and clamped my wires together and it has worked perfectly ever since. :)
 

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The problem is that the cheap metal tabs in the connector housing, can't handle the current needed for the defroster.
The frustrating thing to me is that these connectors all get qualified in engineering before they get added to the qualified parts list. So how do we still end up with an inadequate connector?

There are several ways that they can slip thru. It could be an inferior part being shipped by the connector maker. That implies the parts he furnished for qualification were "gold plated" and not typical production parts. Or it could be something that slipped thru the production testing at the connector makers. It happens, unfortunately. We call them "test escapes".

Or it could indicate that the qualification testing was inadequate. Some times stuff does slip thru. But these things usually get corrected after repair feedback indicates there's a problem, but that's after you had to deal with it.

Or it could be that the parts buyer went off the list and ordered an unqualified part to be used. That happens, too, usually when the qualified suppliers don't have short enough lead times. (But I don't expect to see that at a major manufacturer)

Anyway, knowing how guys at the factory can put their hearts and souls into making a good product and then have stuff like this come up, I'm sure the engineers at GM get frustrated by it, too.

Doug

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According to the 2009 W-Body Impala service manual pages 11-349 to 11-351 the offending Body Harness to I/P connector # X200 is a Mix of Metripack 150 & Metripack 280. Metripack 280 terminals 15304711 & 15304722 are what's used in Cavities D3-D6 and A3-A6.
The woefully under-sized Metripack 280 terminals in Socket D6 can carry... Drum roll please... a MAXIMUM of 30A. Not sure how this slipped through review but it did.

The female grid connectors are Metripack 630 series which are rated at 46 amps... Shell 12167133 Terminal 12034110.

You could install a three cavity Metripack 630 connector on these 3mm² (12AWG) wires.
Someone dropped the ball here and GM didn't make any changes because it's not burning down cars.
There are no stories of the grid connectors overheating so the Metripack 630 family should carry the current just fine.
Unfortunately the 630 series are not available in single cavity connectors. I'd use the smallest cavity count 630 connector available which happens to be three.
Male housing 12124686
Male 3mm terminal 12064737
Female Housing 12124685
Female 3mm terminal 12052456
Strain Relief 12045699 (need two)
Seal 12052668
Cavity plugs 12059255 (need two)



BTW: NEW replacements for badly charred hybrid Metripack 150/280 X200 body connectors can be had fairly easily. Obnoxious to swap but available.
The following part number information is from the 2009 GM Factory Service manual Pages 11-349 to 11-351.
Mouser Electronics stocks them so I linked both shells. You can re-use any strain relief and connector locks on the new shells.
15448130 & 15475870
You'll need Metripack extractors. I like the SIR Tools 9025 & 9024
The $10 Delphi Electronics Metripack 150/280 terminal extractor is well worth buying even if you only use it on this job. It's a Mouser stock Item as well https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12094429
 

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What's really sad is that this problem started in 2006 Impalas and still affects the new 8th gen Impalas, and a recall or a tsb was never issued.
 

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According to the 2009 W-Body Impala service manual pages 11-349 to 11-351 the offending Body Harness to I/P connector # X200 is a Mix of Metripack 150 & Metripack 280. Metripack 280 terminals 15304711 & 15304722 are what's used in Cavities D3-D6 and A3-A6.
The woefully under-sized Metripack 280 terminals in Socket D6 can carry... Drum roll please... a MAXIMUM of 30A. Not sure how this slipped through review but it did.

The female grid connectors are Metripack 630 series which are rated at 46 amps... Shell 12167133 Terminal 12034110.

You could install a three cavity Metripack 630 connector on these 3mm² (12AWG) wires.
Someone dropped the ball here and GM didn't make any changes because it's not burning down cars.
There are no stories of the grid connectors overheating so the Metripack 630 family should carry the current just fine.
Unfortunately the 630 series are not available in single cavity connectors. I'd use the smallest cavity count 630 connector available which happens to be three.
Male housing 12124686
Male 3mm terminal 12064737
Female Housing 12124685
Female 3mm terminal 12052456
Strain Relief 12045699 (need two)
Seal 12052668
Cavity plugs 12059255 (need two)



BTW: NEW replacements for badly charred hybrid Metripack 150/280 X200 body connectors can be had fairly easily. Obnoxious to swap but available.
The following part number information is from the 2009 GM Factory Service manual Pages 11-349 to 11-351.
Mouser Electronics stocks them so I linked both shells. You can re-use any strain relief and connector locks on the new shells.
15448130 & 15475870
You'll need Metripack extractors. I like the SIR Tools 9025 & 9024
The $10 Delphi Electronics Metripack 150/280 terminal extractor is well worth buying even if you only use it on this job. It's a Mouser stock Item as well https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delphi-Connection-Systems/12094429
Great write-up! Many kudos to you !

Doug

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What's really sad is that this problem started in 2006 Impalas and still affects the new 8th gen Impalas, and a recall or a tsb was never issued.
A TSB means they are acknowledging the fact that it's a known defect. Then the public will ask questions like.... "How did you allow continued production of those harnesses with this known defect after mm/dd/yyyy publication of the TSB?"
Two answers.
A stock of harnesses that were produced using the defective prints exists. If Corporate releases a TSB these will need to be replaced or re-worked at GM cost as the supplier produced them according to the prints provided.
A TSB also requires GM corporate to pay dealership service hours and parts when a vehicle is serviced by a dealer while still under warranty.

Read the carefully worded 4T65E transmission pan magnet TSB. Then cogitate on why they chose to tell dealership service departments to only replace the low temp magnets when the pan is dropped for other service and not do it when the car comes in for scheduled maintenance or other warranty service.


I'm going to :protest:rant:protest: a bit so you can ignore me or be extremely offended. :devil

:protest:The above obnoxious sleazy activity is proof that Lawyers and Bean Counters are running the show at GM. As a demographic, group Lawyers and Bean Counters, are some of the most a-moral individuals available... they far outstrip sleazy sales people... Legislatures in most countries are made up primarily of that demographic group. Look at the a-moral manner that they behave in public office and ask yourself if there's any reason they would behave differently in private business.
 
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A TSB means they are acknowledging the fact that it's a known defect. Then the public will ask questions like.... "How did you allow continued production of those harnesses with this known defect after mm/dd/yyyy publication of the TSB?"
Two answers.
A stock of harnesses that were produced using the defective prints exists. If Corporate releases a TSB these will need to be replaced or re-worked at GM cost as the supplier produced them according to the prints provided.
A TSB also requires GM corporate to pay dealership service hours and parts when a vehicle is serviced by a dealer while still under warranty.

Read the carefully worded 4T65E transmission pan magnet TSB. Then cogitate on why they chose to tell dealership service departments to only replace the low temp magnets when the pan is dropped for other service and not do it when the car comes in for scheduled maintenance or other warranty service.


I'm going to :protest:rant:protest: a bit so you can ignore me or be extremely offended. :devil

:protest:The above obnoxious sleazy activity is proof that Lawyers and Bean Counters are running the show at GM. As a demographic, group Lawyers and Bean Counters, are some of the most a-moral individuals available... they far outstrip sleazy sales people... Legislatures in most countries are made up primarily of that demographic group. Look at the a-moral manner that they behave in public office and ask yourself if there's any reason they would behave differently in private business.
I totally agree with this assessment. If it weren't true, this problem with the wire harness pin for the wiring to the back window would have been addressed YEARS ago.


It's a shame because as long as this isn't getting fixed by GM, I'm no longer considering any GM vehicles for the future when my 2006 Impala finally craps out for good. This issue is total BS since THEY HAVE KNOWN ABOUT IT FOR YEARS!
 

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Toyota, Chrysler, Ford, Nissan, Subaru/Fuji-Heavy-Industries, ... You won't get away from it. They're all run by lawyers and bean counters and they all play this game.
 
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