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had the same problem, they repaired it at the dealer today, but they just fixed it the way it was so its setup for failure again,of course i found this when i got home and wanted to see how common a problem it is. also had to have the ac delco battery replaced for the 3rd time since i bought the car(08 LTZ) anyone else have a problem with the battery. they just keep changing them out with no question or charge which says they know they're crap
 

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thanx for the pics,,,,great job,,,,diddo for my 07,,,,,but,,,,,i did not use the inline fuse,just 12 guage wire,,there is a 40a fuse(batt3)under the hood beside the relay for rear defroster, after consulting other gm people, they all said it was good,,,, the inline is fine as well,,,,it's all GOOD,,except the wiring from GM.:lol::bang:
 

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The fuse holder is either inadequate (cheap or under sized) defrost circuits are always 30 amps in my experience. I have repaired 2 of these work successfully with 8" of 10 gauge wire and 2 yellow crimp and melt weather proof butt connectors. I have no over heating issues in these customers vehicles.

No edit button... I swapped the burned fuse holder, soldered connections, put in a 20 amp fuse this time and turned the defroster on. Monitoring the fuse holder with a temp gun, I watched it climb to 107f before shutting the defroster back off, there is obviously a larger issue.
 

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Well, if there is a fuse under the hood for it, I guess I can try just using wire instead of the fuse holder...
 

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After being without rear defrost for a month, I have finally fixed it thanks to this post. My circumstances surrounding the symptoms were a little different and actually had me stumped. My multimeter was actually showing 12.5v at the rear window. I had the volts, but none of the amps.

I went about my repair a little differently though, as I chose not to use an inline fuse at the location of the repair. By using a fuse you turn one set of terminals (factory connector) into 2 sets of terminals (inline fuse) which adds resistance back to the circuit. This resistance is what is causing many previous posters fuse holders to heat up. The fuse is not blowing since the fuse is designed to protect from a short circuit with amperage overload. They will not blow with the relatively small (comparitively speaking) amount of heat that some of you are seeing at the fuse holder. The downside to this is the fuse holder may ultimately melt as a result of this heat. I chose to bypass the connector with a short piece of 12g wire and soldered the connections. A little heat shink and I was all set. There is in fact a fuse under the hood for the rear defrost as was previously stated, so just bypassing the connector is adequate.

:eek:k3:
 

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Wow, of course it's a noob that comes in and explains it clearly... You make a very good point, thank you.
 

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I appreciate the Kudos!!:eek:k3: New to the site, but have been turning wrenches for years. I also helped design the electrical system used in the yachts where I work. Length of wire runs, amp draw, resistance, 3% voltage loss, 10% voltage loss, etc, etc. A little nerve racking, but satisfying when everything works as designed.

And if I may be so bold as to offer a reccomendation..... anyone who has a fuse holder installed in the repair location go ahead and remove it and just jumper the wires...... removes any chance of a future failure and removes the chance of a fire. The defrost will work faster/better as well. Just think of it as removing a "restriction" from the middle of a pipe.
 

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The sad thing is, I knew all that, it just didn't connect in my brain till you said it! I will be jumpering my old fix now.
 

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So far have had no issues with my 06 but after reading this "an ounce of prevention/pound of cure" comes to mind. The rear defrost gets lots of use here as does the remote start, and the rear defrost comes on with that ( if cold enough) ( I wish the heated seats would as well ). I did not know however that the rear defroster would not "time out" once you were at speed. Hmm I will have to watch for that,,,,,,, interesting.
As for the battery I had to replace it winter before last. SFSG with the new one. I load test it every oil change. I will remove the panel and connector and have a look later today.

Paul
 

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Opened it up and had a look
SFSG all is well.
Spread a bit of dielectric grease on the "female" portion of the plug and put it back. It is something that I will keep an eye on and will include it in the Spring and Fall inspection.
Great info to be aware of
Thanks

Paul
Side note
Those are pretty wimpy "spade connectors" to be carrying that kind of load. I would have expected something a bit heftier for that kind of service.
IMO that is

P
 

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Just a question here
I wonder if this problem is for the LS and LT models. ?
Only reason I ask is that the photos of the cars that have had the issue have a slightly different pin configuration within the plug. As an example, I have noted that there are only 3 large spade connectors on the ones that are shown burnt, yet on my plug there is an extra connector in there, a 4th one and that may be case of the SS ones as well.
Just a thought
I could not determine what models were shown as having a problem.

Perhaps I need to get my glasses replaced

Paul
Edit:
Never mind. JOHNKA16 ( page 3 ) has an 08 LTZ and his failed.
P
 

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I had the exact same issue in my '06! After buying the fuse and fuse holder I did a little bit more research and agree that the fuse is not necessary :oops:. So I ended up using it anyway because I needed the extra wire length to solder the two ends together. I left the defroster on for about 5 mins to check the heat at the fuse holder and it was never to hot to touch so I don't think I will have a problem. The total cost was about $3.50 at Wal-Mart. Wrapped everything back up and put it back under the panel and it works great! If it burns up again Ill be sure to let you guys know :eek:k3:
 

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so i came to this site a year ago where i found this fix. i did the blade fuse identical to the original poster. all was fine for the past year...until this morning...about 2 minutes from my house on the way to work, started seeing smoke. pulled over to find a smoldering mess in that panel and my fix had melted down. i'm afraid to hard wire them together as the latest posts have suggested because what if the next time it happens in a place not so accessible, like behind a panel or something? i'm going to the dealership this time around to see what they say.
 

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Well, at least I'm not alone. I do believe that solid wire will have less problems than a fuse, for many reasons. But I'm not gonna tell you to do it if you aren't comfortable with it.
 

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Well, at least I'm not alone. I do believe that solid wire will have less problems than a fuse, for many reasons. But I'm not gonna tell you to do it if you aren't comfortable with it.
at the time i fixed it myself last year i was still in a smartbuy but over the 3 year warranty. now i purchased at the balloon value and added an extended warranty so i'm going to try that route.
 
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