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Discussion Starter #21
glad to see this fix has worked for other people. to the poster who had the new fuse melt: sounds like something else is wrong with the element in the back. almost seems like a short, but it should definitely pop the fuse first! that's crazy. I had the car for about six months after the fix and it worked great the whole time, and it was heavily used during the winter. my brother in law has had 2 other impaled with the exact same problem. it's crazy that chevy hasn't actually addresses the issue.
 

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I checked the plug on my 06 impal and the same thing is wrong going to fix this today.Has anyone contact gm about this problem? Thanks for the posting and pic i been tring to find the problem for a year now
 

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follow up on fixing my rear defroster it is all fixed and the fuse got warm but did not get hot so the person who had a problem of get hot and catching on fire check your rear window connecters
thank you again on the pic and info
p.s. the wire colors on my 06 impala was purple on the front side and black on the back side
 

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follow up on the rear derfroster everyone needs to call gm to put in a claim so this will be a recall i called gm to today and spoke to a lady she said to have everyone call in to put in a claim so they get enough people to make it a recall... here is the number 1-866-790-5700 ex.41141 ask for Lekeia
please call... this is a fire hazard just think if your kids are in the car and it cought fire... if you fixed it your self please still call you could save a life


thank you
impala owner and a firefighter
 

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Hi,
I have a 2007 impala with the exact same issue. I just called and talked to Lekeia. Great lady and more than willing to help. Still not enough complaints to make a recall. Hopefully more people will actually call.

Thanks,
Mike
 

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Just wanted to thank the op for making this. Saved my parent's a little dough.

Very easy job, though I ran into a problem. I ended up going with a inline fuse holder I had laying in the garage simaliar to this but with a clear plastic housing. It was #12 wire with a 30a 32v agc style fuse



It ended up getting really hot and started to effect the housing in minutes. All connections were soldered. I checked the tabs on the rear window and they were intact. So I was a little pissed and decided to get a different type of fuse holder.

Simaliar to this. It was a 30a 32v buss inline holder.



So far so good. Ran it for the 10minutes till it automaticly turns off and all seems well. It gets a little warm but I can touch the fuse with my fingers w/o feeling any sensation of pain.

Thanks again guys.
 

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speaking of saving money, when I originally went to the dealer to see the cost of new wire harness plus installation dude told be it be around $300, I'd say we saved some dough.
 

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Thank you

I just wanted to come on here to thank the OP for taking the time to post the pictures and instructions, this was spot on to fix my car
 

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I just wanted to come on here to thank the OP for taking the time to post the pictures and instructions, this was spot on to fix my car
I'm wondering if this is the same issue I'm having with our '05. While under warranty, it went out and they "fixed the wiring", replaced the relay, replaced the circuit breaker. Well it's out of warranty and it's out again. I've already replaced the relay and it still doesn't work. Haven't had the time to get into it any further, so now I'm trying to "research" the problem.

:dunno:
 

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if its not a fuse, burnt relay in our location (fix with a fused bypass), then it may be in another harness location, not sure but this will help bump. I was told by a dealer who also told me about this fix, that this could potentially set car on fire but cant vouch for that.
 

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I have an 08 Impala which has this same issue and fixed it in nearly the same way. I am not sure why a fuse is needed here. Fuses are not best at thermally protecting a circuit against heat. Plus the circuit is already protected against drawing to many amps in the fuse panel.

Keep in mind that during this process I never used crimps, always solder and heat shrink to connect the wires.

First time I fixed this I used an inline fuse holder with a 30 Amp fuse and 12 gauge wire. The contacts on the wire going to the fuse were the culprit and were getting hot. The fuse holder reached melting point and fuse still had not blown.

Next I switched to a blade type fuse, this was much better. The blades of the fuse were slightly warm but not hot to the touch.

Finally I switch to connecting the wire without a fuse all together. This resulted in zero heat in any of the wiring. To me this makes sense too. The factory wiring harness failed right at the at the point of the spade connector. This connector was unable to transfer the amount of amps needed to run the defrost. The spade contacts heat up and causes the plastic housing around the spade connector to melt and burn. Eventually the heat corrodes the metal contacts on the spade connector and current no longer passes to the rear defroster.

The wiring on both sides of the connector is heavy enough, the fuse in the fuse panel is big enough, the spades connectors failed. The proof is in the lack of hot wiring at the point where I soldered the wires together to bypass the factory connector.
 

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My parents just had this problem with their '08, it's a shame I didn't read this earlier. I guess I'll be doing this to my car at some point
 

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I had the EXACT same problem with mine. Of course it had to happen just as the temperature dropped to frost the windows overnight. I sent this page to my service guy at my dealership and although my '08 was already at almost 62,000 miles, they repaired it for free.
 

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I just wanted to come on here to thank the OP for taking the time to post the pictures and instructions, this was spot on to fix my car
Just wanted to say the same. Mine went out last winter, but managed without over the warmer months. Now that it's cold again, this became annoying and took a few minutes to give this a look. Sure enough, the connector looks identical to the one in the original post. Heading out to pick up the fuse holder... THANKS!
 

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I concur with Shadex in thanking the OP for the excellent writeup and pics. My rear defroster stopped working last week on my 2007 and thanks to the posting, I had it fixed in 15 minutes.
 

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Question

Does anybody know what other connections are being made through this wiring harness? About 9 months ago, I was driving when I heard a pop sound from this area, and smelled the burning wire. Since then, I have had the following problems with my car:

Constant
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1. Stereo Aux connector does not work unless my device (ie cellphone) is also plugged into a cigarette lighter adapter. I assume that this is due to a bad ground.

2. A/C actuators will make a knocking sound for about 2 minutes when changing air ciculation.

Sporadic
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1. Stereo will sometimes not shut off when opening the door after shutting off the engine.

2. Sporadic "Tighten Gas Cap" error.

3. Temp guage will drop to 0 and "Enginge Hot Turn A/C Off" error will display. This will clear out when I turn the engine off then back on again, and has only happened 4 or 5 times in the last year.

4. Tail light fuse will blow occasionally.

About two months ago, I was messing around with the wires around the wiring harness, and all of the problems that I listed above went away for about an hour. I assumed that I had an electrical short, which led me to look in the kick panel where I found the burnt wiring harness. Mine looks similar to the one shown above, but a little worse.
 

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As crispy as some of those connectors look I'd be sorely tempted to buy a new pair and move the wires except the defroster to the new ones.
 
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