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Anyone know if the left front impact sensor wiring for the the airbags runs thru this connector? B0085 - 5 Short to Voltage code and wondering where to start. Already replaced the left front impact sensor, swapped the left with right after the replacement didn't solve the issue after I'd had the dealer diaghnose the code originally. Went back and told them apparently they don't know how to diagnose and was glad I didn't have them fix it otherwise I probably would've got hosed over.
 

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Did you turn the car on with the harness unplugged? That will throw a code until it is cleared, ask me how I know because I did it haha.


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Me too. Listened to the radio when I had the 2 harnesses unplugged. Threw 3 codes afterwards. P0449, P0452, & P0463. :icon_redface: I also tried to turn the ignition off when the harnesses were off. It wouldn't turn back to the off position so I couldn't remove the key. Scared the heck out of me. Ignition worked fine after I plugged the harnesses back in. I then reset the codes. Fingers crossed.

I do have a question though. Before doing the fix, I had no power the the rear windshield defroster contacts. After the fix, I get power to the passenger side contact but not the drivers side contact. Is that normal? It is too warm today to check the defroster properly. Its the main reason it got fixed today!

Thanks. Props to the OP for the great write up and others for their helpful contributions.

BTW - Burned up connector like everyone else. 2013 Impala LT. I just butt spliced the purple and black wire using some extra 14 gauge wire I had laying around. I did not use a fuse. (Yes, I read all 19 pages of this thread) :D
 

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Power at only one side of the grid means the grid has a break.

I know you can buy a paint made for reconnecting the grid, although I have not done this.

I believe it works like a bottle of fingernail polish, and you clean the area and paint line between areas around the break, the paint being electrically conductive.

Having a multimeter tester for checking for resistance/continuity is a big help in finding the problem(s) and then verifying your fix(s).

There are several vids on YouTube.

https://youtu.be/u_v942ySQHA
 

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Power at only one side of the grid means the grid has a break.

I know you can buy a paint made for reconnecting the grid, although I have not done this.

I believe it works like a bottle of fingernail polish, and you clean the area and paint line between areas around the break, the paint being electrically conductive.

Having a multimeter tester for checking for resistance/continuity is a big help in finding the problem(s) and then verifying your fix(s).

There are several vids on YouTube.

https://youtu.be/u_v942ySQHA
Thanks Carbide. I checked the continuity from the rear passenger side grid connector to the rear driver side grid connector and also several spots throughout the grid. Everything checked out good. I think I wasn't testing the power output correctly. Before, I connected the black ground wire of my multitester to a vehicle ground near the inside of the door then touched the red wire of the tester to each of the grid connectors, one at a time. This was with the rear defroster turned on. When I touched the passenger side connector, I got a little over 10 volts. When I touched the driver side connector, I got nothing.
Your post made me go out to the car and try the continuity test. Once I determined that the grid was good, I used the multimeter again. This time I touched the red wire to the passenger side connector and the black wire to the driver side connector and got over 13 volts. I think everything is working as it should. I'll know for sure when it gets colder. Thanks again for your help.
 

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Try resizing your pictures with photo editing software or using a picture hosting site.
 

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Seven years later and this post helped me. I have a 2012 Impala LTZ and the rear defrost stopped working right as it got cold. Looked online and saw this thread and sure enough that was the problem. Very easy 5 minute fix. Takes more time to get to the problem then to fix it. Thank you for the help!
 

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That's awesome - this post is the gift that keeps on giving! :) Hard to believe that GM didn't issue a safety recall for this one though...

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What causes the original harness to overheat and melt. What controls the length of time that the defroster stays on? Is there a built-in timer in the dash control knob, and if so, how long does it stay on? Thanks
 

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Sorry to dig up an old thread and a different issue, didn't read the whole thread, but someone asked about the rear defrost never turning off unless done by pushing the button. All of my other cars it would shut off after 10 - 15 minutes. In my new to me 13 the rear defroster never turns off unless I do it.

Is this how it is designed or is it supposed to?

Thanks

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Sorry to dig up an old thread and a different issue, didn't read the whole thread, but someone asked about the rear defrost never turning off unless done by pushing the button. All of my other cars it would shut off after 10 - 15 minutes. In my new to me 13 the rear defroster never turns off unless I do it.

Is this how it is designed or is it supposed to?

Thanks

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The information regarding the rear defroster shut off should be contained in your vehicle owner’s manual.

I’ve owned a 2008, 2011 & 2012 Impala LTZ, and now a 2014 Impala 2LTZ. The rear defroster shut-off after a preset amount of time.
 

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The information regarding the rear defroster shut off should be contained in your vehicle owner’s manual.



I’ve owned a 2008, 2011 & 2012 Impala LTZ, and now a 2014 Impala 2LTZ. The rear defroster shut-off after a preset amount of time.
Hum. Mine doesn't. Will have to dig more I guess. Thanks.

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And what would climate control have to do with rear defroster?

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That's where the control switch is. Why would they bother with routing that switch wiring to some other controller location or placing the defroster in some other location in the owner manual?
Most of these cars are essentially networked industrial controllers using GM CAN buss protocols. Not de-centralized networked CAN buss controllers like the German rigs I've worked on but GM appears to be getting there slowly.
I assume the HVAC controller talks to the BCM over the CAN buss and the BCM handles switching the grid on and off.
It cuts down on the individual wires needed. The transit coaches I work on had wiring harnesses about 5" in diameter in the 1980's. The far more complex coaches of today have harnesses that are less than 2" in diameter and they are more reliable and have a lot more functionality.
 

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Maybe I should start a new thread but thought someone might be able to link me an existing one. Must not be a common issue.

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