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Anyone have experience using Purolator Premium Plus L series oil filters? Advance auto parts is running a special for 5 qts of QS Conventional and Purolator filter for 14.99.
 

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Anyone have experience using Purolator Premium Plus L series oil filters? Advance auto parts is running a special for 5 qts of QS Conventional and Purolator filter for 14.99.
Yeah, if you love your car, DON'T DO IT!

Quaker Crud and Purolator suck. Unless you truly don't have the $, but better than not changing it at all.

I've been using 4 Qts. Pennzoil & 1 Qt. Rislone along with Bosch filters. My engine is still nice and clean and sparkly inside! but that's just my 2 cents.

I'm sure lots of people here will tell me I'm full of crap, but that's just my opinion!
 

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Guys......no matter what you use, if you change it on a regular basis it does not make that much a diff. Those that like to say diff usually buy into the hype and pay for the names of products that cost alot more and look like eye candy and claim to be super oil products.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So you dont believe there is a difference between synthetic and Conventional?

I personally never cared... Ive never had a car that I had to car about so Im new to this whole "caring" game. I like to take in as many opinions as possible and form my own decision.

But you would never catch me spending more that $25 for oil and filter, no matter what the protection advantage. My boss on the other hand spends $40 to change his oil, per car... X10 cars.... THATS excessive.
 

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I have tried most oils, bought into all the hype. If you change your oil regularly it makes little diff. The main diff comes from the weight you choose. Out here its no so cold so I can run a heavier weight oil, boost oil pressure and not worry.
 

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Yeah, if you love your car, DON'T DO IT!

Quaker Crud and Purolator suck. Unless you truly don't have the $, but better.

I've been using 4 Qts. Pennzoil & 1 Qt. Rislone along with Bosch filters. My engine is still nice and clean and sparkly inside! but that's just my 2 cents.

I'm sure lots of people here will tell me I'm full of crap, but that's just my opinion!
It is just your opinion and you are FUll of shit. Where should I start. Rislone had it's place in the day, and isn't as bad as Lucas Oil Stabilizer, but it really DOES NOTHING. Find VOAs of it, and you'll find it's nothing special. Bosch and Purolator filters were and or are made by Champion Labs. They are GOOD filters.


IN reality today's API SM oils whether conventional or synthetic will get the job done just fine in an average car (assuming not a high performance high heat applicatin) for average 3-5K OCIs without issue. Even the dreaded Fram filters can last that long. When you start to car about Extended Drains, Max protection, and better wear numbers, then it can be beneficial to research (www.bobistheoilguy.com) UOAs from similiar motors to find the oil that could perform (need UOAs yourself to concur presented data) the best in your motor.

Otherwise you're like 90% of the people who just form an opinion on motor oils and filters, with no factual data to back it up.
BTW your engine may be sparkly and clean on the topside, but what about in the lifter valley (if applicable) or in the oil pan. Unless you drive a lot of sort trips in cold temps, or have a known sludge engines, most engines will always "LOOK" clean if you pull the valve covers off.


After some research, I'm using Mobil Clean 5000 10w30 (conventional) oil in the wife's 01 cavalier. I can safely go 6K on it with her now 95% city driving habits. I change her oil twice a year at a cost when it's on sale $10-12 with 5 quarts (4 quart sump) and a Filter (typically Delco or STP). My UOAs were better than someone runing the same car/engine combo with similiar driving habits/climate with Mobil 1 with a shorter OCI (and overall less engine miles). I may try some other brand some day and track UOAs, but for $12 and very good UOAs, I see no need to spend more on synthetic.
 

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It is just your opinion and you are FUll of shit. Where should I start. Rislone had it's place in the day, and isn't as bad as Lucas Oil Stabilizer, but it really DOES NOTHING. Find VOAs of it, and you'll find it's nothing special. Bosch and Purolator filters were and or are made by Champion Labs. They are GOOD filters.


IN reality today's API SM oils whether conventional or synthetic will get the job done just fine in an average car (assuming not a high performance high heat applicatin) for average 3-5K OCIs without issue. Even the dreaded Fram filters can last that long. When you start to car about Extended Drains, Max protection, and better wear numbers, then it can be beneficial to research (www.bobistheoilguy.com) UOAs from similiar motors to find the oil that could perform (need UOAs yourself to concur presented data) the best in your motor.

Otherwise you're like 90% of the people who just form an opinion on motor oils and filters, with no factual data to back it up.
BTW your engine may be sparkly and clean on the topside, but what about in the lifter valley (if applicable) or in the oil pan. Unless you drive a lot of sort trips in cold temps, or have a known sludge engines, most engines will always "LOOK" clean if you pull the valve covers off.


After some research, I'm using Mobil Clean 5000 10w30 (conventional) oil in the wife's 01 cavalier. I can safely go 6K on it with her now 95% city driving habits. I change her oil twice a year at a cost when it's on sale $10-12 with 5 quarts (4 quart sump) and a Filter (typically Delco or STP). My UOAs were better than someone runing the same car/engine combo with similiar driving habits/climate with Mobil 1 with a shorter OCI (and overall less engine miles). I may try some other brand some day and track UOAs, but for $12 and very good UOAs, I see no need to spend more on synthetic.
Well, when I got my '91 Caprice 6 years ago (had maybe 24k miles on it) under the valve covers was all sorts of nasty looking with lots of sludge and particles. Orig. owner had used Quaker Crud. I used Valvoline when I was a kid and had the same issues. Now that I use Pennzoil and Rislone, that problem no longer occurs. Trial and error had taught me a lesson.

Fram and Delco filters all feel cheap to me. The Bosch feels good and solid in my hand. If a filter feels like an empty beer can, it doesn't belong in my car.

And thank you for not sparing my feelings and flat out telling me that I'm full of shit. I don't claim to be the expert that you apparently are, but I do learn from my mistakes. I've made plenty and I'll make more, but I'm learning. So bite me.

So no, I'm not part of the 90% who just form dataless opinions. I formed my opinion over years of using different products. I have history and knowledge to look back upon. The opinions of men much older and wiser than I help as well.

So I thank you for your opinion as well as everyone else's.
 

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Well, when I got my '91 Caprice 6 years ago (had maybe 24k miles on it) under the valve covers was all sorts of nasty looking with lots of sludge and particles. Orig. owner had used Quaker Crud. I used Valvoline when I was a kid and had the same issues. Now that I use Pennzoil and Rislone, that problem no longer occurs. Trial and error had taught me a lesson.

Fram and Delco filters all feel cheap to me. The Bosch feels good and solid in my hand. If a filter feels like an empty beer can, it doesn't belong in my car.

And thank you for not sparing my feelings and flat out telling me that I'm full of shit. I don't claim to be the expert that you apparently are, but I do learn from my mistakes. I've made plenty and I'll make more, but I'm learning. So bite me.

So no, I'm not part of the 90% who just form dataless opinions. I formed my opinion over years of using different products. I have history and knowledge to look back upon. The opinions of men much older and wiser than I help as well.

So I thank you for your opinion as well as everyone else's.
I wasn't trying to hurt your feelings just messing around by being a little blunt. trust me, Oils today are way better than oils of yesteryear. The bosch just may have a slightly thicker canister wall. They are built by the same (or at least some models) company and are both good filters.

Again making an oil recommendation or filter one based on "what you see", or "my oil wasn't brown at all after 3K" is dataless opinions.
 

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Oil/Filters

I have always changed my oil at 3K intervals and have used many different Oil filters Brands and Oils throught out the years and all my engine's were always clean on the inside. Now I have only been driving for 34 years and thats a lot of Oil/Filter changes. But I'm old school, I'm what they use to call shade tree Mechanic. When you had to really trouble shoot to see what was wrong with your car ( First car 1966 JetStar 88:biggrin: ) without alway having the right tools to boot. Not these code guys that out there now. So guy's it doesn't always have to be in print to be true. Some old schools guys out here have learned a few things about cars thru the years. If you listen/read you might learn a thing or two. One last note I truely believe in keeping My engine clean on the outside also, One for less heat by the engine and also I don't get dirty working on it too:wink:.
 

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Thanks... I ended up going with QS Horsepower and Mobile one filter for 24.99

Manoogia86,

You made a wise choice in your oil set-up. I've tried QS Horsepower and found it to be an excellent synthetic oil. The filter too is a good one too. I usually stick to OEM versions and use the synthetic oil of my choosing.

Durango
 

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There's few products that have as much hype as oil.

I think it's like toothpaste or floss - no one ever got cavities because they used the wrong brand, but they did for not using it frequently enough.

3,000 mi if it's a special car
5,000 mi is right in the middle and what I do on mine
7,000 mi is late

One time I used synthetic oil (Castrol) on an exercise bike chain.
We had an unusual rain and the bike got rained on some.
The next day you would have thought they'd brought that chain up from the Titanic - it was as rusted as it would be if you left it in salt water for a decade - frozen solid and had to be thrown away.

Unbelievable, and it turned me off of synthetic oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I will remember that the next time I need to oil my bicycle chain...


My engine though? I think I will stick with it for now, only because its coming in cheap enough... Itd only be $10 cheaper to get conventional. Ill start weaning her off eventually.
 

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So Matt, you begining to realize MOST people are just too STUPID to be helped. There enough examples of that in this thread for you?

Far as 3K mile oil changes, what an antiquaited notion. If that was appropriate 30+ years ago with comparatively crappy oils being diluted with fuel by crappy carburators it only takes the slightest hit of a brain to figure out longer is just fine with todays better oils and VASTLY superior engine controls. Modern fuel injection keeps a LOT of fuel and carbon out of oil that used to endup there even with TBI injection.

As with so many other things most of you make ZERO effort to UNDERSTAND anything, you just do what a commercial told you too.

Retarded sheeple that put this country in the mess we have now.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I wish I had your ingenuity... sure some dont know as much about cars as you, my lord... but I certainly would not refer to that group as "stupid retards."

Come talk to me about the S+P, IRA's and 401Ks and then and we will see how fuckin smart you are. There are all different types of smart out there my friend, and quite frankly, 'oil smarts' aren't on the top of my priority list.

I do however ALWAYS appreciate your threads... but I personally would appreciate some refrain on the personal bashing.

Thanks Dwayne
 
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