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Just got my 2014 Chevy Impala LS 2.5L out of the shop yet AGAIN, for this same fault error. I changed my oil (it was about due, anyway), my spark plugs, and BOTH the INTAKE and EXHAUST assemblies, not more that 10 minutes that I got my car out of the shop the light is back on again. My mechanics never use anything but OE Spec AC Delco parts. (On a side note: For some strange reason both Rocker Arm Actuators were VERY hard to get...IDK why.) He assures me that it is safe to do my job (I am disabled and this is how I get my income.) as a rideshare driver and that it will not stall, but I really really, really like to solve this dilemma.

I do not want to keep exchanging parts if there is no warrant to do so. Anybody run across this issue beside myself? Short of taking it to an actual GM dealer, which will cost me more money, my mechanic shops that I use are all ASE certified and been in business for 20+ years. What can I try or do?

Thanks...

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Discussion Starter #2
Is there anyone that can help me with my dilemma, please? Thanks.

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I have not seen this issue yet on the 2.5L engines, but the 3.6L engines with variable cam lift has had issues with bad rocker arms and solenoids/valves in the valve covers.
What are the "INTAKE and EXHAUST assemblies"? Is it safe to assume that they are the intake and exhaust rocker arm actuators you mentioned later on in your post? If so those were one possibility. If I was going to gunshot a part without actually diagnosing the problem those probably would be the ones I'd do, plus a LOF with the correct viscosity Dexos full synthetic oil witch for the 2.5L engines is a 0w20 oil, (I know it sais 5w20 on the cap but 5w20 Dexos oil does not exist as GM discontinued that weight years ago).
The other issues that it could be are the air bleed valves in the valve cover could be leaking or worn, the rocker arms may have damaged or stuck locking pins. in either case the valve cover will need to be removed for further inspections.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have not seen this issue yet on the 2.5L engines, but the 3.6L engines with variable cam lift has had issues with bad rocker arms and solenoids/valves in the valve covers.
What are the "INTAKE and EXHAUST assemblies"? Is it safe to assume that they are the intake and exhaust rocker arm actuators you mentioned later on in your post? If so those were one possibility. If I was going to gunshot a part without actually diagnosing the problem those probably would be the ones I'd do, plus a LOF with the correct viscosity Dexos full synthetic oil witch for the 2.5L engines is a 0w20 oil, (I know it sais 5w20 on the cap but 5w20 Dexos oil does not exist as GM discontinued that weight years ago).
The other issues that it could be are the air bleed valves in the valve cover could be leaking or worn, the rocker arms may have damaged or stuck locking pins. in either case the valve cover will need to be removed for further inspections.
I have not seen this issue yet on the 2.5L engines, but the 3.6L engines with variable cam lift has had issues with bad rocker arms and solenoids/valves in the valve covers.
What are the "INTAKE and EXHAUST assemblies"? Is it safe to assume that they are the intake and exhaust rocker arm actuators you mentioned later on in your post? If so those were one possibility. If I was going to gunshot a part without actually diagnosing the problem those probably would be the ones I'd do, plus a LOF with the correct viscosity Dexos full synthetic oil witch for the 2.5L engines is a 0w20 oil, (I know it sais 5w20 on the cap but 5w20 Dexos oil does not exist as GM discontinued that weight years ago).
The other issues that it could be are the air bleed valves in the valve cover could be leaking or worn, the rocker arms may have damaged or stuck locking pins. in either case the valve cover will need to be removed for further inspections.
I have used Mobile 1's 5w-20 (75K plus)High Milage for ALL my oil changes since I bought the car used in 2016 with 40.6k on the engine.

Second, to answer your question, yes, both intake and exhaust. One of my mechanics (of 2 my family members used for quite a few years and will not snowball me :) ) replaced both with new (and he told me that a "version 1" of the actuator set had "issues" and that they remade/reconfigured them and now they sell a "version 2" which is better. I am not totally convinced that the intake actuator was not out-of-the-box "bad", But my experience with cars are almost non-existent. Reason: the Check Engine light was off the day it was replaced and a few hours there was no light and all seemed fine... but then it went back on...and STAYED on since. I am pondering whether or not the intake was faulty and the exhaust did not need replacing.

Damaged or stuck valves? Expensive to replace and diagnose?

Also, it was almost time anyway, according to the OLM and overdue for spark plugs (thanks to that other member that responded to my questions)..



By the way, excuse my ignorance, what does LOF mean, please? I do not utilize a lot of acronyms within responding to different forums.

I REALLY DO want to thank you guys for all your help. Really.

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I have used Mobile 1's 5w-20 (75K plus)High Milage for ALL my oil changes since I bought the car used in 2016 with 40.6k on the engine.

Second, to answer your question, yes, both intake and exhaust. One of my mechanics (of 2 my family members used for quite a few years and will not snowball me :) ) replaced both with new (and he told me that a "version 1" of the actuator set had "issues" and that they remade/reconfigured them and now they sell a "version 2" which is better. I am not totally convinced that the intake actuator was not out-of-the-box "bad", But my experience with cars are almost non-existent. Reason: the Check Engine light was off the day it was replaced and a few hours there was no light and all seemed fine... but then it went back on...and STAYED on since. I am pondering whether or not the intake was faulty and the exhaust did not need replacing.

Damaged or stuck valves? Expensive to replace and diagnose?

Also, it was almost time anyway, according to the OLM and overdue for spark plugs (thanks to that other member that responded to my questions)..



By the way, excuse my ignorance, what does LOF mean, please? I do not utilize a lot of acronyms within responding to different forums.

I REALLY DO want to thank you guys for all your help. Really.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
I have used Mobile 1's 5w-20 (75K plus)High Milage for ALL my oil changes since I bought the car used in 2016 with 40.6k on the engine.

Second, to answer your question, yes, both intake and exhaust. One of my mechanics (of 2 my family members used for quite a few years and will not snowball me :) ) replaced both with new (and he told me that a "version 1" of the actuator set had "issues" and that they remade/reconfigured them and now they sell a "version 2" which is better. I am not totally convinced that the intake actuator was not out-of-the-box "bad", But my experience with cars are almost non-existent. Reason: the Check Engine light was off the day it was replaced and a few hours there was no light and all seemed fine... but then it went back on...and STAYED on since. I am pondering whether or not the intake was faulty and the exhaust did not need replacing.

Damaged or stuck valves? Expensive to replace and diagnose?

Also, it was almost time anyway, according to the OLM and overdue for spark plugs (thanks to that other member that responded to my questions)..



By the way, excuse my ignorance, what does LOF mean, please? I do not utilize a lot of acronyms within responding to different forums.

I REALLY DO want to thank you guys for all your help. Really.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
5w20 Mobil one should good. A "LOF" just means Lube Oil Filter. Basically just an oil change. These days there isn't much to "lube" since most vehicles don't have lube points, aka grease zerks, on suspension or steering components anymore at least from the factory. Sorry for any confusion. And in this case I may have "jumped the gun" so to speak because I was thinking of one set of solenoids that are quite common to fail on these engines but in reality what is involved is a different solenoid that doesn't fail a lot. No offence to your tech but this common failure may have fooled your tech as well.
After looking into what parts are involved with this system and from what you just typed I do believe that your mechanic did replace the wrong solenoids. The updated solenoids are for the intake and exhaust camshaft actuators, that control the valve timing by either advancing or retarding the exhaust or intake cams individually.
The issue your car has is for the Intake rocker arm lift control witch is a different solenoid valve. It operates the intake valves only, commands high or low valve lift and is attached to the valve cover just behind the oil filler cap. On rockauto.com it's called a rear oil control solenoid and a Dorman one costs $53.79 as of this typing, an original equipment, OEM, one may be around $100 or so? But your cost may vary. If it happens to be the intake rockers it can get expensive since those are more labor intensive to replace and I do not know the cost of the rockers since rockauto doesn't list them. I would imagine they are very expensive though.

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I asked around the shop and nobody had an Impala 2.5L with this issue. But one did have a Malibu with this issue once and they changed the oil control solenoid and all was well. I would check power and ground at that solenoid, if ok i would change the oil control solenoid valve assembly (people with Honda's would call it a VTec solenoid). More than likely the intake rocker arms are ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I asked around the shop and nobody had an Impala 2.5L with this issue. But one did have a Malibu with this issue once and they changed the oil control solenoid and all was well. I would check power and ground at that solenoid, if ok i would change the oil control solenoid valve assembly (people with Honda's would call it a VTec solenoid). More than likely the intake rocker arms are ok.
Thank You Bart.

It sound like that oil control solenoid is the lesser of two evils?

I have driven my car over the weekend doing my job and my car felt, shifted and drove fine without warrants. However, I do not want things to go further south than than they already are. Just because it is "working" fine now, what will happen if I do not replace or fix the issue right away? Can I still drive it for now? Will it hurt my vehicle if I continue to drive it? I do not want it to stall on me going down the road or ruin my engine further. Plus, I am trying to get the money to pay for it to be fixed...so I need my car to do it...

Cheers!

Sawuwaya



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Just got my 2014 Chevy Impala LS 2.5L out of the shop yet AGAIN, for this same fault error. I changed my oil (it was about due, anyway), my spark plugs, and BOTH the INTAKE and EXHAUST assemblies, not more that 10 minutes that I got my car out of the shop the light is back on again. My mechanics never use anything but OE Spec AC Delco parts. (On a side note: For some strange reason both Rocker Arm Actuators were VERY hard to get...IDK why.) He assures me that it is safe to do my job (I am disabled and this is how I get my income.) as a rideshare driver and that it will not stall, but I really really, really like to solve this dilemma.

I do not want to keep exchanging parts if there is no warrant to do so. Anybody run across this issue beside myself? Short of taking it to an actual GM dealer, which will cost me more money, my mechanic shops that I use are all ASE certified and been in business for 20+ years. What can I try or do?

Thanks...

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There is thousands of people waiting on Rocker Arm. Actuator there is petition trying to get GM to recall it. I need on and there is no estimate of when the part will come in, we were told by the dealership that it was safe to drive, some people have been waiting months for this part.
 

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There is thousands of people waiting on Rocker Arm. Actuator there is petition trying to get GM to recall it. I need on and there is no estimate of when the part will come in, we were told by the dealership that it was safe to drive, some people have been waiting months for this part.
I, too, have been told that my car with the faulty rocker arm oil control valve, is safe to drive, but it sure doesn't feel right. I was told we might have to wait until August (!) for GM to have the part! How can it be safe (not just for me but also for the car) to drive my usual number of miles per month for 7 more months?? My car was under warranty and GM headquarters has not been helpful at all. I am trying to research what others are saying about this dilemma. I don't want to drive it like this (it drives rough and hesitates) and end up with more problems by the time the part comes in many months from now. Does any mechanic know how long before the car will be damaged from driving it in this poor condition?? The following is an excerpt from an article I read online: " the fuel economy is what will be affected the most. Remember if the oil control valve doesn’t manage the flow of oil properly then it will cause the engine to overperform and use up more fuel. This means you’ll be spending more money on gas while causing your exhaust valves to open and close at the wrong time.
Sooner or later, the internal components of your engine will get damaged as a result. That is why it is best to take care of these problems as soon as you notice them happening. It is a lot cheaper to change your oil or replace the oil control valve then it is to replace your engine.
 

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Good news.... gm has issued a special coverage warranty for I know at least 2014 2015 impala's with the 2.5 vvt eng. This coverage N192289160 Just came out June 18 2020... I urge every one with this eng. To check there my gm account and look for it I'm still having issues with an aftermarket part in my car that GM put in with out my authority. Plus if it was repaired they are offering a reimbursement!!!
 
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