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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
:mad:<===my wife.

:frown:<===me.

I can see where the orifice tube is, but how do you get a pair of wrenches in there to change it?

The compressor gave up this past weekend and I got it changed as well as the drier, but I couldn't get to the orifice tube to change, so I figured I'd take my chances and flush out all of the old compressor that I could. To make a long story short.....last night it performed great. After she drove it to work and around town today, she called 9itching because it quit. Once she got it home, I hooked the gauges back up and the high side is 400+ and the low side is <20 psi. Once the high side hits 425, it shuts off the compressor.....leading me to believe that the parts of the old compressor are now located in the orifice tube :eek:

I have searched all over the internet to get a downloadable manual, but to no avail. PLEASE help me figure out how to change the orifice tube.

I've found where it pays 2.2 hours to change it.....is this enough time to drop the motor?

Thanks in advance,

BTW it's 2003 LS w/ 3.8
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Nevermind.....lol :toothy12:

I got it. I can see why it pays 2.2 hours now. What a PITA! I even had to move the ABS. I still wasn't able to remove the complete assembly, but I was able to get a pair of wrenches in there to get the connection loose. As I suspected, the orifice tube was completely stopped up. The new one is in and I'm now pulling a vacuum on it. Next time.....there won't be a "next time".:wink:
 

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yea that sux when u got no advice to go on and u jsut get pissed and do it yourself lol
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I even bought a stinkin' Haynes manual for it today AFTER I talked to three different techs that couldn't give me an answer. I even stopped by the shop closest to my house today and he didn't even have a Chilton's to cover this car. That was $20 wasted....oh well. Maybe the next owner will find it useful......lol
 

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Haynes and Chilton manual will only tell you to take it to a professional shop when it comes to AC and Automatic tranny work.

Now you know why the shop would tell you that it would cost between 150 to 300 dollars to change a simple orifice tube. Manufacturers do not make anything simple anymore.
 

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you can sometimes find the GM Service Manuals on eBay. i got a set last summer and there is nothing that is not covered in detail in those books.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, when I went to fill it with freon last night, the high side was too low and the low side was too high.....GREAT.....I guess the compressor is going back to Auto Zone. Got another new one on this morning and it charged fine and worked great so I take off to the tire dealer to get the tires rotated and balanced before turning it back over to my wife. Well, I started to back out of the shop and smoke started rolling from under the hood. I jump out, open the hood and discover that it's not smoke, but freon coming from the high side port. How in the hell did this happen? I cut off the compressor, roll down the windows and head off to the nearest dealer (and Wally World to get more freon). I got a new high side port and cap (since the old one is now MIA). Now that I'm back home, I hook up the low side gauge. I've got pressure......good. I applied soapy water to the high side valve to see if it's still leaking....no leak (WTF?). I turned on the compressor....still no leak BUT now the drivers side it WARM and the passenger side is COLD.....now I'm really baffled.

I guess I'll do a search and see if you guys have already found a solution to the HOT/COLD issue.
 

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Now the blend door went bad. It is only coincidental that it has now malfunctioned, nothing to do with the orifice tube problem.
 
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