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Discussion Starter #1
I have my 2012 ltz for 1 month now. Best gas milage on a short road trip was 27.8 running 70-75mpg. Ave gas milage is 21.7 mpg, mostly suburbs. Passanger side heated seat isn't working well and one tire has a slow leak. All else seems OK. With 1172 miles on the car my oil is at 76% and onstar tells me that I will need an oil change at 5100 miles.?????
What oil came in the crankcase and is anyone running M-1??
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ha Lugs-like the pink car!!!! Which end of Pa do you live? I'm eastern
 

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The factory fill engine oil is DEXOS. It's a semi-synthetic oil and GM made it a requirement for all GM vehicles from model year 2011 and up, and is recommended for all others.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Lugs, I'm on the Reading side of Allentown. Almost neighbors.LOL
Bart77, I have 4 different brands of oil in my garage and my M1 5-30 was the only one with the Dexos seal, but I'm sure that there are more available.
Thank you both for the advice.
 

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Dexos is the recommended rating for direct injection engines, synthetic or not is not important. Also, the computer doesn't have any idea what is really going on with the oil, it just measures driving conditions and engine hours.
 

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I have my 2012 ltz for 1 month now. Best gas milage on a short road trip was 27.8 running 70-75mpg. Ave gas milage is 21.7 mpg, mostly suburbs. Passanger side heated seat isn't working well and one tire has a slow leak. All else seems OK. With 1172 miles on the car my oil is at 76% and onstar tells me that I will need an oil change at 5100 miles.?????
What oil came in the crankcase and is anyone running M-1??
My '09 LTZ is getting about 21-23 MPG in town, depending on what brand fuel I use. Highway is 23-25 MPG at 80 MPH. This with the 3.9 liter engine and 4 speed automatic. About 32,000 miles on it now. No issues to speak of except a few annoyances. And I too have a slow leak in right front tire lately.
 

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The ECM doesn't care what the oil is. But I have done several front timing cover gasket replacements and timing chain replacements on the 3.6L engines and the ones that use the DEXOS or equivalant oil look like a new engine at 60K+ miles and the ones that use regular dino oil have a lot of sludge and varnish buildup inside. So much so that it flakes off the timing cover when I cleaning the RTV off.
 

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The dealer offered 2 complimentary oil changes, I did the first at 2,000 km and the second at 5,000 km. I would never wait 5,000 miles to do the first oil change.

I will probably use Amsoil Signature 5W-30, Mobil 1 EP 5W-30, or Penzoil Platinum 5W-30. They oils will either meet or claim to meet Dexos.

Right now the car is used mostly for low speed stop and go. My simple rule is to ignore the OLM and change the oil and filter every 3 months or 5,000 km, whichever comes first.
 

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Can anyone tell me why the direct injection engines require Dexos oil? I don't quite get it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the advice. I'm going to do the first oil change at about 3500 miles with M1. After the second change I'll get the oil analized(SP?) and then adjust the change intervales.
I have an appointment next Wednesday to have the passangers seat heater repaired and the tire fixed.
King, I'll ask the dealer about Dexos.
 

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The schools of thought are that direct injection gas engines have way more soot in the oil, along with fuel dilution of the oil, that require an oil that can better handle that sort of use.

The camshafts in the new direct injection motors are overhead cams, with full variable valve timing. The old 3.5 and 3.9 had pushrods so was easier on the oil.

Early reports of timing chain stretch didn't convince me this was a bad motor. It just convinced me that folks with the issue were probably going way too long between oil changes and using a lower quality oil.

There are horror stories of European direct injected gas motors with enough intake valve deposits the motor barely runs and needs to be "professionally" cleaned. Eg: pull intake manifold off. It's thought that lower quality oils with a high degree of ash deposits contribute to this issue.

Consider that in the EU, the direct injected cars that are driving at WOT are generally not having any problems. Those in our typical North American slow speed, idle, short trip cycle are. But cars like the Impala are tested in just those conditions, and if there really was an issue with deposits they should have caught it

There is no EGR system in this motor, just like there is no EGR in my FJ Cruiser. The computer does tricks with the variable valve timing to rebreathe exhaust gasses. It could be the combination of EGR and PCV is allowing oily vapor to get baked onto the intake valves, but that isn't something I'm too concerned about.

Since I have been a synthetic oil convert for +25 years, I will automatically run synthetic oils in every vehicle I have. When you compare the cost of a modern motor, like the 3.6, then even synthetic oil changes every 3 months or 5,000 miles is dirt cheap.

So at the very least, I will keep using a Dexos oil in this car.
 

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I generally don't analyse oil that is from a new motor as it will test high in wear metals anyway. I may start analyzing with the March oil change. I'm very curious how a cold winter, with a lot of remote start use at the malls, and idle time will impact the oil.

If I see sky-high fuel dilution, with a lot of soot, then I will absolutely keep using a full synthetic
 

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Thanks for all the advice. I'm going to do the first oil change at about 3500 miles with M1. After the second change I'll get the oil analized(SP?) and then adjust the change intervales.
I have an appointment next Wednesday to have the passangers seat heater repaired and the tire fixed.
King, I'll ask the dealer about Dexos.
Thanks for the update, dsljay! Please keep us posted on your progress, and please let me know if you have any lingering concerns after your appointment. I'm available via private message through the forum, and I'm happy to contact your dealer at any point to follow up on your behalf.

Best,

Katie
Chevrolet Customer Service
 

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I have always used dino Castrol GTX oil in my cars. My 1999 Mazda 626 had 290,000 miles on the original engine when I did the last timing belt change and pulled off the valve covers. There was not one spec of soot or sludge in that DOHC engine and all cam journals and lobes looked new. I got rid of car at 339,000 miles, with still good running original engine. The oil was changed every 3,000 miles. I did 112 oil changes on that car.

I change oil and filter on the Impala every 3k miles too.
 

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Mobil 1? No way I would stay away from it. I stick with Castrol GTX.

Edit: Do not get a standard oil change at meijer. If you do bring in your own oil. They use quaker state junk
 
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