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Why did you take out the alternator? That isn't necessary.

If the alternator type didn't matter, they wouldn't list two different alternators.

Why did the alternator supposedly fail? What's supposedly wrong with it?

At the rate that you're going, before long you'll have replaced every single part on the car! :(
 

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Discussion Starter #22
It's necessary for me, i don't drive it cause it's not inspected and gotten too many tickets for that, plus it waste alot of fuel to get it going.

I kinda thought something was wrong with it because my car will start up like a normal car and doesn't die after it has been charged. But after that first start it gets difficult again. Also alternator light is on and gauge fluctuates whenever i use blinkers or headlights. i was thinking the regulator.

I dont know why it failed but it didn't pass
 

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Since you don't have the police light bar, siren, radios, and flashing strobes you don't really need the higher amp alternator. You can use the standard one.

Since you live in a emission testing county your car can fail just because the Check Engine lamp is on. Which in this case is possible from the alternator not working. Hope that is all your problem is.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Alright thank you.

The 120 amp police alternator and the 100 amp one are the same price both with a lifetime warranty. Which one should i get? Any perfomance difference? Will too many amps fry anything?
 

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No the higher amp won't fry anything. If installing a high amp stereo and or multiple dvd displays then go with the higher amp alternator.
 

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hey can someone tell me why when i start up my car it idles at 1000rpm, and after a short while it turns off!! but it happens every once in awhile .. I changed my alternator. still does it....
 

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hey can someone tell me why when i start up my car it idles at 1000rpm, and after a short while it turns off!! but it happens every once in awhile .. I changed my alternator. still does it....
I had the same damn problem exept mine idles at 2000 rpm, it's not fixed all the way now but i can get mine to run eventually now by pumping the gas a little while. Did you have any trouble codes? At first i thought mine was a vacuum leak, but it wasnt it. After i changed my fuel pump and retainer i could get it to idle after the engine was warmed up by pumping the gas pedal to keep the engine alive. Also check the fuel filter.
 

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hey can someone tell me why when i start up my car it idles at 1000rpm, and after a short while it turns off!! but it happens every once in awhile .. I changed my alternator. still does it....
What in the world made you think the alt had anything to do with it running like that?

The other thing's could be any number of thing's, how many miles on the car? Has it been taken care of? New fuel filter? ICM's can start to crap out when they get hot. High ldle could be dirty TB, sticky throttle blades, sticky/bad IAC valve, sticky throttle cable, shitty MAF........
 

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Alright thank you.

The 120 amp police alternator and the 100 amp one are the same price both with a lifetime warranty. Which one should i get? Any perfomance difference? Will too many amps fry anything?
A lifetime warranty many times means cheap, made in China, "quality". Beware!

An alternator will only charge at the rate that is needed. If the battery were almost totally drained, then whatever the maximum charge rate of the alternator, (like 120 or 100 amp), will kick in. If the battery is nearly fully charged, it may only charge at 25 amps.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
it's a duralast alternator from autozone ive heard they dont last long but some guy said he's had the same alternator in his car for five years with no problem. and a lifetime warranty don't hurt
 

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it's a duralast alternator from autozone ive heard they dont last long but some guy said he's had the same alternator in his car for five years with no problem. and a lifetime warranty don't hurt
I've been in the automotive repair/parts/maintenance industry for 25+ years and generally if a part needs a lifetime warranty to market it and sell it, it usually is a lower quality part that doesn't last very long. Check to make sure it's not a cheap made in China part, because if it is, you'll probably regret using it.

Check Advance Auto Parts, NAPA and Carquest and see what choices they have. They might be a few dollars more, but in the end you'll probably have a better part that will last longer and not leave you stranded somewhere. Getting into your car, turning the key to start the engine and having nothing happen isn't a very good deal for you and will cost you more money in hassle, tow truck costs and time than it would have just to use the better quality part in the first place.

I hope my 25+ years of experience is of value to you. Good luck with it.
 

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interesting... so i take it the ign.module was ok, did you ever properly reset the timing to tdc. who put the distrib. back in/ could it be a tooth off? has anyone removed the egr and tbi and blew air thru the passage way in the manifold? on my 92 it was rock solid and fail the emission nazi test once fix it passed,btw did you ever replace all of the battery cables, im bad.. i still have the stock ones on after 20 yrs :( (yeah i got new 2 and 4 gauge in the trunk)just waiting for good weather to replace
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I havent tested the ignition module yet, can they do that at the store? I havent done the egr thing yet but i did change it. I put the distributer in twice and it's tdc. And i just changed all the cables and it made no differance
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I tested the alternator again and it failed so i bougt a new one and it doesnt fit in the car, the other one didnt either but i just figured the new one would fit. It's just about 1/2 IN. away from being inline with the top bracket hole just like the old one.

The one i bought was 140 amp and i think thats the cs-144. The bottom of the alternator is hitting the bracket and that's whats causing it to be short, otherwise it would fit. Is there a special bracket i need for this? I can't find one.
 

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Umm, you obviously got the wrong alternator dude. If it doesn't fit in exactly as the old one came out, take it back.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
It IS the same exact one that came out, the problem is that it wasn't in there right either
the guy i bought from said he just put a new one in before i got it. It still had a junkyard tag on it. So i got the same exact one because the other one were completly shaped different and would't come close to lining up.

So i have no clue which one i need or what to do to fit this one in because the other guy fucked up.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
It would have been smart of me to put pictures huh? I guess i know next time. ahaha

The one that was in my car when i bought it was a 140 amp. It didnt fit in there right only one bolt and one bracket was holding it on.

Then it failed and I bought the same amps for my car thinking maybe the other guy just had a different vehicle's alternator in it. But that wasnt the case it was exactly the same... so i returned it and got a 100 amp one which is about half the size aand the bolt holes were in completly different spots. when i went to put it in sue enough it was WAY too small. Then i looked at the mount and the asshole had some kind of conversion kit on it to fit a BIG ASS alt. on it, only it was the wrong one and would't fit any alternator.

I took it off and the small one fit right in. That was very frustrating. the conversion bracket threw me off, and i've never seen under the hood of another caprice. :bang:
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Now somebody told me my exhaust pipe leak can cause my engine to cut off. Is this true or ae they just BSing me? i never included my exhaust leak because i didnt think it would hav anything to do with it.

And the guy said he could go with me to his buddy's exhaust shop to get get dual exhaust for $150 bucks, is this a good deal? or just weld the cracks for $35
 
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