Plug in with your diag tool and see what the ECM and ABS controllers are upset about.

 

Ill take it to the dealership again to get it diagnosed. Sucks i was there 2 months ago and they gave me a long list of things to fix. So ive been doing it myself and left the oil pressure sensor for last since it was the easiest thing to fix and didnt bother me much. It was literally the last thing i had to fix and now im starting all over 😣.

My car shut off on me a few minutes ago on the highway. Said "starting disabled service throttle." Pretty scary i was going 80mph and then it cut off. I turned it off for about 10-15min while i googled for a fix but didnt find anything. Then i tried starting it and it came on just fine and drove it 1hr back home. No problems. Other then the same warning lights.

I feel so dumb.. I was about to disconnect the battery before i started working on the oil sensor but i was like nahh.. Itll be fine, just one connector.. Wont hurt anything.......😢 fml..

 

Check the bolts in the rear manifold, everyone having problems like yours found it loose and when you tighten it back up it fixes all your problems, I found 5 loose ones on mine and solved my problem it is a 10mm bolt

 

These are the codes i got with my cheap scanner.

P0641


P0107


P0449


C0700

 

Looks like you pissed off the PCM & BCM by not disconnecting the battery and accidentally shorting the starter BAT terminal to a ground.
I've seen this kind of multiple random low/high voltage, controller, and sensor codes after installing a new battery.
The voltage dips and sags when I disconnected and reconnected the batteries confused the controllers so they spat out a bunch of garbage.

You have this list of trouble codes so even if you delete them they aren't gone. I'd erase them and take it for a run to see what comes back or leave it alone and take it to someone with a more comprehensive diag tool.

C0700 is a Chassis fault code that's not listed in my 2009 GM W-Body service manuals. I did some Google sleuthing and it was like walking around under the tower of Babel. Lots of unintelligible useless information. This may be complete garbage from a confused EBCM or BCM or a confused diag tool that's not parsing a fault code properly.

These two could easily be from shorting the battery hot at the starter to the engine or transmission.
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0449 Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Vent Solenoid Control Circuit Fault

P0641 is 5-Volt Reference 2 Circuit low code. This is a bit involved so I'll post the service manual page with the table.
All it takes is literally 1/2 second of odd voltage (Open, Hot, or Ground) on the control line from the PCM to the listed sensors to set this code.
Looking at the table you can see that unplugging and plugging the oil pressure sensor into the harness with the battery hooked up could easily set this code.

 

Thanks i actually got a diagram from a youtuber and noticed the 5v is part of the oil pressure sensor.. Now i feel even more dumb. 😅..

Thats alot of information i really appreciate it. I will see what i can do.

 

Forgot to add that my cruise control no longer works. The cruise lights flickers when i push the button. Prior to my mistake it worked fine and i used it regularly.

 

Cruise might not work with a Type A DTC stored in the PCM.
Remote start will not work with a Type A DTC stored...
P0107, P0449, & P0641 are Type A DTC's.

 

Problem solved !!

I believe the problem is the connector itself. (Pictures below).

I endes up putting the connector back on to the old oil pressure sensor. (I cleaned up as best as possible. With contact cleaner.) Took me roughly and hour or more to get the pins on the connector to the sensor to line up. Once i did the car was back to normal. No stc or reduce engine power.

Hopefully cleaning up the connector and sensor fixed the low oil pressure warning. Hope this helps someone out. Ill just leave everything as is since car is running great.

Old on left new on right

Looks like the plastic of the connector got stuck to the inside of the sensor. Or they are 2 different sensors.. Lol.

 

The Gen 8 Impala engine oil pressure sensors used Female Delphi GT150 connectors. BTW: Delphi has become Aptiv...

If you break the plastic connector shell, and that's the only defect, do not cut the wires off.
You can buy a new shell, extract the terminals one at a time, and swap the new connector shell onto your harness with a little patience.
The Delphi Metripak 150 & Delphi GT150 extractor tool is Delphi 12094429. They cost around $10 US. You can use a #00 flat blade precision screwdriver as you can see in the video.
*** EDIT Worst case you can carefully cut the plastic away from the terminals with sharp electronics cutters.
I posted the 2009 Impala GM service manual info on these connectors.
***
Most of the connectors in the Gen 8 Impala are still available.
My local GM dealers have been less than helpful even when I had a part number but GM divested themselves of Delphi.
Every cloud can have a silver lining. Since they are not a GM owned entity anymore Delphi is an aftermarket supplier... and they have zero problems selling to outfits that will sell to us.
If you need to replace the plastic connector shell you can buy a new plastic shell from Mouser Electronics.

According to my 2009 service manuals:
Delphi connector # 15477863 is used on the Engine Oil Pressure sensor in the LZE, LZ4, LGD V6 engines. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/15477863?qs=xyz6lfZ1ktKF6aVQfcEJtA==
Delphi connector # 13512092 is used on the Engine Oil Pressure sensor in the LS4 V8 engines. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/13512092/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlX3nhDDO4AGiasAxAX8NHJyMxQe8L2KM=

If you somehow damage the metal connector terminals you can replace them as well.

This is how you extract and install GT150 terminals. Different connector the same idea. They're explaining how to mod a connector on an STI. Not relevant but the extraction and removal and insertion of the terminals into a different connector is.
Be very careful of the PCA (cover on the terminal end) and the CPA ot TPA (cover on the wire end)... assuming these connector shells have them... not all have them. They may be brittle from a decade of engine heat and cool cycles.
If you break em and the new connector doesn't have them, and needs them, you will have to look up the part numbers and wait for them to arrive.

I looked up the Aptiv datasheet for the V6 EOP connector. URL ----> Aptiv Product
There's a CPA/TPA back cover but no PCA front cover. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aptiv-formerly-Delphi/15452678/?qs=xyz6lfZ1ktKyf2Q3wCdmKw==

 

 

This wiring diagram was posted in 2021, but was helpful to me now in April 2025.

I have a 2011 Impala 3.5 and had to replace oil pan gasket. Bear of a job.

To remove oil pan, must remove oil filter housing, where oil pressure sensor screws in like a spark plug. Took it all apart just fine, but with reassembly could not plug in wiring harness. Turns out I had a few problems. See photo below.

No errors, no issues before this project (other than leaking gasket). Sensor worked fine. Did an oil change a few months ago, and on restart oil light came on for a few seconds while pressure builds up, then light goes out. Sensor worked normal. I am guessing wiring elements were still connected, but plastic all around it basically melted. I guess when I unplugged it, it all fell apart. No wonder I could not plug it in!

Replaced both sensor and plug in harness. Wiring colors on new replacement harness did not match car. But with this diagram I was able to wire it correctly.

Oil pan gasket and filter housing gasket replaced, along with sensor and harness. Upon first start up, oil light on for a few seconds while it built up pressure, then went out. No oil leaks. Successful project completed, in part due to this wiring diagram.

Thank you.

 

Awesome info. This will deff help someone doing this.

I should have checked the sensors more closely when i bought it.

Luckily seems cleaning it did the trick. Have not had a "low oil pressure warning". And before i normally had it everytime i started the car.

Lining up the 3 square pins with the 3 squares on the sensor was an absolute chore.

Btw just wanted to thank everyone.. This has been one of the best forums i have been a part of everyones helpfull and responsive.

 

Awesome info. This will deff help someone doing this.

I should have checked the sensors more closely when i bought it.

Luckily seems cleaning it did the trick. Have not had a "low oil pressure warning". And before i normally had it everytime i started the car.

Lining up the 3 square pins with the 3 squares on the sensor was an absolute chore.

Btw just wanted to thank everyone.. This has been one of the best forums i have been a part of everyones helpfull and responsive.

Looks like the connector shell tip has broken up around the terminals.
A replacement shell will fix that problem should this problem crop up again.
As cheap as the connector shell is I might consider purchasing it and keeping it in the glovebox for that eventuality.

You're welcome to the information but it's really good to see thanks when the help was useful. Thank you...

 

An item that just caught my eye as I paged down to the last post is the RH horizontal pin in the new EOP sensor is bent.
That may be what damaged the brittle EOP connector shell.

 

What symptoms did you have. I have had the Low oil pressure status come on for a bit. Just as you it will sometimes come on in the first mile or 2 a few times accelerating but it will go off, and if I let off the gas, it seems to shut off the warning. I had it in a shop and asked them to change the oil pressure sensor. They could not get the sensor unit out. I then had it in another garage for inspection and asked that mechanic to change it. If he did then it is not the sensor (unfortunately he did not give an itemized parts list and had brakes done, etc) then it quit for a few days and was back. He did state the oil pump was working properly though.

So not sure what to do next, but would like to get rid of it once and for all. Take to the dealer?? Or find a better independent engine mechanic that can once and for all solve this (has been a challenge so far)?

 

If you take it to the dealer be prepared to pay. Lol. The dealer quoted me i believe $480.00 or so ..i remember it was close $500. Lol.. For a $30 sensor And a 10min job at worst. (Not worth it, unless you cant do it yourself.)

. I only had issues because my connector is messed up. If it wasnt for that i would of fixed it just fine. All you need is a 27mm deep socket, and 2 extensions and ratchet. If you have a heat shield then youll also need a 10mm socket which is the same as the battery nuts.

Heres a detailed video i found on how to do it yourself.

But there is a possibility that you will have a problem like i did with the connector. Which if done wrong can open a world of problems. Mainly the reduced engine power and car shutting off.

Oh dont forget to disconnect the battery 😅.

 

My local GM dealer stocks the connector shell. It'll cost $51 for the connector from them. Just checked with my Chevy dealer in Vermont.
Mouser gets $1.80 + $7.99 shipping... $9.79 US total.
Same Delphi part.

I usually order parts like this along with a few electronics parts to make the shipping cost a less shocking part of the total. Compared to GM the price with shipping is quite reasonable.
I keep at least two GM EVAP Vent Valve connectors along with common Metripak Weatherpak, Volvo, Ford, and Chrysler etc shells and an assortment of terminals for them in my auto electric connector bins.
The GM EVAP connectors tend to get broken and leak just like the EOP sensor and other engine sensor plugs.
They break from rough treatment or the polymers break down and get brittle with age or the seals fail after a decade or more in service or some combo of the aforementioned failures.